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Old 05-01-2016, 03:20 PM   #21
doggonit55
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Heat sinks

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmxfelon420 View Post
Was that a specific heatsink kit for your card or did you make some of those? Cutting ramsinks sucks to do.
Enzotech copper heat sinks, 3 different sizes. I tried to buy them all at once to save on shipping. Expensive, but stick really well to a properly prepared surface. You can also bend the pin type fins out of the way easily if you need to make clearance for something else. I don't like to think about how much these cost me, but they will pry off later with some difficulty and are re-usable with new 3-m tape. The exception will be the ones with the tiny base that pop off easily if you handle them too rough.
http://www.enzotechnology.com/bmr_c1.htm
http://www.enzotechnology.com/bcc9.htm
http://www.enzotechnology.com/mos-c1.htm
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Old 09-01-2016, 05:12 PM   #22
doggonit55
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Windows 10 ....

Finally back to this project after several months. Unfortunately Windows 10 Anniversary Edition came out at the same time. The system was in a perpetual reboot. If I uninstalled the Radeon drivers, the reboot would stop being a problem. I tried Windows 7, but Microsoft has the update patch process so messed up I finally gave that up after a couple of wasted days. I was unsure if it was the two dual GPU cards, so disconnected one and that did not help. Possibly the PCIe SSD? Anyway, I finally set up the Windows 10 updates for the insider program, and Windows downloaded some beta stuff, and at the same time Radeon beta drivers became available, or maybe I just didn't see them initially. Now everything seems to be working.
I have the Koolance EXC 800 external chiller working for the video cards, and it looks like it will cool all four GPU's quite well. It is set for ambient for now, because all of the metallic quick couplers were getting condensation, and I need to insulate them. I will post pictures soon, but it looks terrible right now with hoses and wires all over the place.

Additional Comment:

Flashed the bios today. I was hoping that would smooth things out as far as compatibility. On reboot only a black screen. Switched over to bios number 2, and, possibly due to lack of sleep, flashed that one using a different method. Now black screen on both. Fortunately, the post indicators showed PCIe device problem. Disconnected video card number 2 and now back in business. Probably need to change some bios settings to get it working again. As a side note, bios number 2 turns out to be protected against flashing, so maybe coincidence?

Additional Comment:

Now running coolant to video cards 10 degrees F below ambient without condensation. The GPU temps now running high 70's F. Anxious to get the bare metal couplers insulated to try cooler temps. Using Norprene hose. Not very pretty, but much less chance of condensation as compared with other tubing, I think.

Additional Comment:

Computer working except for odd issue if gaming. simply can't game due to getting random black screen. See thread under general. Tried stress testing GPU, all 4 (2 cards) at once, to get a baseline before turning temps much below ambient. Trips breaker on power strip. I think 15 amp. Have second power strip coming to plug into another outlet, hopefully on different house circuit. Will plug one of the chillers into that.

Added 09/07/16 See general section for details. While trying to put the cards in another computer, found one card likely defective since it did not work in the other computer. Then damaged the good card. Now looking at GTX 1080 SEA HAWK EK X. At least that comes with full cover water block, and I don't have to worry about voiding the warranty by placing a block on a different one. Like the defective one I am using for a paperweight.

Added 09/10/16 GTX 1080 SEA HAWK EK X came today. Heavier than it looks, so ordered a used MSI Gaming Series Graphics Card Bolster (H01-0001719). I have been using a EVGA GeForce GTX 970 SSC ACX2.0 Fallout 4 edition that was ordered for another computer, and everything is working very well now on high but not ultra game settings, and finally using the full 3440x1440. Hopefully I will have time to install the liquid cooled card tomorrow. I will be using the Koolance EXC-800 chiller. Thinking about ordering another SEAHAWK GPU. If it doesn't make much difference in performance, I would use it in my other computer and give the air cooled one to one of my grandsons.
So far the LD PC-V10 chiller setup is consistently keeping the CPU case in low 40'sF, and the cores at about 23-24F. Haven't seen much change so far with minor overclocking. I don't see any way with the way this chiller is set up to go any colder, but there should be a way to bypass the controls. The compressor doesn't run that much, so I believe it could reach much colder temperatures. Maybe use one of my old Aquacomputer controllers?

Added 09/17/16 So far a terrible fail. See thread under general, "black screen".
I am 99% sure I have a defective motherboard, and possibly one graphics card. I don't know if something I did during the prep or not. I can only run one graphics card on that motherboard, and it will work in any slot. I had tried the system out previously and it seemed to work, so unsure what happened.

Added 09/19/16: There is moisture under the silicone rubber around the CPU. The silicone rubber seemed tight against the board, but peeled off mostly in one piece. I used The circuit board cleaner, followed by CRC electrical cleaner to blast the silicone dielectric grease out of the CPU socket. Both cleaners did a partial job removing the conformal coating, so will need to use something else to finish the job. There were three pins in the CPU socket that were rotated slightly out of position, and were easily repositioned with fine tipped tweezers. I know these were not out of position when the CPU was placed, and suspect the pull against the CPU from the grease on removal or possibly pushed out of place by pressure from the grease when I initially clamped the CPU down. I would recommend using the minimum amount of grease, and very slowly clamping the CPU. Then maybe doing a couple of trial clamping and removal to see if pins being rotated out of position. So major problems with this attempt at using new materials. I think the silicone rubber conducts the cold too well and frost forms on the surface. Has this been a problem with the art eraser? If not, the art eraser remains the superior method. The black screen problems could have been caused by the CPU pin rotation of three pins, moisture against the circuit board, or some unrelated thing. I will be trying this board again with air cooled system to see if it works better when dried out.
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Last edited by doggonit55; 09-24-2016 at 08:04 PM. Reason: Pictures
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