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Old 10-13-2012, 02:32 PM   #181
technogiant
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Thanks Drew, I'm really pleased with it....I've been running through the Heaven benchmark, it just seems to be going so much smoother, I'm sure there was a problem with the ram on my last system.....I've even been able to increase my stable gpu clock on that benchmark from 920 to 960...everything just seems so much more stable...no hitching & catching. No problem with the new ram modules @2133mhz timings 9,9,9,24.

I've been scouring the web for info on the max safe vcore.....the max stated for 24/7 is 1.45vcore...and the general consensus is anything over 1.5v long term will cause cpu degradation.

I think I will try some higher vcores just to see how far I can push the overclock for some benchies.....I feel sure that as I was stable at 5.4ghz in intelburn test (even if hot 60-70c) I should be able to get 200-300mhz more in wprime.

I've heard that the sandybridge cold bug can cause it to boot inconsistently with different multiplier values...sort of 55 good, 56 no boot, 57 good....etc....may be the problem.

But when I've finished playing I'll settle on a lower clock/vcore.....as I'm getting 5.0ghz at 1.38v I may just see what the max stated vcore of 1.45 gives me....I'm stable in wprime at 5.5ghz at 1.49vcore and tbh anything in the region of 5.2 or 5.3 is going to eat any game I throw at it.

I've got some me time coming up soon so I'll get some screenies done
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:42 PM   #182
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Wow TG .. simply WOW !! .. mid 5s !! .. and that bit extra on the GPUs is really nice too. I'll try not to sound like Bill Gates and the 8k of ram quote , but I think you now have more than enougth CPU grunt for practically anything lol.

Considering most games are GPU bound at higher res's , especially in my res (2560x1440) i'm not sure if i can bring myself to upgrade , even though i would dearly love some 5ghz + benchies lol. Besides theres always that shot at the #1 spot ... its quite enticing lol. A few more modifications and i might get there yet.

Stellar results man .. bring on that r134a ... ;-)
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:16 PM   #183
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I've been doing some game benchmark and game testing today to see if there is any appreciable difference between 5.0 and 5.5Ghz and tbh I can't find any difference not even in BF3 which is quite cpu intensive...so I've settled on 5.0Ghz with a lower voltage and concentrated on getting my ram speed up. I'm at 2133mhz 8,8,10,10 with a command rate of 1. It seems to make a big difference in gflop's developed in intel burn test.

Oh and btw...really pleased with BF3 multiplayer now...no more random and frequent crashes....I have everything maxed out on ultra 4xantialiasing at 1920x1200.
The only thing I've turned off motion blur as I don't like it. I'm getting min 60+ average 80+ and max 100+fps.....awesome....my gtx460's at 960mhz are completely maxed out by the game, as I thought, they were being cpu limited before.

One thing I did notice is that when you enable hyperthreading the game utilizes 5 cores instead of 4...so I suppose thats a good thing to leave on??

All I have to do now is reduce my respawn rate...lol.

Last edited by technogiant; 10-14-2012 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:19 PM   #184
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In BF3 , this was some time ago , it had issues at least with the drivers of the time with hyperthreading, it produced noticeable annoying frame stutter on my system. I disabled the HT and it ran smooth. In general games that benefit positively from HT are few and far between.

This could be sorted out now, it was about 6 months ago when i was playing it last .. need to get back into it.

Reducing respawn rate .. how to .. well thats the blind leading the blind there .. i personally like the tank maps as i tend to go ok in tanks .. just as long as theres no ace bombers around ;-)
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:16 PM   #185
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Yeah I found reference to the hyperthreading/stutter issue....but I read they have patched it out....it doesn't seem to make any difference on my system on or off now other than showing the load spread out over more cores and so slightly lower per core in resource monitoring.....my systems gone from being cpu limited to gpu limited....anything above 5.0Ghz on the cpu doesn't make any realistic difference in any game I've tested....both gpu's completely maxed out 100% of the time.
Only game that over taxed it was cryostasis.....exceeded my 2GB framebuffer!! So turned down AA and gpu grunt was still plenty there.

