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Old 09-03-2012, 12:28 AM   #1
Sparkey247
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My First SS unit

First and fore most:
I want to thank Drewmeister, he really took me to school on the fundamentals and then some about how to make one of these bad azz mofo's.

I have Liquid cooled everything I own weather it be straight liquid cooling, or chilled. I have played with DICE and LN2 and thought it might be time to try out SS.

I obtained a 6000 btu R22 A/C unit from my sister when her and her husband moved (free is an awesome price)

so i did what any red blooded American would do, the light bulb above my head lit up and i said less build an SS unit mwahahahahaha.

I had a basic understanding of a/c systems, I am ASE certified in heating and a/c.

So i contacted Drew and he happened to have a lot of the stuff i needed to get me going.

he sold me a Kayl evap and told me how to go about making a cap in cap evap.

so as i was building this i took pictures and decided to share with you guys my en-devour.

with either the cap in cap evap or the Kayl evap i was in need of some sort of hold down device

I work at a suspension shop we replace, rebuild, and modify just about any vehicle on the road and off the road

so naturally we have a lot of spring steel laying around and shims that go in between leaf springs


the shim came from a ford spring i believe and i used a Thermaltake hold down for a template.
then i used a 2" cap to make the center hole
first rough cut was with an acetylene torch our shop uses map torches but in my front end pit i require an acetylene torch because map heat not only what your heating but what ever is behind it, where as Acetylene is more direct and hotter. the plate now is a 1/4 inch thick.
the plate after hours of die grinding and more hours at the grinder it self


Additional Comment:

after hours of grinding and drilling and painting and stamping my name into it i was done with the hold down plate



Additional Comment:

next up would be the evaporator, i originally thought that for my first unit i would use the cap in cap evap and later changed my mind and went with the Kayl evap that i bought from Drew. how ever i still made the cap in cap evap so, 1. i could say i made one, and 2 in case i build a second unit

I used 3 caps, drilled on top and one hole on the side of each



Additional Comment:

now to start Brazing. Brazing was new to me i have welded countless things and soldered more than i have welded. Luckly Drew schooled me on that too.

Drew also sold me a copper plate, after practicing brazing a little but i started on the assembly of the evap. after brazing on the first (smallest cap) i immediately ran into a dilemma. how was i going to suspend the capillary tube sleve inside the smallest cap so that i could braze it to the cap, to give it some rigidity while i brazed the remaining two caps, to the plate so i came up with this idea i used a cotter pin that was spread a little bit and made the suction tube kinda float. which in turn let me braze the capillary tube sleeve to the first then second and finally the third cap, the side holes in each cap are 180 degrees from the last.


Additional Comment:

the cap in cap evap finished, this is where i decided to use the Kayl evap so i had to later un braze the fitting at the top of the suction line and braze it to the Kayl evap. int eh picture you can see the tube in the center, it acts as a sleeve for the capillary tube a coupling if you will

Last edited by Sparkey247; 09-03-2012 at 12:28 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:03 AM   #2
Sparkey247
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so now i had to braze together the Kayl block in this picture you can see the tube that you seen on the cap in cap evap already on the capillary tube. first i brazed the lil tube to the capillary tube (after measuring its dept inside the evap so it would not bottom out) this also made the joint where the capillary tube enters the evap a lot more rigid.


Additional Comment:

here is the sleeve brazed onto the block and then int eh next picture the cap tube and suction line brazed on.


Additional Comment:



Additional Comment:

the cap tube now has a second sleeve that acts as a coupler to the rest of the cap tube.

Next it was time to recover the R22 out of the A/C unit and again Drew sold me a Piercing valve that bolts to the unit and lets you make recovery port.
to do the actual recovery well i was not about to go out and spend tons of money on a recovery unit and the near by A/C guys thought i was crazy so, drew again took me to school. a gas in a confined area would much rather move into an area that is less confined so i used a jug (2 of them) that had a slight charge in the so that i could bleed the air out of the line and opened the piercing valve just enough to let the R22 start to bleed into the tank.


