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Old 10-14-2008, 06:00 PM   #21
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Yo, King, do you know of any household items that I can use for fan filters? My case is turning into an expensive dust storage bin.
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Old 10-14-2008, 06:10 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psykl0n View Post
Yo, King, do you know of any household items that I can use for fan filters? My case is turning into an expensive dust storage bin.
Pantyhose Seriously, sir, works like a charm. Just stretch it (not to the point of ripping). Glue it down with silicon (exhaust) or using a wire mesh over it and under the fan (intake) to prevent it from bieng ripped and so it can be removed if desired. To clean, simply brush of any dust. Do not vacum the thing or it probably will rip depending on how powerful the suction is.
Good luck.
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Old 10-14-2008, 06:21 PM   #23
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Erm... I don't have any pantyhose, would anything else work? :/
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Old 10-15-2008, 11:20 AM   #24
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No, sir. Not to my knowledge. Anything else would block too much air. Seriously sir, get some panyhose (sister\mother\girlfriend\shop) for a ghetto filter. I've tried it myself (the filter not the pantyhose ).
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:01 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by psykl0n View Post
Erm... I don't have any pantyhose, would anything else work? :/
No but you can go BUY them....

Nice guide...a cuple of things I would change/edit as well... I will put those together...

Additional Comment:

Quote:
Air cooling systems are composed of two subsystems: one for getting air into and out of the PC case, and another for dealing with air within the case and putting it to good use. First, the case airflow.
In the beginning, these fell into one of two categories: negative and positive pressure designs. Negative pressure cooling is the oldest, most common, and best performing type. Basically, the idea is to have exhaust fans expel air out from the case, creating a vacuum of sorts within the case, which sucks in new air from the various vents provided by the case. Positive pressure, also called reverse-flow designs, have intake fans where the exhaust would go, sucking air from the outside in, where the cool air would pass over the hottest components first. It also increased the pressure within the case, forcing the air out through the various case vents (which lead to much less dust accumulating within the case).
1. Positive pressure does not specifically mean intake where the exhuast is. It can be acheived by having more CFM in than out.
2. Positive pressure does NOT decrease dust. Think about it logically for just one second.

Quote:
Neutral pressure designs provide the best cooling.
You just said in the negative pressure section thats its the best

Quote:
This is because the exhaust fans are expelling air at the same rate as the intake fans are sucking air in. The result is a constant air flow, with no air waiting to get in or get out. This means that at any given time, new air is always present to carry heat away from a hot component. Today, I recommend every system be cooled like this. For it to work, simply have the CFM sum of all intake fans equal to the CFM sum of all exhaust fans.
I disagree with this. Too many variables to just state same CFM fans for intake/exhuast would equal that. In a perfectly sealed box sure, but then you still have other things bocking the CFMs.

Negative pressure (more exhuast than intake) insures that the hot spots that are inevitable within a case are minimized as there is air 'pulling' out of the case. Thats always been the general rule here

front/sides= intake
top/rear= exhuast

Always have more exhaust than intake.

Last edited by BabyGorilla; 10-15-2008 at 12:50 PM. Reason: Fixed! Thanks TJS!
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:12 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by tremexglok View Post
front/sides= exhaust
top/rear= intake
Strike that, reverse it.
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:32 PM   #27
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I see to-do edits piling up...
I'll wait till the weekend when I have a clear mind to check, recheck, and edit a bunch of stuff.

I would like to thank Mr.Scott and Tremexglok (where the hell did you come up with that user name? ) for thier critisisms and info. Thanks also to any and all who read my little attempt of a guide.
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:48 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by tjs3783 View Post
Strike that, reverse it.
haha oops hit post on teh way to meeting.. YES!
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Old 10-15-2008, 05:06 PM   #29
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Tremexglok (where the hell did you come up with that user name?
Dropped a beer bottle on the keyboard and that's what showed up on the screen.
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Old 10-15-2008, 06:31 PM   #30
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Dropped a baby bottle on the keyboard and that's what showed up on the screen.
Fixed.....
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Old 11-02-2008, 01:16 AM   #31
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very nice guide...thnx a lot...im planning on modifying my current air cooling system & this helps so much
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Old 11-02-2008, 01:18 AM   #32
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Edits still piling up!!