I know I've only just completed this chillbox build.....but I've got a new idea that is burning away at me.

I believe it was you Orthello that linked me to a build on youtube where the mobo was submerged under a fluid with a 35 deg C boiling point so it cooled the components by phase changing and was re-condensed above and dripped back into the reservoir.

Well you know I've been thinking about changing the gas in the chamber and perhaps using one that liquifies at chamber temps and pumping the liquid around? Well it would be a lot simpler just to have the mobo lying flat in the base of the chamber so that the liquified gas submerges the entire mobo.....It would be sort of like turning the entire chamber into a giant heatpipe.

It would be a very simple design, no need for pumps or worrying about which heatsinks are compatible...there would be no need to use anything like that, I'd remove the heatsinks for direct cooling...perhaps even de-lid the cpu for direct nude cooling.

The only problem I can see is that I'd have to keep the fluid volume as low as possible perhaps by packing out areas where no cooling fluid was needed as too much liquid would make too large a volume of gas when turned off to realistically contain.
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:27 PM   #186
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TG thats interesting about the patch for BF3, might try and see how it goes with HT on. I could prolly game fairly stable at 4.7 with HT on so might give that a shot with the new patch.

Yeah that video is really awesome to watch. If you could get the volumes right , and get it recirculating as desired i sure the results would be great. I think you would need some sort of heatsink as they did use shims. Going naked wouldn't give enough surface area for the heat to boil off from the die .. i think .. its all theoretical. I was thinking it would be quite messy when it comes to upgrade but it would all be in a gas state at room temp so you would just be releasing gas for changing hardware ..

I've probalbly hit the end of the "easy" mods for me , only way i can significantly reduce temps now is to run dual loops in/out and dedicate one loop to CPU. Significant rework of the resoiver though so i'm not too keen on that. I only have 3 ports on the resoiver .. i would need a fourth. My chiller is working good now too without any prechill (or valves ) required .. i just need to sit in the bios for a few mins to get a bootable temp thats all. Hit -11c in the bios yesterday on the cpu which is interesting as the diode in realtemp bottoms out at -8c too.

So when are you putting that r134a in ? lol.
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:46 PM   #187
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Glad to hear the mods you've made have been so worthwhile, and yeah it is hard to decide to push ahead with more major mods when things are going so well already.

I'm not 100% decided on trying the r134a yet,I've a few concerns about it......we're heading into autumn here and with the reduced ambient temps my chamber is now hovering in the -30 at idle to-25 at load region. That's below the below the boiling point of r134a at -26. If it were the only gas in the chamber and it started to liquify then I guess the chamber pressure would start to reduce and so lower the boiling point of the r134a....so it would be self limiting but would negate the use of my expansion chamber and there would be a suction effect into the chamber which I didn't really want,a lower pressure will also have a negative effect on cooling.

Also I recall seeing somewhere that r134a can have an effect on plastics/synthetics...so not to sure if that would cause a problem with things like capacitor seals etc.

I'm thinking firstly I need a gas with a lower boiling point, and secondly I'd prefer to use a natural hydrocarbon rather than a halogenated one, may cause less of a problem with plastics.

The trouble is that brings me back to propane, it's a hydrocarbon with a boiling point of about -40c.....it's a lot cheaper that r134a and more readily available...but of course potentially very dangerous if I got things wrong......so still undecided yet.

Going back to that submersion build, you may well be right about naked cooling not having enough surface area. I recall they used a dimpled/stippled surface on the cpu heat spreader, although I think that was not so much about increasing the surface area but more about nebulisation (think that's the correct word) its the process where gases come out of solution and I guess also phase change from liquid to gas similar to the frothing effect you would get if you put a teaspoon of sugar granules into a bottle of fizzy drink. The roughened surface provides a nebula or point for the gas bubble to form on as it doesn't happen so easily on a very smooth surface.

