Water Cooling Parts Guide 2008 V1.2

[ricecrispi]

:: Water Cooling Buyers Parts Guide 2009 v1.5 ::

This is a guide for water cooling parts that will help EOCF members choose water cooling parts for their custom water cooling builds. FYI, this is not a water cooling FAQs or HOW-TO guide, but has some relevant information that might help. CPU recommendations has changed with new reviews and waterblocks out. Will be changing radiator ratings soon.


Topics Titles are now linked to threads with info for each topic. Click on Topic and Subtopic Titles or click the Spoiler button to access this info. Certain sections are now linked and broken down to subsection links.


Check at the end of the guide for goodies like.
:: Complete builds with links
:: Online Stores
:: Index of Sections
:: Attachment of older version

Please post personal questions or issues in forums, I will only answer questions with a thread in the forums. Post any question to clear anything not explained in the Guide or send a PM. PM me or post advice on editing, writing, or structure of review.

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:: Guide Introduction ::

:: Things to Consider Before Buying Water Cooling Parts
:: Beware of Water Cooling Kits is Still a General Rule
:: Kits To Never Consider & Don’t Require an Explanation
:: Decent kit with Good performance but Overpriced or Difficult to Upgrade
:: Good Kits to Buy and Consider
:: Guide Versions & Changes

Click the Link >> Guide Intro and WCing Kits Guide Section v1.4 link <<

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:: CPU Waterblocks V2.0 ::

::Top CPU Waterblocks ::

i7 Waterblock Review Links Updated 06/13/09

Sorry for the delay. Was waiting for months for i7 reviews and new waterblocks to come out and it seems the last few months things have changed.

* Mad Shrimp Round up with EK Supreme, Koolance 350, Swiftech GTZ, Enzotech Luna, XSPC Delta and more.
* Overclocking.net I7 waterblock performance comparison.

1) HeatKiller Rev 3.0:: USD $ 65-80 ::Top performer and considered one of the best for I7. Been on the heatkiller bandwagon before people heard of Heatkiller. LC version has higher flow but slight lower performance.
2) EK-Supreme LT :: USD $ 50 :: New revision of Supreme with better cooling performance, within 1C of of the top blocks and better flow rates. Great quality but square design lacks flair.
3) Swiftech GTZ :: $70 :: This is the best performing waterblock by a small margin of .5C-1C. Block is more restrictive than GTX and has med/high restriction. What makes this a winneris the great mounting gear, improved backplate design, the ease of installation and beautiful aesthetics with great black and chrome look.
4) XSPC Edge Acrylic CPU Waterblocks :: USD $40-50 :: Has top cooling performance and design is simple and offers a good balance of performance, flow rates, and value. and restriction is just as low as Fuzion V1. Has acrylic top and can had LED lighting. Availability is immediate issue as I seen it for sale only in UK. Would’ve made top 3 if it was available to buy in US.
5) Koolance CPU-350 Waterblock: - USD $80 – Cooling performance is at the very top. Restriction is so high it is designed for CPU only system and performance does get hurt in low flow rates scenarios.


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:: Honorable Mention CPU Water Blocks ::


A) D-TEK FuZion V2 with D-Tek FuZion Accelerator Nozzle Kit :: USD $69 :: New and improved version of Fuzion. While revision is a bit more restrictive than original Fuzion but cooling performance has improved by 2-3C. Fuzion has a convex bowed base that helps contact in the center of IHS to improve cooling with concave Intel IHS.
B) EK-Supreme:: USD $ 70 :: Has decent cooling performance, but has extremely high restriction.
C) Enzotech Sapphire:: USD $43-55 :: Design is based on Fuzion V1 and has similar cooling performance but a flat base. It does not use Dtek Fuzion nozzles. I wouldn’t consider this block unless for looks with newer Fuzion V2 out but it is a decent deal including AM2 and LGA 775 back plates, mounting gear, and ceramique thermal grease with one of the best looking blocks.
D) Aqua Computer Cuplex Double Impact :: USD $120 :: Beautiful block that is still hard to find and expensive. Martin finally released some performance data and it performs close to Fuzion V1 in cooling performance but as restrictive as EK Supreme. Buy it only for the bling and to be different. Due to restriction use this block for builds with CPU or CPU+GPU only loops. Available at sharkacomputers.com.
D) Alphacool NexXxoS XP Bold : -USD $25-60 - Has about same performance as Storm or MP-05 but more restrictive than Storm. Several versions exist with different top and mid plates with some as cheap as $25 brand new. Some versions have whacky or weird looking mounting gear.

