oxy/acet: purchased!

[Drewmeister]

You only need to open the mapp valve just a tiny bit till you here a little hissing then light it. The flame should always stay connected..meaning no gap between flame and torch tip. If there is a gap then you have too much map flow so just reduce flow till flame is connected. Next open up the Oxy and adjust flame so you have about a 3/8" long inner blue flame. It helps to have the Oxy valve loosened just slighty before starting b/c you will only have one hand available to adjust it. Now with this setting it will braze just about all joints except for those that require a bit more heat. For those you can increase both mapp and oxy together just a tiny bit to get the desired flame.

I wouldn't even try brazing an evap with just one of these though b/c you will go through too much oxy. You should use either a second mapp or do it over a camping stove.

The Bernzomatic Oxy/Mapp kit should come with a spark lighter.

[Teyber]

Originally Posted by Drewmeister

You only need to open the mapp valve just a tiny bit till you here a little hissing then light it. The flame should always stay connected..meaning no gap between flame and torch tip. If there is a gap then you have too much map flow so just reduce flow till flame is connected. Next open up the Oxy and adjust flame so you have about a 3/8" long inner blue flame. It helps to have the Oxy valve loosened just slighty before starting b/c you will only have one hand available to adjust it. Now with this setting it will braze just about all joints except for those that require a bit more heat. For those you can increase both mapp and oxy together just a tiny bit to get the desired flame.

I wouldn't even try brazing an evap with just one of these though b/c you will go through too much oxy. You should use either a second mapp or do it over a camping stove.

The Bernzomatic Oxy/Mapp kit should come with a spark lighter.

ah , well i didn't see anything that would "start" the flame... no spark lighter, ill check again but i didn't find it. thanks for all your help guys!

[Starkiller42]

Here, Teyber, it should look like the item on this page:

http://www.hectorshardware.biz/shop/...29&sku=315249&

The sparker ships with the flint not directly on the friction strip; just pull out the flint holding arm and it will snap in place. Then just squeeze the handle, the flint will scrap across the friction strip, and you'll get a shower of sparks .

[Teyber]

Originally Posted by Starkiller42

Here, Teyber, it should look like the item on this page:

http://www.hectorshardware.biz/shop/...29&sku=315249&

The sparker ships with the flint not directly on the friction strip; just pull out the flint holding arm and it will snap in place. Then just squeeze the handle, the flint will scrap across the friction strip, and you'll get a shower of sparks .

ah i was wondering wtf that is lol. Then whats that thing that looks likea stand for the bottles but isn't big enough?

[Drewmeister]

That stand thing supports the bottles at about a 30 degree angle. Here's a link to the kit. http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomat...rnzoProd100044

[Teyber]

ahhh at the neck of it... got it! thanks man. one last question: When the spark think runs out, can i just buy a new one? man i got some great dice container ideas that should run me under 15$.... can't wait to get this blazin!

[Starkiller42]

Yep! A spark's a spark . Don't worry too much about it, though; they seem to last for quite a few strikes. I musta fiddled with it for 5 minutes just to see the pretty sparks, and there's plenty of material left . And you'll be back at a hardware store well before it dies; you'll be getting oxy tanks .

[Teyber]

k: i got it back up today wiht mapp/oxy instead of just propane. Now very good results XD i could not get the brazing rods to melt! here are some pics, tell me if this says anything!


what do you see about the flame? very little o2 go ing on here.
(excuse the shabby clothes!)
p.s. i know thats a weldign rod, but i tried a copper brazing rod later with no success(or at least i thought it was a brazing rod)

[Drewmeister]

Doesn't appear to be enough O2. You want about a 3/8" long inner blue flame. I might have a pic of it somewhere...brb.

[Teyber]

Originally Posted by Drewmeister

Doesn't appear to be enough O2. You want about a 3/8" long inner blue flame. I might have a pic of it somewhere...brb.

alright thanks! i think somethings fuzzed up with the o2, as i open it a little the sound you want comes, and a lil blue ring shows up, then i open more and no change like 1/2" more. I would think that even a mapp torch would work better then this! btw, i used a lot of mapp messin around today, and hardly any is gone!. Id appreciate the pic mate!

