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Old 08-13-2010, 02:43 PM   #141
Grand Poobah
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As a side note, unfortunately, the multimeter I am using is from the 1980's or something. This is what it looks like:
http://images.drillspot.com/pimages/1626/162682_300.jpg

it's just the settings are slightly different. So I'm not sure how accurate that is, especially since it isn't even at 20V, it's at 50V, (unless that just means how far up the Voltage is measured).

I know my BIOS is inaccurate and everything, but here's what it reports:
VCore Voltage: 1.39V
3.3V Voltage: 3.32V
5V Voltage: 4.83V
12V Voltage: 12.09V

These numbers smack right into the happy place of ATX's measurements, but again, the BIOS cannot be trusted. I'm not sure if my multimeter can be either.
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:25 PM   #142
BWX232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grand Poobah View Post
As a side note, unfortunately, the multimeter I am using is from the 1980's or something. This is what it looks like:
http://images.drillspot.com/pimages/1626/162682_300.jpg

it's just the settings are slightly different. So I'm not sure how accurate that is, especially since it isn't even at 20V, it's at 50V, (unless that just means how far up the Voltage is measured).

I know my BIOS is inaccurate and everything, but here's what it reports:
VCore Voltage: 1.39V
3.3V Voltage: 3.32V
5V Voltage: 4.83V
12V Voltage: 12.09V

These numbers smack right into the happy place of ATX's measurements, but again, the BIOS cannot be trusted. I'm not sure if my multimeter can be either.
Just go to radioshack and get a $20 digital multimeter. I'v had the same one for something like 15 years and it works perfectly -still.
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:28 AM   #143
Agencyman
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Scary reading from Speedfan, searched right to this thread

My 600W Thermaltake is not so wimpy that mapping the Milky Way should drop the 12V rail to 9.33V, and VCC (1.5V) to 0.9V.

The pic shows to my relief, that 12.19V idle and 12.16V under a fair load, maybe 50-60%. I only let BOINC have 50%.

BTW, worst-case, which is for me OCCT Linpack, two HDDs turning, outboard 1Tb USB powered, O.C.d to the now normal everyday 3497 MHz; still 12.16V.

Relieved, to say the least.

Bruce

E5300 Wolfdale 45nm 2.6 Ghz dual core; @3497 MHz
MSi P43-C51 motherboard
Cooler Master 212+ with single fan
GeForce N8400GS; 512 MB
4Gb Crucial matched stix; 2GB DDR3 1066
Thermaltake 600W PS
Cooler Master 310 case has the optional front intake fan installed
Helping to Save the world; BOINC; orbit@home, and MilkyWay
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Old 01-06-2011, 02:58 AM   #144
shaneshane1
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In reference to the tutorial: With the black probe you should be able to connect it to the PC's chassis if its connected to the motherboard and its metal, or even the case of the PSU... no need to reconnect it all over the place every time! (earth or 0V is "common" throughout the whole system!) and then just test all your voltages with the red probe! saves a lot of hassle and time... just a tip if nobody knew...
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Old 01-06-2011, 07:56 PM   #145
krone6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grand Poobah View Post
As a side note, unfortunately, the multimeter I am using is from the 1980's or something. This is what it looks like:
http://images.drillspot.com/pimages/1626/162682_300.jpg

it's just the settings are slightly different. So I'm not sure how accurate that is, especially since it isn't even at 20V, it's at 50V, (unless that just means how far up the Voltage is measured).

I know my BIOS is inaccurate and everything, but here's what it reports:
VCore Voltage: 1.39V
3.3V Voltage: 3.32V
5V Voltage: 4.83V
12V Voltage: 12.09V

These numbers smack right into the happy place of ATX's measurements, but again, the BIOS cannot be trusted. I'm not sure if my multimeter can be either.
Analogs have some advantages over digital. If i am right they have a much more accurate reading. I'm taking a guess as this is almost 2 years ago when my teacher told us the advantges and disadvantages.
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Old 12-06-2011, 03:51 AM   #146
DerekMessina
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Thanks! Now I understand why we shouldn't fully trust softwares. Vote sticky.
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:11 AM   #147
Jamebonds1
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What is wrong with people? Why do somebody have to use software to check volt? The only way to check real volt is PSU tester or voltmeter.

Plus voltage on BIOS is for CPU and RAM.
Not all BIOS make right voltage but mine do have right voltage.
Again, BIOS don't check voltage but other chip do check voltage.

Software for check PSU's volt is very bad idea, it will give you false position. It will make people buy and replace good PSU by accident (which people actually think that is bad PSU)
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