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Old 06-22-2016, 10:34 AM   #1
clipperjay
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Copper heal me!

I'm bored this week due to injury so decided to make a Pc case made from copper I've searched for examples and many seem to be solid structures but no actual water flowing through the copper tubes to aid cooling??
A few issues I think people have thought about:
1) Carbon from heat causes build up and clogging due to carbon from the heat.
2) Copper is bloody expensive.
3) Copper is not the lightest materials to use.
4) Mixing metals and water causing galvanic corrosion
5) Pump strong enough for flow?

I've started cutting the pipe work and trial fit as I go along, but this is where I stand after a few hours of making it up as I go along.

Still to work out connecting G1/4 fitting to the main system blocking or capping tubing that does not have water flow.
Standoffs for placement of componets.
So far used 15mm and 22mm copper pipe for structure, with 45 degree elbows and four reducers to 15mm plus Tee's for inner pipe work.
By the time I've finished I would probaby use about 7 metres of copper give or take for mistakes.


Last edited by clipperjay; 06-22-2016 at 10:43 AM. Reason: stop double posting
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:52 PM   #2
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Interesting
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Old 06-24-2016, 07:05 AM   #3
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Thanks Spartacus!
Well I've been racking my brain last night as it was bad weather and got no sleep so decided to work a bit more being restless. I'm going to use what I have and not go down the custom fab route so the easiest solution is usually the best over the years.
Dremel and vice out I decided to get over the mounting copper bars with Tees these bars will have no water flow and will be purely for standoffs and mounting frames for parts as I cannot drill through any copper with water flow and kinda see why people gave up and only did a frame only!









Additional Comment:

Started to roughly measure out possible componets PSU RADS MOBO etc....
Looks like its getting there!
Tackled the two in and out puts for the piping I think 3/8" reducer on the 15mm will work?







Last edited by clipperjay; 06-24-2016 at 07:05 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:22 PM   #4
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Oh yeah subbed.
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Old 06-25-2016, 03:33 AM   #5
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Thanks BlastMaster! Nice to see an old Guard!

Anyhoot the one thing which was going to be a pita was the mother board placement due to the nature of copper and water flow I have to be careful about where this is placed so the natural position would be upright and exposure to leaks would be minimal.
As you can see the horizontal pipe is going to be apart of the cooling system and I will not be able to drill or cut into this! So two vertical standalone copper bars will be supporting the motherboards face plate.
The question is to have it inside the case or out???





The choice was outside as this left me decent space to mount the faceplate and enough clearance of 244mm x 300mm which I recall is around the Matx diemensions?


[URL=http://s202.photobucket.com/user/Clipperjay/media/PhaseCooling/20160624_112308.jpg.html][/URL
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:16 AM   #6
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Interested. Subbed.
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Old 06-26-2016, 02:17 AM   #7
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Thanks MR Scott!

Next on the list was rad mounting, still working towards making this flush and mounting right. Worst thing about metal custom frames are the vibrations and copper being soft can wear holes in parts you really don't want.
So some padding and rubber damping will be needed.




I've started to solder some bottom pieces and its been awhile using lead solder with control flames.
I'ts going okay, but the problem of clean welds still present itself as an issue due to the silver colour of solder. Copper to copper would require higher melting point and carbonised the copper too much!
Once the whole frame is welded I will run a pump through the whole frame to flush out any copper and solder contamines.
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Old 06-26-2016, 02:19 PM   #8
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Solder it and then paint it copper? or paint the whole thing when done?
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Old 06-27-2016, 05:28 AM   #9
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Hey Spartacus Yes I have already ordered the paint, it came this morning and the welds are okay, here are some pictures.
I'm ordering some copper, stainless steel plates and polycarb, will have to wait for them to be delivered before I can move on. But essentially the space frame is in place and looks more like working art than a functional PC case.
I was hoping to polish the copper and spray some laquire over the clean frame? But not sure if the laquire is going to react with the copper paint so will be doing some testing of the best spraying technique to determine if it all goes well together?
Sad thing is I don't have any new componets to use for this build, it was to fill and kill the time so kinda sad as I don't want to spend U$ or 1000 on another computer I don't need, unless I gut the G5 for parts which could work.






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Old 06-27-2016, 02:12 PM   #10
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I'm gonna just ask this: Couldn't you use a Silver based Solder to help avoid the microbial growth and effect some of the electrolytic transfer issues inherent in using multiple different metals in a liquid cooling system?

I am being serious here I don't know. I do know that an acid core lead based Soldier works much better for sweat soldering copper.

Additional Comment:

Added: As the copper oxidizes over time you will be faced with another issue: the copper paint won't age or take on the same patina as the piping. Do you intend to paint the entire frame or just paint over your soldered joints?