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:: Legacy CPU Water Blocks ::

These guys are old legends. I wouldn’t use them for newer parts unless on budget. They get reduced font to save space
*) AquaXtreme MP-05 PRO Limited Edition: - USD $65-75 - A great choice single cores and non IHS AMDs, decent cooling performance on dual cores, but bad on quad cores. Has several revisions and models based on mid plate accelerator and number of pins. The #3 version has a jet midplate and very restrictive. The #2 version has a X shaped midplate with better flow rates than #3 version but lower performance. Cooling performance is not as good as the top 5 waterblocks.
*) Alphacool NexXxoS XP Bold: - USD $25-60 - Has about same performance as Storm or MP-05 but more restrictive than Storm. Several versions exist with different top and mid plates with some as cheap as $25 brand new. Some versions have whacky or weird looking mounting gear.
*) Swiftech Storm Rev. 2: - USD $50 - King of the Hill 3-4 years ago. Great for non IHS and single core AMD, has average cooling on dual cores, but horrible for quad cores. Was one of the most restrictive blocks back in the heydays but now considered mid-high restriction block. Comes with acetal top, copper base, and a midplate. Three version exist, one from Little River by cathar, Swiftech G4, and Swiftech Rev 2. Can be bought for $50 new and half that used.
*) Little River G5 / G7: - USD $200-300 – G5 is probably best cooling performance block if you can find it and fork out $200. G7 is here for just being mythical. Both have silver bases, acetal tops and midplate, and require meticulous maintenance. If you are thinking about these you shouldn’t be reading this.
*) Swiftech MCW6002: - Decent enough performer but mounting plates will be hard to find since it is discontinued. It is liquid chillers pot of gold or modified for TEC setups. Block is a tank and should last forever.
*) Danger Den TDX / RBX / MAZE5CPU w/ Brass Top: - Behind all the above blocks in cooling performance and showing its age. Still decent blocks to buy but this is bottom of the bar. Maze 5 has same design as maze 5 gpu block and nothing special.

*) Thermalright XWB-1 CPU Water Block[/URL]: - USD $42-55 – Cooling performance is on par with above water blocks but with high restriction same as EK supreme. XWB-1 comes with nickel plated copper top and copper base with extremely fine pin matrix. The block supports Intel LGA 775 with backplate, AMD AM2+ and socket 939 without backplates. Due to restriction use this block for builds with CPU or CPU+GPU only loops.
*) Swiftech Apogee GT: - USD $39-50 - Generic version of GTX by Swiftech with medium restriction, tad less restriction than GTX. Would but anything that would perform worse than this block.
*) Swiftech Apogee GTX: - USD $60-75 - Cooling performance is 1C better than Apogee GT and small increase in restriction. GTX comes with beautiful black dye and nickel plated Aluminium top with a warranty against corrosion and Swiftech offers a copper top for price of USD $38.
*) Danger Den MC-TDX : - USD $60 - The new pin revision of TDX that resembles the internal layout of D-Tek Fuzion with classic TDX shape and plexiglass top. Has low restriction of D-Tek Fuzion and cooling performance seems to be a little behind the Stock Fuzion. The difference in performance seems to be due to lack of bowed base that is in the Fuzion and inlet not being centered above cores.
*) Koolance CPU-330 Waterblock[/URL]: - USD $45-50 – Cooling performance is just a little behind Apogee GT with unknown restriction. Block has anodized aluminium top and gold plated base. Nozzles aka “Barbs” must be purchased separately making the price for this average block too high to be considered in top group. Supports nearly all CPU sockets which is good for some legacy users.