Quote:
Another mod that is disastrous is the removal of fan grills. Some modders like to remove them in the pursuit of greater air-flow, which can be substantial. However, those grills greatly reduce dust and foreign object intake and protect you from harm. Their advantages far outweigh increased airflow. Please, do not remove them.
This needs to be explained better. b/c not all cases are the same. If they have dustfilters on them, dont remove them, however if they dont, then you can remove them. Really, you can remove the dust filters as well as long as you understand there will be more dust in the rig. I guess all in all I dont agree with this line either.

(sorry, this just came up and the guy above posted about it in another thread confused b/c one guide says one thing, and the other guide different.)
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Old 11-02-2008, 10:31 AM   #33
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Yeah, yeah, I hear ya
I'm so darn busy (a procrastinator's excuse). But really, upgrade time is at hand and I have a family the size of the population of Louisiana to deal with on a daily basis... Doing it now.

There. Done, I think . Anything else you guys think needs to be added\removed\updated, please tell.

Last edited by KingBling; 11-02-2008 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 11-07-2008, 01:23 PM   #34
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Great guide for newbs like myself. Thanks KB. Could use a link to further air-flow discussions if anything.
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Old 11-17-2008, 05:35 AM   #35
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Thanks for updating!!

NEUTRAL pressure isnt the best either. It wasnt when you initially wrote it, why is it now? I would say negative would always be the best, but cant confirm it.
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Old 11-17-2008, 05:40 AM   #36
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+1 for negative pressure, in my 900 it works better and eliminates hot spots in the case
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Old 11-17-2008, 06:37 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tremexglok View Post
Thanks for updating!!

NEUTRAL pressure isnt the best either. It wasnt when you initially wrote it, why is it now? I would say negative would always be the best, but cant confirm it.
I used to be a negative pressure man myself but after a bunch of research I found Scott Mueller stating that neutral pressure schemes was the way to go. He is an athority in the industry and very much respected and so I said to myself "well he's the boss" - you can't argue with a man that mods the BIOSes of his cars
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Old 11-17-2008, 07:36 AM   #38
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Links please!

I dont buy it b/c there would be hot spots. If you have negative pressure, the hot spots would be circulating out a lot better.
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Old 11-17-2008, 09:47 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psykl0n View Post
Erm... I don't have any pantyhose, would anything else work? :/
A used dryer sheet works pretty good, aswell.

Nice guide, BTW.
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Old 11-22-2008, 11:07 AM   #40
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Hi,

Awesome guide ... Lots of great info. Just one thing missing though

no mention of the use of the "PWM" feature of some coolers.

don

Additional Comment:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Scott View Post
OK. This statement right here for one.

FDD's are NOT useless. USB flash drives are not as reliable and have a higher failure rate than floppys. FDD's die no quicker than any other component. I still use a couple 10 year old FDD's without issue, and with proper cable management skills a A FDD ribbon cable can be made almost invisible. As for removing it, why bother if you're not going to remove the drive cage. Most FDD's are the same length as the cage so it doesn't interfere with airflow anyway.

I agree 100%
When I built my first PC way back in the day (1997) I went shopping for some hardware locally (well, a two hour plus drive from my house locally) with a friend. He needed a floppy drive and picked one up for 19.99 (today, I think they are 9.99)
He gave me one as well, saying i'd need one anyway but, I returned it to the shelf and said I already ordered one, he laughed saying Ordered, how much did you pay? I replied not to much.
Months went by after I put this old school pc together (Nexgen 5x86 P80 pentium wannabe) without issues and my friend had to purchase several of those cheapy FDD's.
He finally asked me one day (a year or so later) how many fdd' have I bought since building this rig, I said none why? He replied no way he'd gone through many since then and asked what brand I bought. I said a Teac
While I was researching the hardware for this build back then I went to my local community college to ask their computer lab tech about hardware.
He suggested investing in better quality hardware as it paid off in longevity.
Today, I still have that original $70.00 Teac fdd in this rig i'm on now.
I still feel the old fdd still has a purpose, not so much these days with all these new fangled jump drives but, when all else fails there' still the fdd.

Where cabler management is concerned i've never had an issue using the floppy cable as far as bending them, as a matter a fact I used the old IDE ribbon cable folded in a way that it hides the other wires in my wire management project with this and my 939 build.

don

Last edited by Camper; 11-22-2008 at 11:07 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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