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Old 03-07-2013, 10:07 AM   #41
ORL
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Yep get that ECC turned off bud! Also I suggest you stop everything your doing and stop comparing this board to your old one.

Start over. Work your CPU up first and keep dividers low so nothing can max before it does. Then work up each component from there reducing the last tested to below stock for stability.

It seems like it will take more time but in reality without getting insanely lucky it actually takes less time. never attack it from the perspective of my last MB did this.

Additional Comment:

Quote:
Originally Posted by CssOrkinman View Post
It stands to reason that you should be able to do better on those boards than the GD-65 , they are a lot more expensive ( $50- $150). Those are the best you can buy, however the MSI 990FXA GD-80V2 will keep up with them in everything short of extreme cooling.
Shoulda tried that 1075T on a 790FX GD-70 http://valid.canardpc.com/2708623 - my 1045T on water
Looks like you had a hella 1045 mate. Keep it up. Im not saying all other boards are crap just that from the ones I have tested the listed are my best experiences. I do however have a serious gripe with my MSI boards and the FX8XXX series chips. They tend to give up the ghost when your start pushing serious clocks and voltages.

Last edited by ORL : 03-07-2013 at 10:07 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:24 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ORL View Post
Yep get that ECC turned off bud! Also I suggest you stop everything your doing and stop comparing this board to your old one.

Start over. Work your CPU up first and keep dividers low so nothing can max before it does. Then work up each component from there reducing the last tested to below stock for stability.

It seems like it will take more time but in reality without getting insanely lucky it actually takes less time. never attack it from the perspective of my last MB did this.

Additional Comment:



Looks like you had a hella 1045 mate. Keep it up. Im not saying all other boards are crap just that from the ones I have tested the listed are my best experiences. I do however have a serious gripe with my MSI boards and the FX8XXX series chips. They tend to give up the ghost when your start pushing serious clocks and voltages.
The AMD MSI boards other than the 990fxa GD80V2 shouldn't be considered for use in overclocking the 8 core FX's in my opinion. They just aren't equipped with the necessary things to push such a demanding chip. That is reflected in the price however and people shouldn't be too disappointed if they can't keep up with the significantly more expensive boards.
The lack of LLC on msi boards requires the user to have a good understanding of Vdroop and how to compensate for it. Takes a little finesse to get the most out of them.
I've managed to push an FX 8350 to wprime stable speeds of 5.5ghz + on 1.72 volts (.07volts vdroop at 100% load on 8 cores so 1.65V effectively) with my GD-80 on water. I think the board will do about anything you ask of it short of extreme cooling.

Mr. Scott brought up a good point earlier about Voltages and the only way to get an accurate measurement is with a DMM. I've seen a few reviews out there that have some motherboards under reporting Vcore by as much as .07 volts

As for my 1045, its a dandy, but the last 6 or so AMD's I've bought have all been great clockers. I think they were binning them for higher models but didn't sell them as such because they would hurt the bulldozer sales.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:37 PM   #43
chartiet
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Gotcha. I was only comparing the ease at which my last board got to a stable 4.0GHz with less settings to adjust, is all. By no means am I thinking or operating under the assumption my last board worked at these settings, so this one should.

OK. Starting from scratch, I’ll load default values, then set required settings to manual at stock multi’s and voltages.

Please check ALL my settings and let me know what they should be at in lieu of auto, to start over. Mainly the digi + power control settings and CPU & PCIe Spread Spectrum, etc.

CPU Spread Spectrum = Auto
PCIE Spread Spectrum = Auto
EPU Power Saving Mode = Disabled

Digi+ Power Control
CPU LLC = Extreme (0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, 100%)
CPU/NB LLC = Auto (Auto, Regular, High, Extreme)
CPU CC = 100% (Auto, 100%, 110%, 120%, 130%, 140%)
CPU/NB CC = 100% (Auto, 100%, 110%, 120%, 130%)
CPU PPC = Extreme (Standard, Optimized, Extreme, Manual Adjustment = Ultra Fast, Fast, Medium, Regular)
CPU VF = Auto (Auto, Manual)
CPU PDC = T. Probe (T. Probe, Extreme/C. Probe)
CPU PRC = Regular (Auto, Regular, Medium, Fast, Ultra Fast)
CPU/NB = Regular (Auto, Regular, Medium, Fast, Ultra Fast)
CPU PTC = 130 (130 – 151)
DRAM CC = 100% (100%, 110%, 120%, 130%)
DRAM VF = 300K (300K, 350K, 400K, 450K, 500K)
DRAM PPC = Optimized (Optimized, Extreme)
Under CPU Config. – Enhanced Power Down = Auto (Disable?)