Although this will require a complete chamber rebuild I think this is the direction my project will take. It offers the most direct and efficient form of cooling, is even simpler than my current build and would solve my graphics card heatsink dilemma ......plus it appeals to the side of me that always likes to do things differently....lol

Additional Comment:

Well I'm probably doing far too much thinking about all this and not enough doing.

But I think I've come up with a half way house method that allows me to use liquified gas with my current chamber build.

My mobo can't be laid flat on the base of my current chamber it is mounted on the side wall......but there would be nothing to prevent me from pumping liquid gas from the bottom to the mobo with a miniature submersible pump.

The problem of having enough liquid gas to pump while not having too much so that it's gaseous volume can't be reasonably contained I think can be overcome.

My chamber base measures 50cmX35cm so a 1cm depth of fluid would have a volume of 1.75 liters. That would be too much, 1 liter fluid which would equate to about 240 liters of gas would be about the max...(it could be contained in a 80cm space hopper..lol)

I could in fill the base with steel ball bearings, the free space between packed spheres is about 26% of the total volume. So working that out 1 liter would have give a depth of 2.2cm of fluid...I think that may be enough to submerge the business end of a small submersible pump, if not I could further infill the base with areas of solid packing to further increase the depth 1 litre would give.

I think I will try this initially by just having the pump direct a jet of fluid over the base of the cpu air cooled heat sink before I proceed further to a cpu water block and then the gpu's.

Additional Comment:

Well I've replaced the chamber air with Helium and have been doing some tests.....the results aren't as good as I hoped and are not very easy to interpreter.

First off I noted that the cpu fan speed has gone up from 2400rpm to 3000rpm because the helium is less dense...I guess that increase also applies to the other fans but I'm not monitoring those.

It has taken 10C off the gpu temps across the board regardless of the test, furmark at clock speed 960mhz, furmark at stock 700mhz or heaven at 960mhz...all show a 10c reduction on both gpus.

The cpu results are quite baffling at max heat production with IBT at 5.4GHz the temps is just about 5c lower where as at lower heat production with IBT at 5.0GHz the results are identical to air....and if I lower the heat production again by just using the heaven benchmark then temps drop by 5c again compared to air.

The way I'm rationalizing the strange cpu temp behaviour is by considering the cooling limiting factors of the heat sink design and the heat gradient.

I'm thinking that at some point along the cooling fins the temperature will equal the chamber temp, the position of that point will vary depending on the amount of heat production, the more heat produced the further away from the block will be the balance point and visa versa for less heat production.

Obviously any part of the heatsink fins further away from the block than the balance point will not contribute to cooling as they are at the same temp as the chamber and therefore not transferring heat.

So lower heat loads will only use the part of the fins directly by the block,with my Zalman flower design heatsink the fins converge closely as they come to join the block.

Heat removal is governed by two processes, conductive through the metal and then removal by gas flow through the fins and can be limited by which ever is the weaker component.

I think at lower heat loads only the inner part of the heat sink is used and because the fins are closely packed in that region then removal of the heat by gas flow becomes the limiting factor.
That's why I see and improvement with the helium at lower heat loads as it is improving the weak link in the cooling process.

At intermediate heat loads I see no improvement....at this point the heat balance point has moved out into the main body of the fins, gas flow through the fins is good and this part of the heat transfer process is not limiting whether I use air or Helium, the heat transfer is being limited by the conductive part of the heat transfer process so I see the same temps.

At higher heat loads the balance point has actually moved beyond the extremities of the fins so the entire heatsink assembly is now above chamber temperature and the cooling is now again being limited by the gas cooling aspect of the heat transfer process and again I see an improvement using the helium.

I guess the reason I'm seeing a 10c improvement on the gpu's and only a 5c improvement on the cpu is because the gpu heatsinks are quite poor and so have more room for improvement.