Last edited by BlastMaster; 06-27-2016 at 02:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 06-28-2016, 02:39 AM   #11
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Hey Blastmaster I usually use silver rods to braize two different types of metals, but @ over 100 dollars a Kilo in rods, I'll use the lead for now.
Funny enough the silver roads only have about 25 to 45% silver in them anyways zinc and other materials are usually mixed in.
I used lead because I won't be drinking the water from the pump LOL! plus it has low melting point so less carbon build up to clogg the head and pump.
TBF I have loads of lead solder and can only be use for these types of projects. I'm one for using what I have.
To deal with the mix metals I have some anti freeze around 10% should stop any corrosion in the system I hope?

Anyhoot I tested the paint and wow its dam close in colour!
Here is the tube I tested one side is paint the other laquire, both side had been polished before I sprayed with both cans on it!
You judge but I'm masking the joints using the paint lightly then a final coat of laquire after its been polished up! Dirty end is laquire side






Last edited by clipperjay; 06-29-2016 at 02:42 AM.
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:34 PM   #12
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I was thinking about the Silver ability to kill microorganisms in the lines as well but EL Transfer will be a much bigger problem and likely cause buildup if not flushed regularly.

I love the industrial look and this has some serious potential.

That cost is definitely prohibitive!
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Old 06-29-2016, 02:40 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlastMaster View Post
I was thinking about the Silver ability to kill microorganisms in the lines as well but EL Transfer will be a much bigger problem and likely cause buildup if not flushed regularly.

I love the industrial look and this has some serious potential.

That cost is definitely prohibitive!
Funny thing about copper since bronze ages copper has been revered as magical in its properties! A recent study on battling super infections in hospitals demonstrated a good example for this. Two rooms one had quite a bit of copper fittings the other plastic and inert metals both were daily swabed to determine the levels of bacterial infections and funny the one with copper had a dramatically lower level of bacterial. This natural antimicrobia seems to be in highly concentrated forms in copper and silver!
Its quite simple the copper ions binds enzymes so they can't reproduce or live whilst copper ions are flowing into the organic matter (bacteria in this case).
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Old 06-29-2016, 11:11 AM   #14
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My last water cooled system had copper tubed radiators and a hand machined by me and a friend water block. Didn't stop Algae buildup. A silver Killcoil did however. Wound up putting a TBSP of antifreeze into the distilled water. The only issue we had after that was evap over time.
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:38 PM   #15
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I look after a lot of goldfish and know way too much about Algae!
Killcoil heard of it guess its a silver coil?
I use this for many years its cheap and works usually stick it in the resivior.
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Old 06-29-2016, 05:07 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clipperjay View Post
I look after a lot of goldfish and know way too much about Algae!
Killcoil heard of it guess its a silver coil?
I use this for many years its cheap and works usually stick it in the resivior.
I have fish also. I use the same thing you do.
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Old 06-30-2016, 03:23 AM   #17
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Hey Mr Scott great to see another fish keeper!
Still waiting upon parts to arrive for the case
I've ordered some corsair parts and custom ones I'm still trying to logistically work out for mounting componets.
I'm undecided about getting 3mm black perspex for the mobo and then use the stainless for backing? Can't remember if the mobo needs to be earthed well via the standoffs, or the cables will be enough to ground it enough??
I'm at that stage where I'm finding it difficult to place componets without actually having the componets which means spending bucks LOL!











Any suggestions on mounting the mobo would be appreciated indeedie!

Last edited by clipperjay; 07-01-2016 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 03-28-2017, 01:26 PM   #18
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Been awhile I might finish this off where did I get to?
Well I bought a EVGA G2 power supply and it was brand new untill I saw the scratch marks so at that point I stopped I think?
Well I bought another power supply and might start it and finish it LOL.
Will be using an old G31 board with a Xeon chip and recycle my SSD samsung. My 2005 shuttle finally died found burnt Power connectors I think GPU drew too much power and over heated the contacts but who knows!
I'll update as I go along though!









Additional Comment:

Well started to fix components to the frame with flexibility of removal when this becomes obsolete. Three Alu right angle brackets I found left over from another project and some screws later.
Works well at an elevated angle enough for cables to be mounted top or bottom, but have not decided until I know the orientation of mobo and other components.
Project slow, but hey ho got some time to play will update more when I can.






Last edited by clipperjay; 03-28-2017 at 01:26 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 03-31-2017, 08:24 AM   #19
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Mounted roughly the MOBO onto brass standoffs and might secure the extra mounting holes on the MObo directly to the stainless behind it as a sound card and GPU will make this heavy. Plus water header and brackets.





Tried to work out how the I/O plate was going to show and fit I can leave it exposed or incase it into stainless and mount a 90mm fan next to it for that OEM feel LOL.

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