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Old 02-15-2010, 10:32 PM   #61
k |{z
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I use the cyberpower 1300 for my lamp server. my server pulls 60 watts idling and at that wattage it says on the lcd it has an hour of time on battery, which is pretty cool. they have the pwrstat drivers on their website. they installed easily on ubuntu and i wrote a php script to scrape data from the "pwrstat -status" output. can do some pretty cool things with that

I'm wishing I would've gone with apc since it seems everyone uses them but this one was on sale and I bought it.
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Old 02-16-2010, 06:41 PM   #62
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Very good guide. You were correct by the examples given to why you need a ups. Thanks dave. Another guide i'll come too for anything power related.
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Old 02-18-2010, 08:41 AM   #63
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Well I ended picking up the BX1300LCD. What a cool little unit. I paid $120 new in the box (never opened). Here they are about $200 + tax so I feel I did alright!

My main rig is pulling 390 watts or so when it's all loaded up. (the unit has an LCD with various power/load displays) I want to put my other computer on it too so when I rearrange some stuff in the room, I'll have the headroom.

With Win7 I didn't have to install any software, you control the runtime and shutdown in the power options menu. Sweet.

I only wish I would have had it a month or so ago when the transformer outside my house started jumping between 80 and 135 volts. Would have saved my mobo. (Thanks ASUS and their 6 hour turnaround time on my RMA!!!)


@ davidhammock200, thanks for the guide, it really helped me make a decision!

Last edited by Bazman; 02-18-2010 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:27 PM   #64
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Hey, I got a question...

Do you know of any managed power strips? I just need power cycle functionality.
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Old 05-10-2010, 04:13 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazman View Post
Well I ended picking up the BX1300LCD. What a cool little unit. I paid $120 new in the box (never opened). Here they are about $200 + tax so I feel I did alright!

My main rig is pulling 390 watts or so when it's all loaded up. (the unit has an LCD with various power/load displays) I want to put my other computer on it too so when I rearrange some stuff in the room, I'll have the headroom.

With Win7 I didn't have to install any software, you control the runtime and shutdown in the power options menu. Sweet.

I only wish I would have had it a month or so ago when the transformer outside my house started jumping between 80 and 135 volts. Would have saved my mobo. (Thanks ASUS and their 6 hour turnaround time on my RMA!!!)


@ davidhammock200, thanks for the guide, it really helped me make a decision!
You are most welcome. All I need to do is to update it and expand it.

Best Wishes,
Dave
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Old 05-14-2010, 12:45 PM   #66
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I'm looking at UPS's right now, and I have just one problem with it, I want an APC Smart-UPS for a true sine wave, because you said simulated sine waves can shorten a PSU's life, but they are too expensive for me... so why would I buy a UPS at all to protect my computer if a simulated sine wave one will hurt it?

I don't need my comp to run for prolonged periods of time, as soon as the power goes out I want it to auto-shutdown, but I take issue with the simulated sine wave.

Problem is, I can get a simulated sine wave APC backup UPS at a local store for $170 (http://megacomputer.ca/index.php/main/Product/BBAP0009), a true sine wave UPS from APC is like $440, minimum.

So yeah, will a simulated wave hurt my computer?? If the answer is even possibly yes, wtf do I do, 'cause I dont' want to spend $450 on a UPS >.<, I just want one that will protect my computer and give it just enough power to shut it down properly in case of an emergency. And when you say if you are running it for less than 3 minutes, a simulated sine wave is fine, but is it? Even for a couple of minutes? The small short term damage can add up I'm sure, unless it is purely a problem of overheating, in which case I guess the simulated wave would be okay.

And another question I don't get, will a simulated sine wave UPS like the one I linked protect my computer from "dirty" power during normal operation, or do you need a true sine wave UPS to protect from that?? Or does it run a simulated sine wave all the time? Or does it just provide power straight from the wall regulated by the AVR and only provide the simulated wave when the power goes out?

Any clarification for me would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:22 PM   #67
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you can probably find a good deal on a true sine UPS on ebay. i got two APC SmartUPS 1500VA's for $240 shipped on ebay last year. both have been running great so far.
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:40 PM   #68
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If you must run "regardless", and might need to be on battery power for hours then "True Sine Wave" is required, as are multiple hot-swappable battery packs.

However if you only need enough battery time to do a controlled shutdown say 15-minutes our less, then a "Simulated Sine Wave" is fine.

The "damage" that would come from running "Simulated Sine Wave" for hours is that it will overheat your PFC forcing the PSU to run less efficiently.
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Old 05-14-2010, 02:12 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by RealityRush View Post
And another question I don't get, will a simulated sine wave UPS like the one I linked protect my computer from "dirty" power during normal operation, or do you need a true sine wave UPS to protect from that?.
The UPS does clean up dirty power coming into it. The only time the simulated sine wave kicks in is when there is no power (or very low power) going into it.

The one you linked to is the same one I got and it's been running beautifully for the last 3 months or so. Even has a light on the back that tells you if your house wiring is OK. Turns out mine wasn't and I had to repair a few outlets.

