EXTREME Overclocking Forums
Home | Reviews | Forums | Downloads | RealTime Pricing Engine | Folding Stats Contact Us


Go Back   EXTREME Overclocking Forums > Getting Started > Essential Tutorials, Guides, & Info

Welcome Guest Visitor! Please Register, It's Free and Fun To Participate!
The EXTREME Overclocking Forums are a place for people to learn how to overclock and tweak their PC's components like the CPU, memory (RAM), or video card in order to gain the maximum performance out of their system. There are lots of discussions about new processors, graphics cards, cooling products, power supplies, cases, and so much more!

You are currently viewing our boards as a "guest" which gives you limited access to view most discussions. You need to register before you can post: click the register link to proceed. Before you register, please read the forum rules. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload your own pictures, and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple, and absolutely free! To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

After you have registered and read the forum rules, you can check out the FAQ for more information on using the forum. We hope you enjoy your stay here!

Note To Spammers: We do not allow unsolicited advertising! Spam is usually reported & deleted within minutes of it being posted, so don't waste your time (or ours)!


Please Register to Post a Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 06-30-2005, 09:16 AM   #41
ForceOfN4ture
YouSunkMyPlanetShip!
ForceOfN4ture's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 979
Last Seen: 07-19-2015
Age: 29
From: Pennsylvania
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Take it outside, you guys!

I'm gonna keep my current recommendation because it's very practical.

Any glaring non-reservoir-related errors or emissions?
-BC
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 06-30-2005, 09:18 AM   #42
eboy0
"LLL" Club
eboy0's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 1,870
Last Seen: 02-24-2007
Age: 28
From: Chicago, Illinoi
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Maybe post what people should do if they do get leakage onto their parts.
Ukraine  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 06-30-2005, 09:27 AM   #43
Zer010
Powered By Gatesware
Zer010's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 1,832
Last Seen: 05-15-2017
Age: 32
From: Orange County,CA
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Awesome frigin guide Force I bookmarking this link as a reference for teh noobies.
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 06-30-2005, 09:33 AM   #44
ForceOfN4ture
YouSunkMyPlanetShip!
ForceOfN4ture's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 979
Last Seen: 07-19-2015
Age: 29
From: Pennsylvania
iTrader: 0 / 0%
If they do get leakage?

I was actually hoping that they'd be smart enough to figure out that they should turn everything off and try to mop up the mess...

I don't want to spend too much time detailing the RMA process, as that'll definitely scare some people away.

-BC
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 06-30-2005, 11:15 AM   #45
switch32763
Enjoys eating mobos
switch32763's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 415
Last Seen: 02-12-2015
Age: 28
From: Daytona, FL
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Maybe just say if they didn't leak test and spilled water all over their parts at one point or another it can be fixed as long as said parts were off. Use a blowdrier and IMO also let it dry for 24 hours.
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 07-02-2005, 05:01 AM   #46
firephoenixctk
Athena's Loyal Saint
firephoenixctk's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 413
Last Seen: 08-07-2016
Age: 32
From: Hamilton
iTrader: 0 / 0%
nice guide dude, could you also add someting in about optimal position for the rad? Is there such thing as an optimal pos for it?
Also i noticed some people using aliminium fans as opposed to the normal plastic fans is there an advantage of this also?

Last edited by firephoenixctk; 07-02-2005 at 05:07 AM.
Scotland  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 07-02-2005, 06:36 AM   #47
ForceOfN4ture
YouSunkMyPlanetShip!
ForceOfN4ture's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 979
Last Seen: 07-19-2015
Age: 29
From: Pennsylvania
iTrader: 0 / 0%
The aluminum fans aren't any better than normal fans; how well a fan will perform is based mainly on how much 'static pressure' it can generate. If static pressure isn't listed, you have to rely on CFM (which isn't half as important), and get a 38mm-thick fan (because they generally generate more pressure).

As far as positioning the radiator, anywhere were the fans can suck relatively cool air through it will work. I'm a fan of removing extra drive cages and putting it in the very front of the case so air is drawn in through the front grate, but it can also be positioned so it sucks air from inside the case and pushes it out the back, the top, heck, even the bottom will work (as long as you cut a hole and the case is raised up on feet to let the air escape without too much interference). Mounting the radiator externally or even bolting it to the top of the case are also effective.