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Click the Link >> Old CPU Waterblocks Guide Section v1.4 link <<



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:: GPU Waterblocks ::

:: Full Coverage GPU Waterblocks
:: North American Full Coverage Blocks Choices
:: European Full Coverage Blocks Choices
:: GPU Core Blocks
:: Ramsinks
:: Ramsinks Installation Tips

Click the Link >> GPU Waterblock Guide v1.4 <<

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:: Watercooling Pumps ::

:: Top Water Cooling Pumps
:: Honorable Mention Pumps
:: Budget Pumps
:: Laing DDC Aftermarket Tops
:: AC pumps
:: Dishonorable Mention Pump List
:: Water Cooling Pump & Review Links


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:: Radiators::

:: Watercooling Radiators
:: Understanding Basics of Radiator Performance
:: Radiator Performance Based on Frontal Size & Overall Dimensions
:: Air CFM roughly determines Radiator Performance
:: FPI, Fan Specs and Radiator Performance
:: Radiator Fans
:: Other Radiator Info
:: Radiator Fans Screws
:: Radiator Fan Grills
:: NOTE: Heatercores and Shrouds not required are not recommended

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::Tubing ::

:: Basic Tubing FAQs
:: Popular Tubing Brands
:: Tubing Size and Performance
:: Impact of Tubing Size on Temps
:: Why 7/16” and 3/8" ID Tubing are The Best Choices
:: The advantages of using 7/16” ID tubing instead 1/2" tubing
:: Drawbacks of using 7/16” tubing
:: Why and when to use 3/8" ID tubing
:: Tubing Kinking Info
:: Resolving tubing kink problems due to sharp turns or bends
:: Water Cooling Tubing Review Links

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Coolants

Purpose of Coolant

Coolants purpose is A) Help cool the system B) Protect against galvanic corrosion C) Kill microbes or living organisms D) Lubricate the pump.

-While water alone is pretty much the best performing coolant it doesn’t fulfill B and C.
-Anti-algae or anti microbe additives (PT NUKE, Iodine, anti-algae) does part C but not B.
-Antifreeze (AF) is often added to distilled water in 10-20% concentrations because it fulfills all A-D but use 20-25% higher concentration of AF to prevent corrosion when having aluminum in loops but only slightly reduces performance.

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Don’t have to buy Pre- Made Coolant

Don’t buy coolants like Fluid XP, Primochill, MCT, Koolance, Feser, Zalman, Thermaltake, Gigbyte, or MISC brands; You can make you own. Most pre- made coolantsare made of antifreeze, distilled water, packaging, and extra $10-15 tacked on.
DO NOT get FLUID XP, it’s a marketing angle, and it won’t stay conductive forever and can still damage you computer if the setup leaks.

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Making Own Coolant

1) Buy 1 gallon Distilled Water ($1-2).
2) Buy 50/50% AF($8) or Additive (high concentration AF) ($3-$5). Buy 2-3 additive bottles for the future so you don’t have to buy it again.
3) Use 1 liter bottle to mix distilled water with additive per instruction to make coolant. Use 1 gallon bottle to mix water with 50:50AF using 25 oz., 38 oz., 50 oz., and 64 oz. or half AF and half water for 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% concentrations. Mark the bottles as coolant so no one confuses it with juice or Gatorade. Little more than ½ liter or 16 ounces on average are used to fill setups.
4) DON’T USE DRINKING WATER or TAP water , it contains minerals that will speed up corrosion.