Also, please double check settings in Advanced\CPU Config. and Advanced\NB\Mem. Config.

All these settings are shown in posts #31 and #32.

Anything else is missed? Some items when set to manual open up a bunch more manual adjustments, in both Digi+ Power Control and for example

Without going back and reading my cheat sheet again. In what order should I oc CPU and RAM? CPU first, then RAM? RAM, then CPU? When does CPU/NB freq oc come into play? Does the CPU, CPU/NB, NB, or DRAM voltage help the CPU/NB freq? Etc.

Can I oc RAM up to max and test with memtest until it passes, then move onto CPU and CPU/NB freq?

Lastly, how long should I Prime95 before I move up? 2 hrs +?

Thank You
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:22 AM   #44
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personally i overclock the cpu first, usually with multi only on a black edition which will keep the reast of the system stock. here i set the ram either to manufacturer's recommended timings and voltage for stock speed one below its advertised top speed. say if i have 1600 mhz ram, i set it for 1333 to make sure if i do end up playing with the FSB, i don't have to worry about what the ram is doing.
if i find the multi-only max for the cpu, i then might start playing with the FSB to see if i can get a few more mhz out of it without sacrificing too much more voltage and heat.
then i usually head for the CPU/NB.....and find the best combo of settings between its max and the cpu max. this often involves reducing the cpu multi by a half or whole step and upping the FSB to get more out of the CPU/NB.
at this point i look at where the RAM may be sitting and then have to make all three work with what i have so far, and if there is an FSB overclock of a significant amount which may put me in between multipliers, i then start crunching numbers to fund the right settings to make all three work near their max.
in general, i don't get into RAM overclocking too much. i don't find it to be all that much fun for benching, and in everyday use, i am more concerned with getting as much as i can from the CPU/NB.
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:06 PM   #45
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Rite now I'm 15 hours stable at 4.2HHz, temps well within range. Only changes from stock (first 2 pics) were CPU V = 1.406250 and CPU LLC up to "Ultra High - 75%". RAM is still at 1.5v, 9-9-9-25-40-2T. CPU/NB = 2000MHz, HTT = 2000MHz. I was getting vdrop to stable 1.380v and was un-stable, then up'd CPU LLC to 1.404v (showing in cpuz, bios at 1.406250v), and was fine.

Next steps? In which order?
1) Play with FSB or tighten RAM at 1600?
2) Up CPU/NB Freq.?

Thanks
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:30 PM   #46
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CPU first. Ram and NB frequency are always secondary.

Steve and I use very similar methods when OC'ing.
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:33 PM   #47
chartiet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Scott View Post
CPU first. Ram and NB frequency are always secondary.
should i keep upping cpu freq. and voltage until high temps or unstable? or stay at 4.2?

or move onto ram/cpu/nb?

1) RAM?
2) CPU/NB?
3) FSB?
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:37 PM   #48
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Depends on what you want to achieve. Personally, 4.2 is a really good 24/7 OC. Even if you get to 4.4-4.5 you'll not see enough return for the voltage/heat that you'll incur.

On your list:

1) FSB (if you so choose)
2) NB frequency
3) Ram (speed and timings)
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:42 PM   #49
chartiet
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I agree, 4.2 is good. But do see, voltage is still low and my temps at full load are approx. 47 - 50c. Id almost move onto nb freq and ram, then fsb if all else gets good and stable, temps in order.

Do CPU/NB and RAM oc go hand in hand? Or can I play with one or the other with no effect on the other? I understand it as;

1) more FSB means more cpu voltage/heat only
2) more nb freq means more cpu/nb voltage only, not more ram v
3) more ram means more ram v only

also, i dont think my ram is rated for more than 1600. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231193

Thanks
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:57 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chartiet View Post
I agree, 4.2 is good. But do see, voltage is still low and my temps at full load are approx. 47 - 50c. Id almost move onto nb freq and ram, then fsb if all else gets good and stable, temps in order.

Do CPU/NB and RAM oc go hand in hand? Or can I play with one or the other with no effect on the other? I understand it as;

1) more FSB means more cpu voltage/heat only
2) more nb freq means more cpu/nb voltage only, not more ram v
3) more ram means more ram v only

also, i dont think my ram is rated for more than 1600. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231193

Thanks
FSB is part of CPU clocking. That goes first if you intend on doing it. It directly affects both the ram and NB frequency.
NB frequency means more CPU/NB volts which also means more heat for the CPU, as the IMC is on die.
Ram speed, timings, and volts are their own separate thing. None of this will affect your CPU OC at all. These should be done last.