It sure is nice to not worry when the lights dim or spike!
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:03 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidhammock200 View Post
If you must run "regardless", and might need to be on battery power for hours then "True Sine Wave" is required, as are multiple hot-swappable battery packs.

However if you only need enough battery time to do a controlled shutdown say 15-minutes our less, then a "Simulated Sine Wave" is fine.

The "damage" that would come from running "Simulated Sine Wave" for hours is that it will overheat your PFC forcing the PSU to run less efficiently.
Hmm, okay, thanks for clarifying.

Oh, one last thing, can I get away with a 780W model for my computer?? Because my computer during heavy loads can easily go over 780W. If that 780W is just the battery rating and it means the battery will provide power for 30 seconds vs. a minute during load, I'm fine with that. But if the 780W is the limit that the UPS can supply before blowing a fuse, I'll be annoyed. Or would my 1050WPSU be fine with a 1300VA UPS?? I know the Revolution85+ has PFC like most good supplies these days, which would mean the power factor is like.... 0.99 or close to 1 isn't it? So would a 1300VA UPS = 1300 usable Watts for my power supply???

Additional Comment:

http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/S...NQYF_R0_EN.pdf

Reading that article, it would seem like a 1300VA/780W power supply wouldn't be enough for my computer..... or am I incorrect.... again, my PSU is 1050W and I'd say during load I can probably get up to 850W or so, which would easily break the 780W limit of the UPS.

The whole PFC thing in that article confuses me, if the UPS supplies 1300VA's, and my PSU has power factor correction, it should be supplied 1300W, but apparently it only supplies 780W (60%) realistically.... which would be too little... wtf is going on here.

I realize the difference between apparent power and real power from school depending on if it is a purely resistive load vs. an inductive or capacitive load, but then why the hell would 1300VA's only magically supply 60% of that for some reason on a PSU with Active PFC.... agh!!?!?

Last edited by RealityRush; 05-14-2010 at 04:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:14 PM   #71
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Forget V/A, it is relatively meaningless, wattage (true power) is what we need and if your sysyem actually pulls more than even an APC is rated for, you are going to have problems. If your computer, after calculating PSU efficiency can really pull 800W, then a 1000W UPS is the minimum choice and 1200W would be better. Please remember that there are always transient peak load demands that will occur with heavy gaming that will far exceed the measured/calculated max RMS load.

These things last forever, you just replace the batteries every 2 to 3 years, so it is a long term investment.
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:26 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidhammock200 View Post
Forget V/A, it is relatively meaningless, wattage (true power) is what we need and if your sysyem actually pulls more than even an APC is rated for, you are going to have problems. If your computer, after calculating PSU efficiency can really pull 800W, then a 1000W UPS is the minimum choice and 1200W would be better. Please remember that there are always transient peak load demands that will occur with heavy gaming that will far exceed the measured/calculated max RMS load.

These things last forever, you just replace the batteries every 2 to 3 years, so it is a long term investment.
>.< A 1000W UPS is going to be impossible to get for a reasonable price here..... bah. That's assuming I can even find one locally, shight.

And if you factor efficiency in, if my computer is using 800W or so during load.. and my PSU is 90% efficient, then that would mean my PSU is actually pulling 888.8888888888888888888888888888888888888888888888 W :P

Ugh, I want to protect my computer which costed an arm and a leg, but now the UPS is costing an equal arm and leg >.<

APC sells 1500VA UPS's for like $550... holy #$!#@$...... and refurbups.com doesn't sell any.... wow, basically I can't afford a UPS, awesome...

I've gotta be missing something, no one seems to buy those.... am I assuming my computer can pull more power than it can, 'cause I'm just going off ratings on parts....

Two 480s is a 500W peak alone, my Phenom II x4 is like 140W, my monitor uses 55W, then there's the pump/11 fans in my comp which is prob another 100W, the RAM and my fan controller uses a good 50-75W prob, subwoofer/speakers is like 500W and can peak at 1010W.... so I'd need a whole separate UPS just for the speakers O.o

Agh! lol

Shipping from B&H for a 1500VA Smart-UPS is $400 with FedEx priority.. holy crap.

Last edited by RealityRush; 05-14-2010 at 04:50 PM.
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:28 PM   #73
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With my rig in sig (including monitor) I pull 390 watts (by the meter on the UPS) completely maxed out.
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:47 PM   #74
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With my rig in sig (including monitor) I pull 390 watts (by the meter on the UPS) completely maxed out.
True, but I think my two 480s (which I have OC'd :P) can pull more than your whole system, almost double...

Yeah, not including the speakers, mine can peak at 890Wish... I'ma need a big UPS if I can even figure out where to get one.....

Last edited by RealityRush; 05-14-2010 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:47 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by RealityRush View Post
True, but I think my two 480s (which I have OC'd :P) can pull more than your whole system, almost double...

Yeah, not including the speakers, mine can peak at 890Wish... I'ma need a big UPS if I can even figure out where to get one.....
I think you are grossly over-estimating the actual RMS (normal/average) amount of power your computer is using even while gaming.

I have speakers and audio amps rated to 480W, but they NEVER draw that much power on an RMS (normal) basis, more like 80W to 120W which is LOUD!