-BC
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 07-02-2005, 05:36 PM   #48
firephoenixctk
Athena's Loyal Saint
firephoenixctk's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 413
Last Seen: 08-07-2016
Age: 32
From: Hamilton
iTrader: 0 / 0%
cool thanks, i know that the rad could be mounted anywhere but i was wondering if there was any place that is proven to give better performance.
Scotland  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 07-03-2005, 10:37 AM   #49
Jimmer411
I Eat Dells!
Jimmer411's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 821
Last Seen: 01-28-2010
Age: 34
From: Puyallup, WA
iTrader: 0 / 0%
my experiences with T-Lines is they are too much of a pain to bleed and fill. and resavoirs take too long to bleed out the air and are often hard to fill/drain.

personally i go with a closed loop, just use a containter that i can fully submerge the pump in and leave the inlet side of the pump open. during that time i just tilt the heatercore and the case around and tap on my pump some to remove air in the system. i put my ear to the top of my rad to listen for air as well (sounds like water swooshing and trickling if there is air) and when its out i connect the hose to the inlet of the pump and dry it off with dry washcloths. imo this is the cleanest setup and works perfectly well if you have an externally housed setup. i did the same thing with my girlfriends setup, and shes got it all housed inside an Antec Lanboy, and I had no problems.

If the woman is pleased its gotta be good >.>

great guide BTW^^
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 07-03-2005, 03:34 PM   #50
ForceOfN4ture
YouSunkMyPlanetShip!
ForceOfN4ture's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 979
Last Seen: 07-19-2015
Age: 29
From: Pennsylvania
iTrader: 0 / 0%
It can be kinda hard to get all of the air out of a dual-waterblocked system with a double heatercore and a pump to do it that way, but it's always an option. I'll add that quote to the guide.

Anything's better than a store-bought reservoir!
-BC
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 07-03-2005, 04:25 PM   #51
ForceOfN4ture
YouSunkMyPlanetShip!
ForceOfN4ture's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 979
Last Seen: 07-19-2015
Age: 29
From: Pennsylvania
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Two new additions, just for kicks:
--------------------------------
ULTRA-CHEAP
Wanna watercool just your CPU on the cheap?
Here’s the setup for you!
(Ordered from www.VoyeurMods.com):
Mod-Your-Own radiator ($20 @ Autozone)
Build-Your-Own shroud: http://www.overclockers.com/tips1138/ ($2)
Any old 120mm fan you have lying round

CPU: Swiftech MCW6002 $43
Pump: DangerDen CSP-MAG $55
Clearflex 60 (1/2” ID), 10’ $7.50
‘T’-fitting (1/2” OD) $1.25
Black Hose Clamps (15): $6.75
TOTAL: $133.50 + Shipping

Cap the T-line with a dead AA battery
Use a 10% solution of antifreeze in distilled water as a coolant
(I assume you have some Arctic Silver 5 Thermal compound; if not, add $6)
(No 120mm fans? $10 w/shipping for two here: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co....asp?dept=1047)

Here are some good upgrades to that basic system:
Get the D5 (the best pump available) instead: ADD $16
Cool the graphics card! (DD Maze4 Acetal Low-Profile): ADD $43


The LUDICROUSLY POWERFUL liquidcooling setup:
No expense spared! No real budget? Go for it.
CPU: Little River Silver G5 (http://www.employees.org/~slf/lrwb/)
[[If the $200 is too much of a hurt, try the Swiftech Storm G4 for $76!]]
GPU: DangerDen Maze4 Acetal Low-Profile block
[[Two of those, because you obviously run an SLI system!]]
Pump: DangerDen D5
Radiator: Weaponized(TM?) Premodded Double Heatercore w/Shroud and SanAce Fans
10’ of Tygon Tubing (1/2” ID)
[[3.5X as expensive as Clearflex and the only benefit is additional clarity, but why not?!]]
15 Hose Clamps (Nylon or Worm-Drive, your choice)
Polypropylene ‘T’ fitting
Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound
10% Antifreeze/Distilled Water coolant
Some kind of awesome water dye (if you feel like it!)
TOTAL: Umm... Ow. Plus Shipping.
----------------------------------
-BC
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 07-27-2005, 04:33 PM   #52
bjoci
mes que un club
bjoci's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 1,749
Last Seen: 12-24-2016
Age: 39
From: North Carolina
iTrader: 18 / 100%
Excellent guide. Thank you. I bought everything by the guide. Hopefully I can have it running by tommorow.

