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Old 06-11-2012, 12:22 AM   #41
technogiant
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Hi guys, I've built the internal insulation box, apart from the back panel which I'm leaving off so I can slip it around the evap rad.

I'm going for the same layout as before in that the evap will divide the chamber into two parts with the fans to the side to get a circular air flow. I'm going to have the fans pulling this time as you suggested Drew.

A slight modification is that instead of having a cap over the rad and fan stack I've lowered the chamber walls so they are the same height as the evap so that the lid will simultaneously seal the airflow chamber when put on. That way I will have access to the rear chamber as I want to put desiccant in there which will need drying out from time to time.

The other thing I've changed is the insulation material, it's like a much denser more closed insulation board and is faced either side with a heavy metal foil facing.

Seems to be more durable and less porous than polystyrene.

I'm also going for a belt and braces approach in that I'm going to try and make both the internal insulation box and the external acrylic box sealed and air tight.

I've been experimenting with the psu atx cable to try and seal it. I removed a section of the outer braiding and got a section of 4 inch long 19mm polytubing which I split length ways down the one side. Put it around the cable and then injected a load of silicone. Massaged that in between the wires and then cabled tied at several points along its length and tightened it as much as possible. this sort of compressed the silicone which squirted out of the ends of the tubes. So I'm hoping this will have filled all the gaps....it's still drying atm.

One thing I'm uncertain about, I wanted to make some arrangement so I could operate the "clear cmos" button.....but its the wrong orientation to just make a hole in the case and prod it with a rod.

There is a 3 pin header on the mobo which does the same function which normally has pins 1 and 2 connected by a jumper and to clear cmos you move the jumper to pins 2 and 3.

Not sure how I can do this with switches.

Can I just leave 1 and 2 open and put a momentary switch across 2/3.

Or can I permanently close 1 and 2 and put a momentary switch across 2/3

Or would I have to put switches across both 1/2 and 2/3 so I can open 1/2 before I close 2/3 which is obviously what happens when you move the jumper.

Last edited by technogiant; 06-11-2012 at 01:12 AM.
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Old 06-11-2012, 12:55 AM   #42
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Hey TG , sounds like you have been making some good progress.

Thats what i'm also going to try with the ATX cable so hears hoping that does the trick.

Yeah i think i we can get it air tight we won't have to much ongoing maintainence.

Drew,

Thanks for the ideas on the fans, thinking about it your totally right. I will have the fans blowing directly over the motherboard and lift the Radiator / Fans to have the air gap underneath and will use some form of cornering as you suggested. I'm sure that will work a lot better than before.

Guys i have started a seperate thread in the water chilled section. Thanks for the help so far its getting exciting.
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:05 AM   #43
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tg
I've been following your thread and I must say its a beast you have there - far byond my capabilities.

you may like to conside usin extension cables to pass through you insulation
there is a link to amazon - there are of course other suppliers

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&k...l_3zbin2rvhz_b

and as I've needed to use some of this over the weekend it may be of use to you as well

http://www.everbuild.co.uk/products/...0DIY%20Foams/1

I look forward to seeing the completed photos and stats

John
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:51 PM   #44
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Thanks for that Johnerz...that's a good idea.....I'm not to worried about the pcie cables as they are modular but the atx and additional cpu power cables are hardwired to my psu....so I'll use extenders for those to save having to chop it about at a later stage if I need to replace my psu.....great idea

Additional Comment:

Taken the final plunge today and ordered my acrylic sheeting, fan controller and all the cables etc I need to do the job...got some spare time towards the end of the week by which time it should have all been delivered so hopefully big progress if not finished by end of the weekend.

Also bought some ratchet ties/webbing to clamp the lid on with and a couple of large sachets of desiccant each one meant for a caravan sized space so two of them should be more than adequate for my little chamber.

Last edited by technogiant; 06-11-2012 at 02:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:48 PM   #45
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Hey TG ... you just mentioned the PCIE were modular (mine are aswell) and i've just ordered some extenders from FrozenCPU - i forgot all about that ! DOH.. wish i had of thought of that before ordering lol (are the modular cables always interchangable ?) !! Got the ATX extender , the CPU 12v extender, 36" sata cables and PCIE extenders + piping / NB fans and other bits coming.

Thats great news that you have your ordered your bits , looking forward to the pics.
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Old 06-11-2012, 11:34 PM   #46
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Not sure about that now, it's the first modular psu I've had, I thought they would be standard though?.......anyone?
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Old 06-11-2012, 11:38 PM   #47
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Tg.. pins 1&2 don't do anything.. they're basically just a spot to keep the jumper cap. A momentary switch on 2&3 is all you need.

Great idea on sealing the psu cables. I wonder if you could something similar for the other cables or are you still going with the acrylic disc idea?
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Old 06-12-2012, 12:06 AM   #48
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Thanks Drew, that will make wiring the cmos reset easier.

I'm just experimenting with the cable sealing atm although from what I can tell from visual inspection the silicone seems to have sealed the atx bundle nicely.

I will still use the acrylic disc idea in combination with the silicone sealed atx bundle as this will give some depth to the seal as it passes through the the 6mm acrylic case and support the cables to stop the seals with the case breaking so easily.
It could also be possible to bundle a number of smaller cables together and seal them in this manner to save having lots of individual holes....less chance for leaks...got to be a good thing.

Also just found this product here

http://www.maplin.co.uk/self-amalgam..._content=Tapes

May be even better and less messy for wrapping around the individual cables of the atx bundle and then cable tying them tight so they all meld together.

Do you know if psu modular cables are interchangeable between different makes of psu?