Invest $20 in an AC clamp-on amp-meter and multiply the results by 120Volts to get your RMS wattage.
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Old 05-14-2010, 06:14 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by davidhammock200 View Post
I think you are grossly over-estimating the actual RMS (normal/average) amount of power your computer is using even while gaming.

I have speakers and audio amps rated to 480W, but they NEVER draw that much power on an RMS (normal) basis, more like 80W to 120W which is LOUD!

Invest $20 in an AC clamp-on amp-meter and multiply the results by 120Volts to get your RMS wattage.
I realize my normal use RMS wattage is probably not 890W, it is probably more like 650W max when all is said and done, but than again, I overclock stuff in my comp as high as I can usually and leave it OC'd for normal use, so the peak RMS wattages I can get during something like Furmark or a game of Crysis can probably push pretty close to 890 if I'm really pushing my machine. And I'm talking a partially sustained peak here, not a millisecond errant spike. I mean running extreme burn-in furmark with all my parts OC'd.

I want to be able to push my rig to its limits, while still maintaining UPS integrity. I doubt I need 1000W UPS, but 780W just doesn't seem like it would be near enough.

There's a place that sells the 865W one here for $250, which I would purchase, but they are out of stock, I might call and ask if they can order more though.

865W I figure should be enough to power my comp. I realize it's only an extra 85W we're talking about here, but I would feel much safer.

BTW, I think you are confusing what RMS means. If you have an AC full-cycle sine wave that goes from +5V to -5V around the 0 point, your RMS is .707 x the peak, or 3.535V.

RMS doesn't mean your "normal" power use. Just wanted to clear that up so people didn't get confused heh, and sorry if I misunderstood you
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Old 05-14-2010, 06:49 PM   #77
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980W $260: http://www.refurbups.com/APC-SUA1500...-Rack-Mount-2U

Look around, refurbs with warranty & new batteries are as good as new.
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Old 05-14-2010, 06:52 PM   #78
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Ahhhh, look who's back! Finally we can all get our Ohms Law/Power Supply/Voltage Drop/Heat Dissipation/Current Rating/DC Filtering and UPS questions answered again....welcome back David
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Old 05-14-2010, 07:02 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by RealityRush View Post
I realize my normal use RMS wattage is probably not 890W, it is probably more like 650W max when all is said and done, but than again, I overclock stuff in my comp as high as I can usually and leave it OC'd for normal use, so the peak RMS wattages I can get during something like Furmark or a game of Crysis can probably push pretty close to 890 if I'm really pushing my machine. And I'm talking a partially sustained peak here, not a millisecond errant spike. I mean running extreme burn-in furmark with all my parts OC'd.

I want to be able to push my rig to its limits, while still maintaining UPS integrity. I doubt I need 1000W UPS, but 780W just doesn't seem like it would be near enough.

There's a place that sells the 865W one here for $250, which I would purchase, but they are out of stock, I might call and ask if they can order more though.

865W I figure should be enough to power my comp. I realize it's only an extra 85W we're talking about here, but I would feel much safer.

BTW, I think you are confusing what RMS means. If you have an AC full-cycle sine wave that goes from +5V to -5V around the 0 point, your RMS is .707 x the peak, or 3.535V.

RMS doesn't mean your "normal" power use. Just wanted to clear that up so people didn't get confused heh, and sorry if I misunderstood you
i have a cp1285 and it shows current draw and with a tube amp (super unefficient considering it uses vacuum tubes lolz), 23" led monitor (sips power), 1 optical, 1 hdd, 5850, single water loop, 6 120mm fans, c2d @ 4.5 ghz oc, 5 port gigabit switch, 4 port n router, AND my linux server, while doing crazy max settings gaming (metro2033), i barely even touch 300w.

granted i got more overhead anyways, because i got it to A. deliver clean power B. keep server up since i host stuff on it. with only my server on, which is usually the case lately since i now have a media center i use from my bed, the server itself only draws 60w and my ups can run it for about an hour should the power go out. sadly my modem is in another room so i bought it its own ups too. pointless for the server to stay up if the connectivity dies. microcenter had a cheapo 450va for $45, apc brand. steal of a deal for a dinky one to run my modem haha.

but yea, way off topic but point of this being, your system won't draw as much power as you're probably thinking. even with my gtx295 and my old non led 24" lcd, it still barely topped 300w during gaming.

sucks about the pricing in CA though =*(

Additional Comment:

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidhammock200 View Post
980W $260: http://www.refurbups.com/APC-SUA1500...-Rack-Mount-2U

Look around, refurbs with warranty & new batteries are as good as new.
that's a great price, bookmarked!

Last edited by k |{z; 05-14-2010 at 07:02 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 05-14-2010, 07:10 PM   #80
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@ RealityRush. This PSU calculator was accurate to within 20 watts. http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

You can enter your overclock, fans, HD's etc. It overestimated a bit but I think that was to give headroom.

As David said, you aren't pulling anywhere near the watts you think you are. I was surprised by my actual draw. I thought it would be a lot higher but I trust the meter on my UPS.
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