Additional Comment:

after about 6 hours of bleeding the R22 into two tanks, about 90 to 95% percent guestimate is how much i recovered, it was time to get to work ont eh MODDING i started by using a tubing cutter to get teh original evap coil off
then i cut off the original high side crimp and got rig of the original CAP tube (brazed hole shut) now i had a place to put the dryer
i used a piece of bigger tubing that fit the unit well but was too big for the tube at the bottom of the dryer so using a pair of pliers i made a crimp now the dryer tube would fit snugly so that i could braze it easily
after brazing the dryer to the unit i crimped the second side of the dryer around the cap tube (8ft) and brazed it as well. taking out the valve so that air could escape as i was heating it
next it was time to braze the flex line to the suction side of the unit, i first brazed the steel flex line to a piece of tubbing that fit snugly over teh suction line and then brazed it the whole thing to the suction line on the unit. brazing the steel line to the copper tube was a challange but a lot of cleaning and plenty of flux made it happen
now i had to make a low side charge port and the port was prebrazed so i had to use another piece of tube to make a reducer and brazed the whole thing to the unit


Additional Comment:

now it was time to wrap the cap tube around the steel suction line, i had to double back a few inches to get all 8 ft of the cap tube to fit the 40 somthing inches of steel suction line

Last edited by Sparkey247; 09-03-2012 at 01:03 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:26 AM   #3
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the second plate fits under the first plate i made this was i would have some wiggle room when it came down to mounting it to a mobo.

next i spread some gas line sealer onto the threads of the coupler on the evap
and screwed it onto the suction line and brazed the cap tube into the sleeve i had made earlier on the evap.

then i tightly started to wrap electrical tape around it. The next few chain of events caused me to loose all the R22 i had recovered
the manifold gauge set i have is really meant for cars with R-134a but if you unscrew the automotive quick connectors the lines fit the ports on teh unit like a glove.
little did i realize that the lines were reversed between the gauge set and the unit, on one end of the lines there is a nipple that pushed on the valve when you connect it to something on the second end there is just a tube and fitting. so of course it held a vacuum for 6 hours. i later went to fill it and used a different tube this time hooking it up the right way and proceeded to try and fill the unit. the unit sucked down both tanks and the evap got cold. so i was like cool beans i shut it down and went into the house for some grub. when i got back out the gas fitting let all the R22 leak out so it was back to the drawing board

Additional Comment:

i decided to eliminate the gas fitting and braze the suction line directly to the evap, how ever when i heated it up i plugged the cap tube. so i made an extra long coupler for the cap tube. then to make sure i first pulled a vacuum on the low side and felt for suction at the high side SUCCESS. now it was time to pull a vacuum on the whole shabang. and see if it would hold again success


Additional Comment:

after two weeks of waiting for the Enviro safe R22 alternative to arrive it held a vacuum the hole time. in this time i had also realized through readin that Enviro safe is a blend of Propane and Butane my eyes rolled to the back of my head popped out kicked me in the *** and said WTF.

so i decided to use it for testing. after putting neoprene on the low side to try and keep the condensation at bay, i was rewarded with an evap that was nicely frosting over.


Additional Comment:


Last edited by Sparkey247; 09-03-2012 at 01:26 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:33 AM   #4
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Additional Comment:

i currently have the unit hooked to my socket 370 bench rig and am under charged (70 psi) on the high side and am able to get down to -22C depending on ambient temp at the evap.

keeping and eye out for some R22 gonna give it a few weeks and if i have no luck might jump on a jug of 507.

its been a blast and im getting some mad oc's even at -22c and again
special thanks to DREW for helping me out. i will take more pictures and post them as this is an on going project. i just bought a unit at the local good will that has 10.4 ounces of r22 (a dehumidifier), i can't exactly remember but i think its not quite enough but again this is an on going project and im have a crap ton of fun

Last edited by Sparkey247; 09-03-2012 at 01:33 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 09-03-2012, 07:02 AM   #5
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You have too much extra time on your hands. You'd be glad I'm not your boss.
Lookin' good Luke.
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:17 PM   #6
Sparkey247
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lol yeah the shops been having some days where we are all just standing around and other days where were humpin from 8 am all the way till 4:30.

i have a lil of the Enviro safe r22 left over and wanted to charge it tonight but my rents are out of town and my car is at their place along with my manifold gauges. i have my stepdads car because i gatta do brakes on it.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:46 PM   #7
Drewmeister
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Nicely done there Luke!