All interesting stuff and not as simple as I first thought, improvement depends on the strengths and weaknesses of the individual cooling components.

I also did not notice any alteration in my minimum chamber temp without load or any change of the loaded chamber temp.....which I think is good as it actually shows that my temps are not being limited by transfer of heat from the air/gas to the evap and is solely limited by the capacity of the evap system to remove heat energy..... ....I'm going to have to leave it for some time now to see how long my chamber can hang onto that Helium.

Last edited by technogiant; 10-28-2012 at 04:53 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:47 PM   #188
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Wow TG !! , bowing to the extremist with the Helium cooled computer

Serious Kudos to you mate , and nice to see some outright drops on the GPU temps. CPU i would have expected a similar drop , but your reasoning is fairly sound about utilisation of the heatsink. Really it matters not what the idle / moderate temps are anyhow - you need the top end reduction for stability, so 5c at the top end is 5c for overclocking further. If i could get 5-10c by changing fluid i would be doing it lol .. so well done.

Like you say the challenge is now to hold on to the gas .. i'm unsure how you monitor that, possibly the best indicator is your cpu fan rpm .. as that drops back from 3000 to 2400 you will know the helium is escaping.

You've just upped the ante and i'm now racking my brain how i'm going to get the next 10c lol.

PS let me know if you set new clocks on those GPUs whilst the helium lasts !

Last edited by Orthello77; 10-28-2012 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:52 AM   #189
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Lol...Thanks Orthello....I must admit I was hoping for more...but it is what it is.

I monitor gas loss by inflating the sac almost fully and seeing how long it takes to deflate almost completely.....about 5 weeks with air.

But as you say it will be nice to see how the cpu fan rpm holds...that will give some indication if the chamber is maintaining the gas purity rather than just volume, as it is possible that air is diffusing into the chamber in the opposite direction at the same time as helium volume as a whole is being lost. That could be of particular interest for the next stage where I need to ensure gas purity in the chamber.

Additional Comment:

I want to move on to the next stage of my plan which is to have liquid gas in the chamber but having real difficulty in finding a suitable gas....I don't want to use a flammable gas.....it would be the absolutely last resort... but cant find one with a suitable boiling point that is available to me.....R160, R142b and R124 would all be fine but I can't find a supplier and as they appear so rare I guess they would be very expensive.

What is really annoying is that R134a is not quite suitable in terms of it's boiling point at -26c.....now the cooler weather is with us my loaded chamber temp is hovering in that region but during summer its about -22c.

If I could just drop my chamber temps by 5 or more degree's I'd be able to use that....Drew I'm wondering if you know of any simple ac mods that may do that for me? I don't have the ability or equipment to change out the refrigerant, but is there anything else......just a few degrees is tantalizingly close.

Last edited by technogiant; 10-29-2012 at 12:26 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:17 AM   #190
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Reducing condensing temps will help lower evap temps some. Obviously that won't help you much in the warmer months. Adding some fans to cool the compressor can help lower the condensing pressure a bit. You really need to retune the unit for a particular temp range and load. Basically resize captube and adjust charge. You could try removing some charge to lower the suction pressure. Just tap into the line with a piercing valve and recover some charge into a small bottle. That should drop temps quite a bit for you. If for some reason it doesn't work out then just suck the gas back into the system and cap it off.

There will be areas of the evaporator that are colder than the air temp. In your case that could easily be 2-6c difference. The cfm flowing through the evap fins is what ultimately loads the system. Try reducing fan cfm and see what that nets you. I achieved much lower temps by lowering the cfm when I had my chillbox.

That part about r134a attacking plastics might just be due to the POE oil in a normal refrigeration system. You might want to look into r506 and r227ea.. those are in the -12 to -16c range and are non-flammable. https://www.usgbc.org/Docs/LEED_tsac..._Data-2001.pdf

That's some very nice performance you're getting in BF3. Lol.. the game can be very frustrating during the noob period.. took me 3 months to get a handle on that. Amazing game though and a blast once you get a feel for it. Hope to see you guys on the BF some day.