Reed
p.s. i also think my "brazing rods" were just copper weldign rods?


peace

[Drewmeister]

I had too many files to search through so I just started the torch up for a few pics. Basically start torch with the Mapp making sure flame is connected to tip..no gaps. Then adjust O2 till there is approx. a 3/8" long inner blue flame...Done! That setting there will braze all joints quickly except evap. You can intensify the flame some more above this for more heat if needed but shouldn't need much more than this setting. You can even go with a smaller size flame for tight places but be careful and don't let the size of the flame fool you, it can easily melt copper if set wrong.

[Teyber]

ah thanks a million! actually went out to your shop, took a pic, p hotoshoped it! well, i have yet to get that inner blue flame. I will try more oxegen. In the second pic, is the hole flame supposed to be that bluish/white color? Thanks for that. Tomoro i will definatly try to pump more o2 into it!

[Sneil]

Hey Teyber, yea that flame is supposed to be that blue. The brighter the blue the hotter the flame. These torches are extremely finicky with the oxygen valve so it might take some practice to get it just right. And be warned, the O2 runs out faster then you think!

[Drewmeister]

No prob, I figured the pics would explain it the best and I can use them in a brazing guide later on. Yes the flame will be bluish/white with blue inner flame. Total flame length is around 6-8". If you can't get that blue inner flame then it's not getting enough O2.

[Teyber]

Originally Posted by Sneil

Hey Teyber, yea that flame is supposed to be that blue. The brighter the blue the hotter the flame. These torches are extremely finicky with the oxygen valve so it might take some practice to get it just right. And be warned, the O2 runs out faster then you think!

haha thanks! yeah whenever i run to the store with my dad im always throwin in a o2 bottle and like "yeah..." so i have 3 right now. Burned through about 1/3-1/2 of one already they are expensive! 8$ for a lil bottle... found it for 7.15$ at home depot.

Originally Posted by Drewmeister

No prob, I figured the pics would explain it the best and I can use them in a brazing guide later on. Yes the flame will be bluish/white with blue inner flame. Total flame length is around 6-8". If you can't get that blue inner flame then it's not getting enough O2.

sh!t 6-8" i had no clue. Man thanks so much for all your help! If i have little hw tomoro ill be busting it out with pics again.

Additional Comment:

one more question:
durafix: for brazing aluminum, what do you think? its kinda $$$ though...

1) what cheap brazing rods do you guys recomend for buying in small quantities and a rel ativly low melting point so i can skip/go easy on the oxygen?
2) same question but for copper brazing rods instead of aluminum/


thanks a ton guys!
(p.s. yes i checked froogle and ebay...)

[Teyber]

sorry to bring back dead dead dead, yes 2 month old thread. I got it working, i also bought a mapp torch(no oxy) on ebay for cheap to save $ on oxy. Got flux,(which i shouldn't need) and a 1 lb of 15% brazing rods. however, i think im going to switch to oxy/acetylene. I found a great deal on tanks, i think i might buy it. even if i don't, i think i can re-sell the tanks for more then i purchased them for. (i would link but afraid someone will out bid me form the site! fine... its at ebay. Please don't be a jerk lol). Its 50$ for a 20cuft of o2 and 10cuft of acetylene. 28$ to ship. Im good up to 75$, but for what it is i think its a steal. How often do you guys with oxy/acetylene guys need to fill up? how much do they usually charge you?
And for acetylene kits, i was thinking of gettting a cheap one... yeah this is bad, but a not very expensive one and getting nice tips, et cetera. Anybody reject?
thanks.
Reed

Additional Comment:

http://cgi.ebay.com/20-cf-oxygen-and...QQcmdZViewItem
Im seriously considering ordering these... i really shouldn't, i have to much other stuff right now that is a money pit... (need new lathe chuck-100$, need variac: 75$, need refrigerant: 380$...)

But any suggestions appreciated.

