Watercooling

[Mals14]

Originally Posted by musicfan

Sorry to hear about the compatibility issue. Not many manufacturers make non-reference VGA water-blocks. From your links, it is clear the ASUS is not reference (under the specs) while the Heatkiller you linked to is for reference.

I can't imagine doing this project without the support from you guys in the forum. So thank you all! I just have to be more thorough to avoid compatibility issues.

Originally Posted by musicfan

I checked the Koolance Wizard and the EK Cooling Configurator wizard. EK makes this model for the non-reference ASUS. You would probably want a backplate too. I saw nothing else at FrozenCPU or the Heatkiller (Watercool.de) site or the Danger Den site either.

That is probably what I will have to purchase.

Originally Posted by musicfan

Otherwise, you can sell the ASUS gtx 680's to someone who wants to air-cool and get reference 680's. You might talk to the vendors. Not sure the ASUS would still be under warranty if dissembled. But the Heatkillers should be and could they be returned?

It seems my 30day window for returns to NewEgg is closed. So I will probably keep the cards and get the EK block. I have emailed Watercool to return the HEATKILLERs.

Originally Posted by musicfan

Also am not sure you can live with the EK design so check that out.

What do you mean? Will it be harder to watercool?

Originally Posted by musicfan

EK's new VGA block is unusual with two ports in front. The more typical is on top like the Heatkiller with front & back ports. So to SLI, you would likely want to email EK because the style is new. I am not sure what bridges to recommend for example.

Perhaps others will have better ideas. Hang in there.

In the product description it says you can connect up to 4 water blocks and a bridge/link is included...

[apw63]

I read you plan on ordering a SLI water cooling bridge. One thing you need to check is the PCI-E slot spacing. The RE4 16x PCI-E slots are 1 and 4. To run your cards at 16x they need to be in those slots. I got this info from the RE4 user manual page 2-16. Its the same as my RE3. Just some thing to look at before you buy a bridge.

Andy

[Mals14]

Originally Posted by apw63

I read you plan on ordering a SLI water cooling bridge. One thing you need to check is the PCI-E slot spacing. The RE4 16x PCI-E slots are 1 and 4. To run your cards at 16x they need to be in those slots. I got this info from the RE4 user manual page 2-16. Its the same as my RE3. Just some thing to look at before you buy a bridge.

Andy

Yup, that's the plan but EK doesn't seem to have a bridge that can connect the VGA waterblocks in PCIe 1 & 4 slots. They are about 80.2mm apart. I saw a bridge for 60mm and 40mm.

Additional Comment:

Great news, I emailed Christian with Watercool and they will let me return the HEATKILLERS. Their service and support is great.

Now to see if the EK blocks will fit my mobo or I guess I can do a 3 way SLI and buy a 3rd GTX 680. I think I can use PCIe slot #'s 1,2,4 for the 3way and EK has the bridge for those lengths.

[apw63]

Which EK bridge are you looking at using, can you link?

Andy

[Mals14]

Originally Posted by apw63

Which EK bridge are you looking at using, can you link?

Andy

EK FC Bridge CSQ or EK FC Bridge. I emailed EK to find out which one would be compatible with this VGA waterblock.

[apw63]

That one looks like it will work. I would still messure PCIe slot distance just to be sure. The only other thing I would do is write frozenCPU and ask them if this is a misprint.

"EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Serial CSQ is a high quality interconnect for connecting two (2) EK Full-Cover waterblocks in a single, sturdy unit. Connecting multiple graphics cards FC water blocks with akward fittings and tubing is a thing of a past!"

I copied and passed that from the link you provided. On EKs web site it says "for connecting three(3) EK Full-Cover waterblocks"

Andy

[Mals14]

I just spoke with Joe at FrozenCPU. He recommended, for a 2way SLI, I use this triple bridge and block the middle ports (unused) with a blank.

Additional Comment:

Update: this week I received most of my parts (EK GPU waterblocks and mdpc-x sleeving mats). I sleeved 9 fans and installed the waterblocks on the video cards. I was trying to setup the top 120.3 rad but I ordered the wrong size of screws!!! Ah well, just ordered the replacement screws.

Side note: installing the top 120.3 rad with 3 pull fans and lining it up correctly for the screws is a pain...anyone have any tricks? The fans I'm using require the screws to go all the way through from one end to the other.

[musicfan]

Originally Posted by Mals14

installing the top 120.3 rad with 3 pull fans and lining it up correctly for the screws is a pain...anyone have any tricks? The fans I'm using require the screws to go all the way through from one end to the other.

Yes, I think those are what are referred to as "close-ended" fans but it was hard to get the best view.

Anyway, what I did was (without water in anything), lie the case on it's side and put the radiator in that way. Gravity is not working against us so bad then. You can even turn the case upside down if that will help. The angles are not always perfect but you only need a few turns to secure the rad. When you start to thread one corner, go to the opposite corner and start to thread that. After all 4 are threaded you can carefully screw down. Just try to figure out how to get gravity on your side and make sure you don't thread too far because there are water-tubes under there.

Good luck.

[apw63]

Originally Posted by Mals14

Side note: installing the top 120.3 rad with 3 pull fans and lining it up correctly for the screws is a pain...anyone have any tricks? The fans I'm using require the screws to go all the way through from one end to the other.