Your ram will still OC.
All ram will to an extent. Some just don't OC so good.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:52 AM   #51
chartiet
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how about I move onto fsb next, say 205 - 210 max? then nb freq next, upping to 2200, 2400, 2600, 2800 max, those 2 would require bumps in cpu/nb and cpu voltage only?

or just do nb freq and up cpu v and cpu/nb v until stable?

then ram?

Additional Comment:

03/11/2013 - Latest and greatest as of Monday morning: Upped NB Freq. to 2200MHz, failed Prime95 after 10 min. Only upped CPU/NB voltage manually to 1.25v from "Auto" (which was was 1.0v to 1.25v) and ran Prime through the night and no failures... so Ill raise her up to 2400MHz tonight, run stability and see what happens. Temps still fine. CPU V still at 1.40625v/1.404v cpuz.

03/12/2013 - At above settings (2400MHz, CPU = 1.406, PU/NB = 1.25v), ran prime and had a restart. Upped only CPU/NB LLC up to "Extreme", ran through the night and this morning, had a "Program has stopped working in Windows" screen with above settings (2400MHz, CPU = 1.406, CPU/NB = 1.25v, CPU/NB LLC = Extreme). I have now raised CPU/NB voltage (only) to 1.25625v and am now running at home while I'm at work today. We will see what happened when I get home this evening.

Edit: Wife called after I left for work... after 1.5 hours of Prime, worker #3 failed. More CPU Voltage? More CPU/NB voltage?

Last edited by chartiet : 03-12-2013 at 10:52 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:22 PM   #52
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Worker failure is CPU clock related or heat related, not NB frequency related.
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:12 PM   #53
chartiet
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It couldn’t be heat because I’m rite at 49c to 50c under full load. It must be CPU voltage (seems pretty low for the freq. I’m running at). I’ll back down the CPU/NB V and CPU/NB LLC and bump up the CPU V one step. That would put the following at;

CPU V = 1.406250 + 0.006250 = 1.412500
CPU/NB V = “Auto” or “Manual” = 1.256v? 1.0v? Refer to question below.
CPU LLC = still at “Ultra High” = 75%
CPU/NB LLC = down to “High” from “Extreme”

Question: What is the stock CPU/NB voltage? 1.0v? Or better yet, what would a safe value be for getting back to stability where I’m at now? Before my jump to 2400MHz, at 2200MHz it was at “Auto” = 1.25v. Thanks
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:05 PM   #54
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Stock CPU/NB volts is usually between 1.1 and 1.2v pending type of CPU. IMO safe 24/7 voltage is 1.35v max. Benching is a different story.
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:26 PM   #55
chartiet
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no that its a big deal... but any cpu/nb voltage over say 1.3 in bios is pink or red... without it at my finger tips, just playing with the +/- on the setting, it wouldn't go higher than 1.35v and it was red, next step down and it turned pink, then yellow, then normal color.

Ill adjust cpu/nb voltage down to 1.2v and raise it as needed with increases in nb freq.

CPU V = 1.412500v
CPU/NB V = “Manual” = 1.20v - 1.256v
CPU LLC = “Ultra High” = 75%
CPU/NB LLC = “High”
NB Freq. = 2400MHz
etc.

Ill run stability when I get home in an hour. Thanks
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:57 PM   #56
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the color change just tells you that you are beyond manufacturer recommended settings. i suppose they do that to warn some people, and to cover their butts because they know people overclock, they encourage it by making enthusiast boards, but they still have to say overclocking is bad so they don't get unwarranted warranty claims.

ignore the colors.

its the same on dramV... these sticks i have now ar 1.9V sticks, which is unheard of in ddr3 now. all of the boards are for 1.5V... if i paid attention to those, these sticks would never run.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:07 PM   #57
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Gotcha! More prime95 tonight, i think im good at 2600 mhz but over night windows dl updates and restarted on me :-(
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:42 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chartiet View Post
Gotcha! More prime95 tonight, i think im good at 2600 mhz but over night windows dl updates and restarted on me :-(
bastards!
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:16 PM   #59
chartiet
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My fault, shoulda disabled... Lol

Additional Comment:

Got through prime last night, lookin good at 4.2GHz, NB Freq. @ 2600. Temps are just over 50c ul, usually average about 48c. I will install my Swiftech H220 tonight (that arrived today from FrozenCPU) and see how it cools Then tighten up RAM.

Then I can move my H80i back over to my other 4.0GHz rig...

Last edited by chartiet : 03-14-2013 at 12:19 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 03-14-2013, 02:26 PM   #60
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Lookin' sweet.
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