Additives To Look At
Pentosin <> Zerex <> HydraX <> Feser <> PetraTech Long Life Red Additive

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Galvanic corrosion

Galvanic corrosion can completely kill performance of water cooling loop and ruin all the parts. So take the proper precautions against it. In water cooling you different metals in contact with each by a liquid medium. Different metals have different galvanic potentials. The most negative potentials are very reactive (Zinc, Magnesium, Aluminum) and the most positive are very inactive and resistant to corrosion (gold, platinum, silver, carbon). WCing parts that contain aluminum, an active metal with negative potential, can corrode. Aluminum is often anodized or plated to help prevent corrosion but if you do use aluminum parts try to use higher concentration of AF and more additive, minimal 20%-25%. The extra concentration of AF will protect against corrosion and not reduce performance that much. Also note barbs, radiators, and pumps and other parts contain nickel plated stainless steel or brass. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion http://www.assda.asn.au/asp/index.asp?pgid=18533

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Reservoir and T-Lines

I’m not going to recommend RES or T-line. Each has Pros and Cons which that will match individual preference. I would switch between the two depending on the conditions but I do prefer T-lines over RES in general. My choices would be I like the Swiftech MCRES-Micro or T-Line

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T-Line Info & Requirements

1) T Line Fitting
2) Fill Line. Tubing that fits ontop of T-Line for filling coolant. Longer is better
3) Danger Den Acetal FillPort / DD T-Line Plug / BRASS TEST PLUG 3/4 to close the fill line. Fillport doesn’t require modding and cut hole into case. Zip tie to corner of the case or leave it in a corner or nook.
T-Line Positives
- Small size
- Easy to loop and setup.
- Placed almost anywhere in loop and then bleed (preferable right before the pump and Fill line is highest point of setup. Any other setup can be bleed but might take longer, is harder to bleed, and require more work.
- Versatile. Can be extended by adding another fitting and temporary making T-line longer, great for small cases. Fill line can be used as drain port by rotating Fill line downward.
T-Line Negatives
- Longer to fill and bleed
- More complicated to fill and bleed. Requires monitoring during bleed and some other work, like some shaking of the case or tilting case on side.

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Reservoir Info & Requirements

1)RES requires space 2) Little time to install and setup
RES Positives
- Can be much quick and sometimes easier to fill and bleed. Sometimes 5 minutes compared to T-line taking to get 1/2hr of work and sometimes 2-6 hours depending on loop
RES Negatives
- Takes more space. Some take up 3 1/2” bay, single 5 ½” bay, several 5 ½” bays, or elsewhere
- Harder to empty or drain -Some have cracking due to over-tightening the barbs
- Can make running water/bubbling brook noise. IE Primochill typhoon 120mm, DangerDen Bay RES, Alphacool & aquacomputer Aluminum RES -Some are very expensive.

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Chipset Mosfet Ram HDD Waterblocks

-Only certain chipsets might require cooling, an example is 680i, p965, and certain intel chipsets, so verify if the chipset needs to cooled to maintain stability or improve overclocks, usually if temps are above 50-55C. Usually a good aftermarket air solution will do the job.
- Adding Chipset to the loop shouldn’t reduce performance. Chipset adds very little restriction or heat into the loop (10-30 watts depending on voltage and type) so you shouldn’t worry about reducing overall performance or increasing temps.
- Verify the chipset waterblock is compatible with the mobo and it fits properly with everything in place.
- South Bridge Water Coolingis not recommended at the moment as a heatsink and small fan is enough.
- Mosfetcooled by air gets the job done but these things don’t hurt flow rates and should help people pushing high voltages on mobos or have low airflow. IF you are worried about mobo longevity maybe get these but I don’t see the point.
- HDD is highly not suggested because they don’t work, it’s expensive, and I don’t like leaks around HDDs. There are plenty of passive and air cooled solution that will keep hard drive just as cool and do better job of keeping HDD quiet.
- RAM cooling is okay but not required. Cooling RAM by air is easier and only water cooling helps cool RAM better only at high voltages. Ram water coolers are also usually ¼” tubing so you have to use F Fittings from Swiftech or Koolance Hose Splitter.
-Brands to looks at EK, Danger Den, Swiftech MCW30,Enzotech, MIPS, XSPC, or other

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Fittings

Use any and as many fitting you want; elbows, T fittings, Y fittings, shutoff valves etc. They don’t reduce flow rates at noticeable amounts with modern pumps to worry about. Elbow restriction is about 1 foot of tubing or practically nothing.