Interesting results with the Helium.. thanks for posting.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:15 AM   #191
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Thanks for the help and suggestions with this Drew.

I've been playing with the cfm as this seemed the easiest option but can't get any change in the right direction...just higher chamber temps...shame cos that would have been nice and easy.

I'm running scarred of piercing the suction tube just in case I mess up....but I'm interested in re-tuning.

I'm guessing that increasing the resistance of the cap tube by lengthening it would lower the evap temp while at the same time lowering the total heat load it could handle.

Just wondering if the same effect could be achieved by pinching the captube and so increasing resistance?.....if that would work may be less risky than piercing the system...for me at least.

Having read around a bit more about R134a affecting plastic/polymer stuff I think this was more to do with the different type of oil it requires and the affect that has on existing seals when changing the charge on older systems....so if I can just get my chamber temps down 5c or more I could go with that....can't seem to find any supply of R506 or R227.....are these gases available to the public or do you have to be a HVAC engineer to buy them?

Additional Comment:

Just a bit of an update on the helium cooling....as I suspected it is escaping quicker that air....the rate it is going I think I'll get 2-3 weeks out of a expansion sac full as opposed to 5 with air.....so probably too expensive to top up in the longer term especially considering the results were a bit of a mixed bag.

Still these things spark invention and I've come up with an idea.....a much better way to ensure the chamber is completely air tight.

It would use fluid to create the seal and could be used in place of the lid gasket and to seal the cables as they pass into the chamber.

If I explain the cables first, it uses the same principle as the lid but is easier to visualize.

Simply run a wide bore pipe horizontally through the side wall of the chamber, put 90 degree elbows on each end with a small section of vertical pipe on each end so you have formed a "U" shaped tube going through the chamber wall....pass all your cables in through it then fill the "U" pipe with fluid....mineral oil or similar.

With the lid simply make a trough running all around the top edge of the chamber, pour mineral in to it, the lid would have a lip that projects in to the trough...so it forms a "U" shaped mineral oil filled trap. There would be no need for a high clamping pressure to close the lid.

You would need an expansion chamber to balance the chamber and atmospheric pressures though or the oil would be sucked into the chamber.

**********

I've also had some thoughts about using the chamber as a sump to contain liquified gas....the inside of my chamber is made of quite a dense foam which is water repellent and hydrophobic, but of course the the liquid gas is a hyrocarbon or halogenated carbon compound and will itself be hydrophobic and so might quite happily be absorbed by the foam insulation.....I tested this out by putting some mineral oil which is also hydrophobic in character on to a cut edge of the foam........it was absorbed by the foam quite quickly....So I'm guessing any liquid gas would be absorbed also and spoil my plans...as well as probably exploding the foam when it re-vaporized!!

I'm going to have to contain the liquid gas in a closed loop like a watercooling loop but with a large external expansion chamber.

Last edited by technogiant; 11-03-2012 at 05:43 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:17 AM   #192
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I've heard talk about restricting the captube, just never heard of any successful results from that. It would be very easy for one to go too far and ruin the a/c. If you were to try this I would still recommend piercing the line and attaching a manifold gauge set so you can monitor the pressures as you clamp the tube. Before doing anything.. get me the exact OD and approx length of the captube.

No need to be scared of piercing the lines, it's a very simple and straight forward procedure. Run a refrigerant hose to an expansion bottle and adjust charge for a balance of lowest temps vs capacity. The expansion bottle can be one of those little propane bottles for a torch or camping fuel. You might even be able to bypass the original captube with a new one by using two piercing valves.. then squeeze off the old tube.

The r227ea is an HFC like r134a so you might be able to get it without any certification. R506 contains R-31 which is an HCFC so you would most likely need cert for that.
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:20 AM   #193
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Well if you've not heard of successful results from squeezing the cap tube then it's probably not a good idea.

