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Old 06-08-2009, 05:11 PM   #21
xoggyux
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guys I might be mistaken, but I believe using WAX is a total waste of time, AFAIK wax will only make it LOOK shiny and smooth as long as the wax is ON the chip, once it goes away (you'd need to clean it off before installing it) the chip will be exacly as it was before the application of the wax (AFAIK there is no corrosive WAX or anything.)
If on the other hand you use POLISHER (or some kind of car scratch fix, if you want to use car products ) (which usually come with abrasive chemicals (don't know if would be recommended or of it would work with copper anyway) maybe it would help a bit.

Quote:
Push the processor across the sandpaper, pick it up and return it to start, push across again. Do this 11 times exactly. Then rotate the processor 90* and do another 11 passes. Rotate, again and 11 passes. Then a final rotation and 11 passes. Then check it.
What do you mean with 11 times exactly? o.O
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Old 06-08-2009, 06:34 PM   #22
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turtle wax is a brand, the one pictured in this thread is a polish not a wax.
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Old 06-08-2009, 07:03 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Drozdov View Post
turtle wax is a brand, the one pictured in this thread is a polish not a wax.
my bad, I actually just checked the thumb images and did not get to see "polish" lol, otherwise I would not have mentioned wax as I know the difference also I got confused with
Quote:
Clean the turtle wax off (is not easy to do) and I'd actually recommend not using wax at all. Use something called "Mothers Aluminium and Mag Polish". Also, I use a piece of printer paper taped to glass.
In anyway polish is usually OK for paint, but I dont know if its OK for copper (also copper oxidizes readily, I really would not want extranoeus chemicals touching it) my point is, if it help in the process then use it, but if it does not help then.... lets better avoid including another variable

OK that being said I might be lapping my PII 955BE next week, I already bought a set of sand paper (all the way to 3000 grit so if I am patient enough I might be getting a pretty nice finish)
One question though, Have anyone tried this with Heat-pipe direct touch coolers? Is it better than non-lapped? I got a Sunbeam Core contact and I am getting a thermalright ultra (is being shipped as of now), I already know the thermalright have a nice improvement after lapped, but what about Heat-pipe direct touch coolers? is it better/worse/same? (any info would be appreciated)
Anyway if I do lap mine, I will get pics to help this guide which is looking good.
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Old 06-09-2009, 12:18 AM   #24
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I lapped and polished with Mother's Alum. and Mag polish. It's been working great without any corrosion on a water cooled rig... for about 1_1/2 years. Every time I've removed the water block for an upgrade, it's been flawless.

Just make sure you clean it well with alcohol after polishing. This should be done anytime it's removed and lapped anyway.
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:11 AM   #25
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uhm. what about jewelry cleaner/polisher? its designed to work with precious metals gold/silver/platinum I am pretty sure copper as well. Also once I heard a "trick" of cleaning precious metals with toothpaste? (got no idea if it works or not) but if it works, it would be EXTREMELY easy to use it due to its consistency.
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:06 AM   #26
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polishing with any product leaves a residue and therefore is not recommended practice
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:42 AM   #27
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IMO Polsishing is just another thing that can f***k it all up. I say keep it simple and traditional, take your time, take care and you cant go wrong
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Old 06-09-2009, 12:34 PM   #28
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I think the alcohol and sanding paper is just fine, and you can still use finer grades without useing polish
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Old 06-09-2009, 01:10 PM   #29
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Agreed, just go on higher grits and it will get shinier and shinier.
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Old 06-09-2009, 01:21 PM   #30
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Toothpaste contains aluminium oxide, which happens to be a polish. I'd recommend against using it tho.

Polishing isn't necessary. Lapping with high grits is just fine. However, if you want to polish it, don't use wax or toothpaste. Some jewellery polishes might work. Mothers (automotive) polish is the best.
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Old 06-09-2009, 02:24 PM   #31
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I actually agree, the sandpaper is the way to go, but since I already saw people talking about polishers (maybe they will help a bit on getting the work done faster, but I dont think the quality can improve on any way or form using polishers) and I thought I could contribute with some ideas.
I am anxious waiting for my TRUE to arrive . I made a question I believe it never got answered so let me repeat it... Have someone tried lapped CPUs + Heat Pipe Direct Touch Heatsinks?
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Old 06-09-2009, 09:39 PM   #32
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btw you can use polish as a lapping lubricant... forgot to mention that. Instead of water or alcohol, you can lap with the sandpaper and polish.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:15 PM   #33
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I have few questions:
@Rauchster did you use some kind of methodic method (e.g. applying TIM in the exact same way, all fans speed @ same speed in all test, same room temp, several test + average, etc etc etc?) because for once those temperature drops look too good to be true, also if true then that would put top end heatsinks @ same level as water cooling o.o? and in the other hand, I have not come up with a METHODIC review of a lapped heatsink just yet (frostytech was going to do it to the TRUE but they claim the heatsink fall to the floor and got damaged [LOL, what a fall] and the temperature difference was only 0.8C [below before lapping]) other reviews (of users) say lapping is GREAT, other say is SOSO, other says its actually worse, so now I am confused
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:53 AM   #34
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If lapping is only soso or is worse, obviously they didn't lap correctly. If a HSF or processor is lapped incorrectly, it can make the heat transfer worse.

Follow the rules of lapping and everything comes out right. You can see 5-10*C differences, on air or water.
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Old 06-10-2009, 01:41 PM   #35
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If your going to go through all that effort why not remove the IHS since your still voiding your warranty? I behead my 4400 x2 and 4800 x2 for that reason.

I am just curious. I will admit your guide is very useful for Heat sinks as well (soemthing i agree should be lapped)
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:06 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Zer010 View Post
If your going to go through all that effort why not remove the IHS since your still voiding your warranty? I behead my 4400 x2 and 4800 x2 for that reason.

I am just curious. I will admit your guide is very useful for Heat sinks as well (soemthing i agree should be lapped)
Nothing wrong with this method if done right. Unless the copper plate is soldered on, there may be some curse words lol. Most processors are not solder, I think.

If you remove the IHS, you have to worry more about applying thermal paste and mostly making sure the HSF or block sits flush. Spacers come to mind.
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:36 AM   #37
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Yes you can lap direct heatpipe heatsinks, just remember to put paste between the gaps between the aluminuim heatsink and the heatpipes afterwards.

As for why lap, less gaps between the two surfaces mean more contact to contact with hsk and cpu so of course its a good idear.

The addition of tim makes sure there is virtually no gaps between contact surfaces, but only a spareing amount should be used.
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Old 06-11-2009, 09:29 AM   #38
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my concern about heat pipe direct contact heatsinks is that the pipes got liquid inside (they are hollow) then if they are not very think (very probable) it follows that "too much" lapping will ruin them?
I am not going to try it anyway, if I lap a HS it will be a thermalright
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Old 06-11-2009, 01:38 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xoggyux View Post
my concern about heat pipe direct contact heatsinks is that the pipes got liquid inside (they are hollow) then if they are not very think (very probable) it follows that "too much" lapping will ruin them?
I am not going to try it anyway, if I lap a HS it will be a thermalright
Most cheapo heat pipes are filled with a liquid that turns to a gas when hot. It's the cheapest way for China to get rid of toxic chemicals.
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Old 06-11-2009, 01:55 PM   #40
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Quote:
Most cheapo heat pipes are filled with a liquid that turns to a gas when hot.
I was aware of that... In fact AFAIK ALL are filled with liquid.
Quote:
It's the cheapest way for China to get rid of toxic chemicals.
highly doubt thats the reason though :P
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