[Sneil]

that would have been a very nice buy, hopefully it was you that bought em. to get one of those acetylene bottles here(the gray one) would be $150CAD alone. almost the same in US$.

[Teyber]

Originally Posted by Sneil

that would have been a very nice buy, hopefully it was you that bought em. to get one of those acetylene bottles here(the gray one) would be $150CAD alone. almost the same in US$.

unfortunately i didn't... funds are a little tight right now, have to many other things going. Need to spend 300$ more on lathe, CNC mill which is... well not cheap, refrigeratnt and vac pump. Decided i will buy once i am building more in the future. Thanks for posting though... I will use mapp torch for heating and oxy/mapp together for brazing evaps which should be enough for first couple builds.

thanks mate

Reed

Additional Comment:

found a sweeeet deal. I will be buying this today:
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-CF-Welding-Cy...ayphotohosting
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...TODAY.m238.lVI
and will wait for a nice used acetylene cylinder and problably a cheap kit, like so:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OXYGE...spagenameZWDVW
is it too low of quality? i don't really want to blow a couple hundred bucks on a victor kit... I think if i was doing heavy metal cutting i would, but for brazing this should do the trick i am told.
Also ordering a robinair 15600, but this is the "oxy/______" brazing thread.


Teyber

p.s. is that oxygen bottle a regular welding oxy bottle? will attach to a regular regulator? i wonder why its so cheap?...

Regards


edit: just ordered a 20cuft oxygen tank, and the tank holders! i think i got a good deal on a 10cuft acetylene tank that ends in 23 hours, and will be buying the torch listed above. Any advice appreciated.

reed

[Drewmeister]

Like I mentioned in post #4, first make sure your local welding supply company will even accept your bottles for refill... most won't. If it's a used bottle then make sure it is still within the 10 year hydro-test qualification period b/c if not then I strongly doubt any supplier will touch it. We pay about $25/250 cf oxy, $38-$40/130 cf acety and $25/250cf Argon. You really only need oxy/acety for heavy stuff, the rest use mapp or oxy/mapp so the smaller 20/10cf setup will last you longer. The torch kit looks fine.

[Teyber]

Originally Posted by Drewmeister

Like I mentioned in post #4, first make sure your local welding supply company will even accept your bottles for refill... most won't. If it's a used bottle then make sure it is still within the 10 year hydro-test qualification period b/c if not then I strongly doubt any supplier will touch it. We pay about $25/250 cf oxy, $38-$40/130 cf acety and $25/250cf Argon. You really only need oxy/acety for heavy stuff, the rest use mapp or oxy/mapp so the smaller 20/10cf setup will last you longer. The torch kit looks fine.

oops... sorry to miss that.
Here is some info on my oxy tank:
http://i22.ebayimg.com/08/i/000/cb/a9/7d74_1.JPG
i hear a star means 10 years... so that DOT certification might be up? i will call my local airgas and see if they will swap it. Please tell me your prices are for renting? and will 20/10cuft be way to small? for average use, how long would it last? i mean average use like not using every day...

Thanks for reply. I will buy a newer acetylene, and if they won't touch this oxy ill re-sell it on ebay and buy a new one. Thanks for reply mate.


Regards

Additional Comment:

i found this dot # on a tank i am thinking of getting, of acetylene.
DOT-8AL 07M4111 95 10CF TW 6-13 K46581 ZEAO
does that tell you anything?

Additional Comment:

Called up my local airgas today. They said they swap bottles not purchased from them. I bet they still might say they can't, but there is one person there who is very friendly to me. They know i'm just a kid and they give me some huge deals because they said they respect what i do. Here is my price list so far, not including shipping:
oxygen: 20cuft: 25$
acetylene: 10cuft: 28$
"tote kit" tank holder: 35$
will buy soon: hairris oxygen acetylene torch kit.

Bought the acetylene today. im super stoked. Ill update with pickies once i get all the stuff.


Regards,

Reed

edit: hairris torch purchased!
http://www.amazon.com/Harris-Oxygen-...8125254&sr=8-3