I've been taking some measurements of the cap tube...it's OD is 2.5mm and length is 120cm.

It looks like I'm going to have to change my plans a bit as my insulation material would simply absorb the liquified gas so I need to contain it in a closed loop including radiator to cool it. This will introduce another interface and hence temp delta between the chamber and liquified gas temperatures so I would need the chamber to be colder again by some as yet undefined amount to keep the R134a liquified.

I've been looking at some of those piercing valves... and it looks simple enough....just have the expansion bottle attached to it via a pigtail?

I guess if I pierced the suction line I could remove charge when the a/c unit was turned off and if I turned the a/c unit on and opened the valve I guess it would suck charge back in?

Just wondering what sort of temp decreases I could expect from just altering the amount of charge and not touching the captube?

Last edited by technogiant; 11-03-2012 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:52 PM   #194
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That captube's ID is most likely .052-.064".. very nonrestrictive for low temp. You really need double that length or a smaller ID. It looks like you could bypass your orig captube with piercing valves. That and or just tweak the charge a little for lower temps. Yes.. just an expansion bottle hooked up via a refrigeration hose or capilary tube.

You could do it through the low side the way you mentioned... then you don't necessarily need a manifold gauge set. The preferred way would be to have two piercing valves and gauge set. Recover through high side very slowly with unit running and note changes.. that can take up to 15min per adjustment. The gauge set allow you to monitor both pressures so you can keep an eye on the subcooling and superheat.

You should be able to get 5-10c drop at load. If you retune with captube then maybe 10-15c.

Closed loop now.. like a large heat pipe circuit?
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:52 AM   #195
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Thanks Drew, so it seems that the captube is the weakest link.

It would be good if I could bypass the captube.....but I'm not sure I can get a piercing valve on the lowside of the captube....the cap goes into a small diameter tube before joining a "standard" tube right by the evap.

How would I connect a new section of cap between two piercing valves?

Yeah I think I'm going to have to use a closed loop as my insulation board will absorb any liquid gas.....so yeah very much like a large heat pipe design.

In fact I'm thinking I'll experiment first with a passive system without a pump...first with just the cpu......just have two pipes connecting the block to a rad above it so gravity returns the condensed fluid.

The problem with this design is the gaseous and fluid phases will be traveling in opposite directions in the same tubes and I'm concerned the gas will impede the return of fluid....there will be about 150ml of gas produced per second. If I were to use a pump this wouldn't be a problem.

I'd prefer to use a passive system as its completely closed and little chance of leaks....I'm wondering if a pump may lose gas through the motor shaft seals as they are only meant to prevent fluid loss not gas.

I'm thinking for experimental purposes I'll use liquid pentane.....boiling point of +36c...will boil under load temps so I can test if the concept works and be in liquid form for easier handling at room temp.
Also its cheap and readily available so I don't have to spend too much on a concept that may not work.

If that works then I'll move to gases with a lower boiling point.

I'm able to source HFC-227ea boiling point -16c and non flammable which would be ideal.....problem is it's very very expensive....with tax 360 for 13.6kg.

If I'm certain I can get this working then expensive as it is I'd go for that...it would last a long time and save me having to mess with my ac unit to get the lower temps needed to liquify R134a....but I need to test it out before spending that sort of cash.
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:00 PM   #196
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The piercing valve for the low side would be installed on the section of tubing that steps up in size... the closer to the evap the better. Use flares to connect to the piercing valves.. just step up the tubing to whatever size the ftg is on the valve.. the standard size in the US is 1/4". http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SUP...898?Pid=search

Note: You'll need to purge the air out of the captube when installing it. With valves and captube all in place and tightened.. not pierced yet, start by pierce condenser end.. loosen flare on evap end a bit to purge line for a second.. then tighten. Now just pierce evap side and you're done. Add a third valve, hose (gauge set preferred) and expansion tank to fine tune charge.