Last edited by technogiant; 06-12-2012 at 12:27 AM.
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Old 06-12-2012, 12:16 AM   #49
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TG, i had one bad experience once , same brand of PSU i reused the modular cables of the older model and connected them to the new model (different wattage). Fried 3 hard drives on power up, not my proudest moment. Possibly i should have done a pin test to make sure. The cables did fit which didn't help.

Last edited by Orthello77; 06-12-2012 at 02:07 AM.
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Old 06-12-2012, 12:37 AM   #50
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In that case Orthello it may be advisable for me to get the pcie extenders....don't want to fry my graphics set up.

I think I'll be keeping my molex and sata power cables all outside the box so probably no need to buy extenders for those...can't see I'd need them inside for anything?

Also good call on the longer sata data cable...think mine would just about reach but I'll get some longer ones for added flexibility.

Last edited by technogiant; 06-12-2012 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:28 AM   #51
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It can't hurt to get the extenders. Makes the routing easier and it could be safer if changin the PSU in the future.

Yeah Sata power and molex i don't think you will need those inside the chamber for anything.

Just ordering everything at the moment. In limbo until it all arrives. I'm hoping some bits arrive before the weekend.
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:36 PM   #52
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I'm also thinking of how best to seal the acrylic panels together. Don't think I will rely just on edge sealing but will use 1/2 inch 90 deg angle strip around all the joints.
Thinking plastic will be fine for this rather than aluminium, not so much strength that is the concern but rather ensuring a good seal.

Additional Comment:

My acrylic has just been delivered... so the build will be starting shortly....think I've solved the cable sealing issue with that self amalgamating tape.

Additional Comment:

So I've started cutting the acrylic panels today, never worked with acrylic before.....it's truly horrible.

Orthello you really had the right idea by getting yours made up for you.

I have some kind of aversion to the smell of acrylic....my daughter is doing a nail beautician course and when she gets the nail acrylic solution out I have to leave the house....this stuff smells just the same when you're cutting it as it melts a little.


The other thing is that as you cut it with a jig saw the stuff melts a bit then resets behind the blade....so you get to the end and have to run the saw through it again so it weakens enough to break off.....hard work or what.

Also with the edge melting it doesn't cut as accurately as I'd like ...still I'll make it work.

Last edited by technogiant; 06-13-2012 at 12:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:05 PM   #53
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Hey TG great to hear you've started with the chamber.

Its been a while since i cut much acrylic myself but i don't remember it melting much. It gets a bit of a thread that breaks off , also the cut is not 100% even due to the teeth of the jig saw but something that can be sanded out. I'm not sure if other plastics would be much better ?

I know its hard work but does a hacksaw give a better finish ? it may not melt the edge as much.

The acrylic guys here can bend it and laser cut it , also they have a cnc machine, so often they are doing less joins and precision cutting of the holes. Theres no way with the gear in my garage i could do a job like that and they are not too badly priced considering the price of the acrylic alone.

Wish i had something to play with atm everythings on its way :-(
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:16 PM   #54
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Yeah tried it by hand and bent 2 blades before I got 4 inches in......have you ever power planed this stuff?
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:30 PM   #55
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Jeez thats tough. I guess i have only worked with 3mm before. Not 6mm but it almost sounds like you have something a bit tougher to work with that what i've got at home. I was lucky with the stuff i got , it was only 3mm and it cut easily with the jig saw without melting. I had a fairly blunt blade on the jig saw too. I'd think 6mm would be just be slower work but i have never tried cutting it that thick.

Never power planed it no .. i would think if its melting a bit on the edge from the jig saw the power planar is going to melt the edge somewhat too. I know when drilling it you have to constantly clear the drill piece so i'd imagine that the sanding surface if it gets hot will just gunk up pretty quick.

Sorry to hear you are having all this trouble , i'm sure it will still look the part and do the job when its finished. Nothing every runs fully to plan lol.
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Old 06-13-2012, 03:22 PM   #56
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Yeah...I'll get the better of it, only got the lid and bottom to cut out now, the worst is done...in work tomorrow but will finish cutting the panels in the evening....then some deep thought about the cable holes......haven't had all my extenders come through yet...so I'll wait to see whats what before I commit.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:19 PM   #57
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Ah thats good TG, often stumped but never beaten !

Good news on my front i pick up the R22 window based A/C tonight so hopefully i'll get a quick photo of that up. Also the portable A/C which is R407a should be here monday i checked with shipping. So hopefully i will be able to do a cold test this weekend on the R22 A/C . I might just box the evapourater and see what it drops too. At last its all starting to happen.
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:07 PM   #58
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Hey TG.. maybe you can avoid the melting(lol.. and odor) by keeping the blade and material around it wet. Perhaps a garden hose or something with a slow trickle. Have a helping hand squirt cold water from a spray bottle as you cut?

You can use a thin acrylic cement like weld-on 4 if you can get the edges flat and smooth. I've heard of people using a router to clean up the edges. You can always block sand.. maybe 220 then 400. If the edges are uneven or rough you can use weld-on 16 which is a thicker medium bodied acrylic cement for filling gaps. If the material is thick enough you can also drill & tap for small screws.
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Old 06-15-2012, 12:29 AM   #59
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Thanks for the advise on that guys, will finish the panel cutting this morning, barring calamity.

Wasn't actually thinking of using an acrylic cement Drew, thought I'd stay with this gap filling adhesive/sealant I've been using.

http://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/6...0663688%20list

Its very strong, flexible, waterproof and good down to -40deg C.
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Old 06-15-2012, 04:42 AM   #60
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Jeez you are finding some good stuff TG .. good to -40c i might have to get some of that. Should be ideal. Thanks for the link !

Finally got some Pics up on the window A/C , havn't done any testing yet :-)

Last edited by Orthello77; 06-15-2012 at 04:43 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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