With The RAD and fans outside of the case, place fans on RAD in the desired configuration. Put 2 screws in each fan to orient fans to RAD holes. Now on the outside edge of the RAD run a strip of duct tape along RAD and fans to hold orientation, remove screws. Now you should be able to place RAD and fans up in to case, manageing the RAD and fans should be easier. Use a small piece of wire if you have to help line up holes. Once RAD is secured pull off tape.

Andy

[Mals14]

Trying to figure out where to place the pump, pump heatsink and reservoir. Seems like there is no space...any ideas? Only option it seems is as seen in apw63's build. And I will have to remove that lower intake fan. If I do place it there, how would I secure it in place?

[apw63]

Mals,

If I remember correctly you are cutting the bottom HDD cage out. If it was me I would first look at placing the pump over the internal fan. I had my pumps setting in that location, before I moved them to the lower PSU section. I do not beloeve you will have room to put the pumps in the lower section with a 240mm RAD mod. I would ditch the swiftech REZ and go with something like a EK-MultiOption RES X2 - 150 Advanced or EK-MultiOption RES X2 - 100 Basic. Either of these can easily be mounted to the back wall. There are a ton of examples out on the web. My REZ is the 250mm version and I wish I would have gone smaller. The 150mm will give you 8 differant ports to play with.

You can always make cardboard cut outs of your components and tape them around in differant location with in the case. That will give you a better idea of placement.

Andy

[Mals14]

So, I started the leak test tonight. An hour in and no leaks so far (fingers crossed). I decided to use my original reservoir and pump. I just placed them at the spot of the lower intake fan. Unfortunately I had to remove that fan. I think it will be ok without it. I just reversed the rear exhaust fan.

[musicfan]

Leak test go OK?

[Mals14]

Hey, yes went well. I stopped about 2 hrs ago. The reservoir has a lot of water disturbance and thus bubbles with both pumps running. I guess with PWM it will be less. I did about 16hrs worth of leak testing and no leaks. Now I'm plugging everything in and will turn the system on soon. I just need to sort out where to plug in the pump on the mobo and the fan splitter discussed before.

Additional Comment:

Computer is up and running!!! Now trying to figure out how to control pump speed as both are running at max.

[apw63]

Did you turn on Q-Fan control in the BIOS?. In the BIOS on the monitor tab set the Fan Speed Control to Enabled. Set the CPU Q-Fan Profile to Standard (there is also Chassis Q-fan Control, set to standard also). This should give you a middle of the boat response curve. You can play with manual mode later. If you have done this already and fans are still full speed, what fan header is the pumps plugged in to? What is your CPU temp at idle?

Let me know if that helps? We will get it figured out.

Andy

[Mals14]

Q fan control is on and I set the profiles to standard. As far as mobo connections, I connected one fan (top rad) to CPU Fan header. Then I connected five fans via splitter to the CHA Fan 1 header. One of the pumps is connected to CHA Fan 2. The other pump goes to CHA Fan 3.

Of note, the CPU Fan header-fan speed is at minimum (<1000 rpms). CPU temp at idle is 26deg.

[apw63]

Are you pumps and fans still running at full speed? I don’t know what instructions came with the MCP35X2. One of the pumps should be the master and one the slave. The pumps should not be plugged in to different fan headers. If it was me the pumps would be plugged in to the CPU fan header with this PWM Splitter cable. You can daisy-chain that splitter for your fans. I would try to run all the RAD fans off either the CPU optional header or one of the case fan headers. I will have to look at the manual to see what controls the CPU opt header.

On my setup I have the 6 PWM RAD fans all plugged in to the CPU header. One of the fans is master to the 5 others. The slaves all respond as the master does.

You got any pictures of the setup as it stands now?

Andy

[Mals14]

I did find the instructions and the splitter cable for the 2 pumps. You are right, I need to use that and connect the 4-pin to CPU fan header and the 3-pin to any mobo 3-pin header. I just did that. Now for the fans...i have them on the 5 way splitter as above. Are you saying that I should link this 5 way splitter to the pump splitter ?

Of note, the first 3 header I mentioned in my previous post were selected based on my mobo manual. Those 3 connectors support the ASUS FAN Expert feature.

Additional Comment:

I did connect the pumps to the CPU header and they are now controlled. Now to figure out where to connect all the fans. I'll get pictures up as soon as I can.

Additional Comment:

Originally Posted by apw63

On my setup I have the 6 PWM RAD fans all plugged in to the CPU header. One of the fans is master to the 5 others. The slaves all respond as the master does.

This means you have the pumps with the 6 rad fans on the CPU Header?

Additional Comment:

Here's a link to all my build photos. http://imageshack.us/g/19/computer387.jpg/

Included are a few pics of the bios after making some changes. Pumps are connected to CPU Header via the pump splitter. Rad fans are connected to CPU Opt header via 5-way splitter. Couple of rad fans and chassis fans are connected to CHA Fan header. Pump and fan speeds are better. But the AP141 chasis fan attached to CHA Fan header is still at max speed I fear. I will work on that.

[musicfan]

Great pics. Thanks. Very nice build.