One lil observation tho:

IF U HAVE P4C800E-D one screw from the DD Acetal Maze 4 is gonna hit the Northbridge heatsink.

If u want to add that to the guide......I'll take a pic tonite and post it.

Thanx again.
Romania  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 10-10-2005, 06:08 AM   #53
Demi
Porkchop sandwiches!
Demi's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 1,018
Last Seen: 03-29-2014
Age: 34
From: Ramstein AB
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Awesome guide mate, anyone know of a place to buy these that shippes to APOs? Also i leave my computer running 24/7 is there anything you can do to help protect your rig in the event of pump failure?

Last edited by Demi; 10-10-2005 at 09:58 AM.
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 10-22-2005, 07:36 AM   #54
ForceOfN4ture
YouSunkMyPlanetShip!
ForceOfN4ture's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 979
Last Seen: 07-19-2015
Age: 29
From: Pennsylvania
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Actually, yes there is. I run my setup 24/7 as well.

Given, if you use good-quality nylon hose clamps, leaks just aren't something that's going to happen. Pump failure is the singular danger.

The best way to protect your components if that should happen would be to just set the 'max shutdown temperature' in your BIOS. With good watercooling your temps are always going to be fairly low, so you can set the autoshutdown temperature pretty low as well. If the CPU starts to heat up to temperatures around where it would indicate that there was some kind of problem, it will automatically shut off.

Hope this helps.
-BC
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 10-23-2005, 03:38 PM   #55
ben8s8
Learning To Overclock
Regular Member
 
Posts: 61
Last Seen: 12-10-2006
Age: 33
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Why is it bad to cool graphics card memory??
United Kingdom  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 10-23-2005, 04:01 PM   #56
^^NaS^^
big round ball
^^NaS^^'s Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 1,774
Last Seen: 04-26-2011
Age: 26
iTrader: 0 / 0%
man i dont think stickies work any more cuz everyone looks straight past them to the "start new thread" button. i say hide it from the newbies

its not bad to cool it but if u cool it too much then the video car can get ****ed off and stop working
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 11-11-2005, 11:01 AM   #57
AngryAlpaca
Mad Warranty Voider
AngryAlpaca's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 5,425
Last Seen: 02-25-2007
Age: 29
From: Canada
iTrader: 1 / 100%
New things that may be of interest:

PA160, a **** good rad: http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...&cat=15&page=1 touch expensive, and a bit large, but beats the crap out of BIP's, BIX's and HE's.

and the CSP-MAG pump: http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...&cat=23&page=1 I'm not sure that I trust it yet. Their last product fell apart in 6 months, but this one seems to be the good one. Relatively cheap, DC powered, moderate performance, small size, and fairly quiet.
Canada  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 11-17-2005, 06:06 PM   #58
ForceOfN4ture
YouSunkMyPlanetShip!
ForceOfN4ture's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 979
Last Seen: 07-19-2015
Age: 29
From: Pennsylvania
iTrader: 0 / 0%
I do need to update with some of the new stuff that's come out recently.

As for heatercores, VoyeurMods has a full selection of low-cost singlepass models now. I'd be interested in finding out how well they work.

Thanks for the info!

-BC
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 12-09-2005, 11:12 PM   #59
wazzledoozle
Banned!
Banned
Don't ask why unless you want to join them.
You say to trip the PSU to run the pump while testing, but in the link to tripping a PS it says to not let it run with no load.

Would an average pump be enough load to not destroy a psu?
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Old 12-11-2005, 12:05 AM   #60
switch32763
Enjoys eating mobos
switch32763's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Posts: 415
Last Seen: 02-12-2015
Age: 28
From: Daytona, FL
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Yes it should be fine as long as the PSU isn't a 3 dollar throw away.
United States  Offline
    Register to Reply to This Post
Sponsored Links:
Please Register to Post a Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:34 PM.

Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, EXTREME Overclocking