Why not just use r134a and tune the pipe to boil slightly above your worse case air temps. I think you said -22c.. so tune for -18c/6psi. For best results for this application, you might want to tune the pressure while at cpu idle. Start with a small liquid charge of r134a (can inverted)... remove charge as needed for best load temps.

I don't think there will be any problems with flow inside the pipe as long as you feed liquid in the bottom of the evap block and return gas out the top. The gas travels up to the top of the condenser.. condenses to liquid and flows out the bottom and feeds the evap block.

Still waiting for those screenshots.. would love to see that wPrime run at 5.5!
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:55 AM   #197
technogiant
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Thanks for all that info Drew...but I must admit I've been tasking my mind with all this and becoming a little disillusioned.......I've been trying to work out how to do this with a passive heat pipe design, sort of waterblock>tubing>radiator and although the idea seems quite neat and simple the mechanics of physically doing this with my current chamber are proving problematic.
The fluid return would have to be via gravity and there is no way of positioning the rad so it would be above the gpu block as my gpu's are towards the top of the chamber.

I don't know if putting a pump in would solve the problem or would the gas generated end up causing the pump to dry run or push the cooling fluid out of the blocks if the rad wasn't at the highest point?

There's a lot of unknows and it's going to cost a lot to find out if it works.....all put me off it a little......I think a chamber design with this specifically in mind would be the way to go.

Not sure which way things are going to go atm.....ultimately all this is to solve a possible problem with the heat sinks when I come to upgrade my gpu's....I may not have to do anything.....wait and see is probably the best approach for now.

Ps...I'll certainly post up some 5.5 wprime results....:-)

Additional Comment:

Hey Drew, finally got around to doing that wprime test at 5.5GHz....I've been having some problems with hyper threading not working proprerly....but sorted now.

So the below is at 5.5GHz with hyperthreading enabled.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Doesn't appear as good as I'd hoped for some reason, that's why I put my memory test details in there too.....which all seems good so not really sure why it's not faster? although it's not too shabby.

Last edited by technogiant; 11-25-2012 at 03:55 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:05 PM   #198
Drewmeister
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Looking good there TG! HWBOT submissions use v1.55. That should knock a good 15s or so off that score. Download here: http://hwbot.org/benchmarks/processor
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Old 11-26-2012, 01:51 PM   #199
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Thanks Drew, I'll give that v1.55 a run later and re-post the results.

I've been thinking a lot about my cooling solution lately and rather than trying to change to a liquid gas or water cooled method I'm going concentrate on enhancing what I already have.

I'm going to tack a 12cm Scythe gentle typhoon 5400rpm 150cfm fan on to my cpu cooler....unless anyone knows of a better fan?

Also considering the gpu heat sinks and my concern about what I will be able to get...well its not all bad......I see the evga gtx 670 super oc uses a solid heat sink like the nvidia reference gtx 670 heat sink except they use a copper base plate.

Also the the gtx 680...although it uses heat pipes they do not "steal" contact area that the baseplate has with the gpu heat spreader, they are on the other side of the base plate embedded in the heat sink and assist in lateral distribution of the heat.

Think nvidia have hit on a good efficient idea there as it uses both conductive and evaporative cooling but unlike vapor chambers and designs where the heat sink fins are mounted on the heat pipes this design does not break the thermal conductive pathway and will be more efficient.....probably a design we will see more of in future.

It suits my cooling method as the conductive path is not broken.....I've been considering using a graphite based material to increase the heat distribution over the base plate. Panasonic PGS

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/displayPro...oss_price=true

http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/...ite-sheet.aspx

A layer of that over the base plate would help spread the heat I'm sure...

Additional Comment:

Just ran that wprime v1.55....and just as you said Drew...knocked about 15secs off the score.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Looking at the leader boards that seems to be about where it should be so i'm pleased with that...cheers.

Last edited by technogiant; 11-26-2012 at 01:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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