Just a couple things I noticed in the pictures.

1. The filter drier is in backwards. Remember about inserting the captube into the end with the taper. I would definitely switch that around next time you recharge it. Just run a tube straight up to the top of the unit and make put a 180 bend so it's pointing down. Kind of like how I did it in the pic below.

2. When splicing captube together you want as little gap as possible between the two sections. A gap will cause turbulent flow and some pressure drop. I crimp a 1/4" tube around a drill bit just slightly larger than the captube.. should allow snug fit for captube. Insert captube into sleeve with 1/16" gap between sections... snug up crimp if necessary then braze ends. See pics.

Recharging with r507: Since the compressor has mineral oil you'll need to add 5% r290(propane) for proper oil return. For lower temps at light load you'll want more captube restriction. If you plan to bench heavier cpu's then 8ft of .031" is good up to around 250w on this particular unit. You can tune on the fly for each cpu and bench.
No need to buy a whole bottle just yet.. I have some I can spare for a few builds. I have some more of those filters too if you need another.

Very impressive work there Luke.. especially considering it's your first unit. You're a quick learner and have excellent fabrication skills. It's been a pleasure working with you on this project. Looking forward to more of your builds in the future.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:06 AM   #8
Sparkey247
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ALL H3LL i put it on back wards WTF!. So to go about correcting it should i just run a tube to from the top and point it downwards then hook the cap tube to that? I am a little confused.

The drill bit idea, I freaking love it, thanks again for yet another tip

I am in the midst of building a second unit. this one happens to have 10.4 ounces of R22 in it, I am currently transferring it to the bottle. it is a dehumidifier, I was surprised, bought it for $4.99 at the goodwill in Northbrook. It has a nifty case on it. and most of all it works. the second unit may be for my shop PC, and I am planing to use the CAP IN CAP evap I made with it. And recover the Enviro Safe R22 from the first unit

my plans are to use the R22 in my first unit, so yes I will be refilling it. How ever my first unit takes a charge of 11.75 ounces. will what I am recovering (90% or so) from the second unit, be enough? or is there something I can top it off with? or should I call you and see when you could come out with the 507 and for go using the R22 all together.

also I have an old R12 water chiller (5 gallon jug type) that I might make for Shrimpy. I can get my hands on more R12 (rents have a fridge in basement that is older than I am and uses R12. or should I use R134.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:16 AM   #9
Sparkey247
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i think i just figured it out, the dryer that is. looking closer at your pic your cap tube is coming out the bottom. so when i drain the unit im thinking about this

Thanks for the compliment Drew but I had a D@MN good teacher
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:51 PM   #10
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The one on the right is correct, filter pointing down with captube out the bottom. There's also a tiny arrow on the filter showing the direction of flow. A downward position or angle helps insure a liquid seal at the inlet of the captube. Remember to insert the captube in till just where the diameter starts to get bigger on the filter... not too far or you run the risk of punchering the mesh screen. This will reduce the possibility of debris finding it's way in the captube.. it will also eliminate any possibility of being brazed shut.

Did you lap the evap? Best time to do that is before the suction line is attached. Lap with 220-400 then 600 grit.

Was that -22c cpu core or the evap temp?

Save that a/c evap... it can be used as a horizontal condenser.

Try and remove that splice on the captube if possible... I have more if you need any. Once you make the changes and confirm it's running ok, we can then go ahead and recharge with r507.

Recover the r12 and use r134a + POE oil change for that chiller.
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