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Old 12-11-2005, 10:31 AM   #61
AngryAlpaca
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Er, Switch, he was asking if it was enough, not too much.

Typically the load used is a fan or two, which constitutes about 6W total. A pump is plenty.
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Old 12-19-2005, 05:47 PM   #62
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Any word on this 'Apogee'? The numbers are good, and the price is right...

How about the real-world review?

-BC
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Old 12-23-2005, 06:23 PM   #63
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this is an amazing and by far the best watercooling manual that i have read that is short and to the point... great job man!
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Old 12-23-2005, 08:08 PM   #64
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Real world review results: it's about the same as the Storm. Problem is, the milling is not top notch. Some shavings have been found inside [firmly attached, but still there]
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Old 12-23-2005, 11:15 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryAlpaca
Real world review results: it's about the same as the Storm. Problem is, the milling is not top notch. Some shavings have been found inside [firmly attached, but still there]
I agree my research has provided the same results, everyone that uses them say they get great results and the few that have had negative feed back have always been in regards to the shavings found inside the block. So as long as you do a little footwork and examine the block prior to using it you should be fine.
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Old 12-24-2005, 12:29 AM   #66
Lurid
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When you say firmly attached do you mean...attached as in I can't get rid of it or do you mean as in I can sand it or something and remove the shaving to keep it from impeding flow? Since i'm looking into purchasing one of these....
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Old 12-24-2005, 02:52 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurid
When you say firmly attached do you mean...attached as in I can't get rid of it or do you mean as in I can sand it or something and remove the shaving to keep it from impeding flow? Since i'm looking into purchasing one of these....
Most people indicated that they were firmly attached(as in won't fall off on it's own) but that they removed them simply by working at them with tweezers. So it should be easy to remove once spotted, and wouldn't likely cause immediate damage to your pump if you used the block but has the potential to eventually work itself free and cause damage later if not manually removed.
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Old 12-24-2005, 11:29 AM   #68
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From what I heard they were scraping them out with screwdrivers. It'd take a helluva pump to dislodge them.
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Old 01-13-2006, 10:05 PM   #69
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Hahahah, screwdrivers, are you kidding me?

No worries there.

I have two three-day weekends in a row coming up, I'll try to run a routine update then.

-BC

EDIT:
Edited by far the most important section, colloquially known as 'What To Buy'.
More later.
:TIDE

Last edited by ForceOfN4ture; 01-13-2006 at 11:18 PM.
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Old 02-16-2006, 06:40 AM   #70
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Is a 2l min flow adequate for Swiftech Storm!?
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Old 04-06-2006, 05:37 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zest
Is a 2l min flow adequate for Swiftech Storm!?
Yep, the recommend at least 1.5L for optimal perfomance. Actually up to 8L, but anything over that would require a hugh power pump that would generate too much heat to be of benefit.


Additional Comment:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForceOfN4ture
If you want an idea of what this thing is going to look like, here it is:
http://img251.imageshack.us/gal.php?...apsmall5vg.jpg
Note that I used a Swiftech MCW-6002 CPU Waterblock (which is just as good as the TDX)

Just make sure that your fans are pulling air through the core, not pushing.
Aluminum fans provide no additional benefit.
I see that in your pictures you used the exact same model fan that I have from Evercool. It's the AL12025.

Also I see you suggest that fans should be pulling air through the core and not pushing it through.

Well one problem, you can see it in your pictures. Actually it's not a problem, more of a preference thing. If you see the way that that model fan mounts in order to pull air through, it's actually showing the VERY ugly rear side of the fan. The nice all aluminum color side is the side that actually does the pulling and is unfortuantely the side that also faces down where no one can see!

I guess in some ******ation, the designer forgot which way the fan blades where curved towards. They almost got this one perfect, if they had realized at the time before they started to mass produce this product they maybe could have had a real winner of a product.

Would you recommend switching the power wires in order for it operate with the nice side facing up? If that can be done, would it make a difference in how much air that moves through and the static pressure?

I see that the fan blades are curved and I'm assuming that it's for the best air flow in that direction. When it's reversed, how much, if any efficiency will I lose?

I purchased these fans with the intent that they would be displayed. Unfortuantely at the time, I didn't think to ask the seller if the all siver color side does the pushing or pulling of air. If I had known what what I know now back then, I probably wouldn't have purchased the fan and saved an extra few bucks and purchased the best 120MM fan out there. Which happens to be an all black and traditional color design.

Some may say suggest then why don't I just paint the white side silver? Well as you can see the silver side exposes the fan completely, which is really nice and all you see is the silver color. If I paint the ugly side silver, I will still have the motor bracket in the way and I have the radioactive symbol fan guard. Once I put that on, you will still see the fan bracket. When it's on the all silver side, it's very very nice and nothing besides the center of the fan blocks the looks of the fan guard.

The only other idea that i may have is to purchase another 120MM fan and rip out the fan blades along with the motor, and somehow modify it to fit into the aluminum housing. If that should work and I can get the part with the blades showing and have the fan still pull air through the heater core, I could paint the blades all silver and solve my problem. The only thing with that is, are all fans designed the same way? Do all of them have the blade only part facing down and the motor facing up when pulling air through?

Hopefully someone has a good suggestion, or even better, ran into the same problem and has fixed it somehow.

Last edited by XyBeRz; 04-06-2006 at 05:47 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 05-31-2006, 05:22 PM   #72
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for watercooling is aluminum or copper better and why?

nm found my answer

Diamond (2300 W/mK)
Pyrolytic Graphite (1950 W/mK)
Silver (429 W/mK),
Pure Copper (401 W/mK), and
Pure Aluminum (237 W/mK).

http://episteme.arstechnica.com/6/ub...85&m=106091502

Last edited by Murmur; 05-31-2006 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 06-01-2006, 03:38 PM   #73
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Hey everyone, I have a question about heater core performance. I know everyone likes the 120.2 performance, but does anyone know how this compares to a 86 Chevette heatercore? The heater core is approximately 13cm x 13cm. I hear heatercores have better performance and the heatercore appears to be more compact than a 120.2.

I'm interested in something fairly compact but still able to shed lots of heat.

Will it be enough to cool an X2 cpu, and GPU (and potentially a second GPU) ?
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Old 06-01-2006, 03:43 PM   #74
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proccy yes, proccy and gfx possibly but i HIGHLY doubt it, 2 gfx cards and a proccy most defintaely not.
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Old 06-01-2006, 06:45 PM   #75
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for a cpu + 2 gpus i recommand getting this rad for the best performance using a Yate Lon @ 7 or 5v which si tottaly silent and in the same time as i said the best performance

http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcqposerab1.html

mine is in the way to me form the USA, hopefully will arrive in 2 weeks
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Old 06-12-2006, 05:37 PM   #76
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I would really appreciate if you would add a little more info on the Maze 4 GPU. What I mean by that is that when I bought the whole thing I only found out that on a 7800gt and a lot of the nvidia cards, the ramsinks get in the way of the Maze 4 outlets. We have the trim halfof the BGA ramsink in order for it to fit correctly.
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Old 06-13-2006, 01:20 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaFrOuT
for a cpu + 2 gpus i recommand getting this rad for the best performance using a Yate Lon @ 7 or 5v which si tottaly silent and in the same time as i said the best performance

http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcqposerab1.html

mine is in the way to me form the USA, hopefully will arrive in 2 weeks
Hmm, that might be a little too big for my case. I may be able to mount it on the bottom (outside the case and raise the case up a few inches). A 2x120 rad isn't going to be big enough for 1 cpu + 2x gpus ?
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Old 06-13-2006, 01:44 PM   #78
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why not mount it on top of the case or @ the back using a swiftech radbox
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Old 06-14-2006, 11:33 AM   #79
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I'll have to take some measurements but I think I may be able to mount it at the back.

I didn't want to mount it on the top because I was planning on mounting my pump in the bottom of the case and didn't want the tubing traversing the height of the case twice if I could avoid it.
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Old 06-18-2006, 11:48 PM   #80
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I've got a question:
When looking at radiators at the provided link in the guide I noticed that radiators come in single and double pass, I also noticed that you say single pass are better. What is the difference between the two and what makes single pass better?

It seems obvious that double pass means that water passes twice through -- I wouldn't doubt that I'm wrong -- but wouldn't double pass be better?
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