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Barb Fittings

The most common type of fittings is either plastic or metal barbs. Plastic ones stick to tubing better but are harder to install tubing on and remove tubing from. Black plastic barbs looks stealth but the appearance of clear or white barbs is tacky. Metal barbs makes installing and removing tubing much easier while looking great. Problem is they can strip threads, remove anodizing on waterblocks which can speed up corrosion, easier for tubing to slip off and cause leaks, but these problems are rare and a good set of metal barbs are worth the cost.

- DD Perfect Seal: Perfect for ½” tubing because it seals on ½” without clamps but hard to install and remove on 7/16” tubing. Use with 7/16" tubing can cause flow restriction.
- Single Flare Hi Flow Fittings:Perfect for 7/16” tubing, easier to use with than ½” plastic barbs. A bit loose on ½” tubing.
The common version is Danger Den High-Flow, Swiftech High-Flow Fitting, D-Tek High-Flow Fitting, and unique EK High-Flow Fittingare a personal favorite.
- Multi Flare Automotive Style Fittings : Common on brass barbs of heater cores or hardware stores. Easy to install and remove but easier to leak or require multiple clamps.

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Compression Fittings

These things are great. They make installation and removal of tubing a cinch and look great. The problems are
1) They are expensive at $5+ a piece so meant for large budget builders only but work looking at if you are looking at buying metal barbs.
2) Works with specific tubing sizes only. If tubing doesn’t fit properly or isn't correctly installed it will leak or tubing might pop off
3) 5/8” ID tubing is harder to find and ¾” is impossible to get.
4) Bad quality ones will work for awhile and then pop off or leak over time.

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Quick Disconnect

Swiftech, Asetek, and many old companies used this till people hated them and they aren’t around anymore. They could leak right a way or over time due to proper or improper installation. They were a pain to install and not the quick to remove honestly.
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Links

- Barb Sizes Explained Coolmiester Paul Coolercases.co.uk:Explains in detail the differences in types of threads and related barb naming info with pictures.
- Water blocks Threading and Fittings by Exa xtremesystems.org forums List of threads used on parts and thread information;
CPU: Alphacool, AquaXtreme, Danger Den, EK, Watercool, Swiftech. RAD: Alphacool, Black Ice, Swiftech, and Thermochill. Pumps: Laing DDC tops, Hydor
- Common Watercooling Items Thread Size Faq by Marci of
Thermochill over-clock.co.uk forums: List of threads used on current and older parts on second post. CPU: Alphacool, AquaXtreme, EK, D-tek, Danger Den, Innovetek, Swiftech; PUMP: C-Systems, Ehiem, Hydor, Laing MISC: Aquacomputer, Thermaltake, Primochill.

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Clamps

There are many of clamps but ones common to WCing are Zipties, Worm drive, plastic snap, spring tension, and rare ear clamps.

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Type of Clamps

-Zip Ties (Cable Tie):Highly suggest because when installed correctly they won’t leak, look clean, easy to install or replace, have many colors, and the cheapest method. To install it, loop it around the barb and tighten by hand by pulling the tail till it holds the barb. Then hold the square ratchet and use pliers to pull the tail till it tightens completely and stops clicking. Skipping that step can lead to leaks. Multiple zip ties can be used on a single barb to prevent leaks. Remove zip ties but using large nail clippers, scissors, or razor to cut off the ratchet or tail. If you want to reuse the zip tie take a needle and push it in between the tail and the ratchet and slide the tail back out.
- Worm-Drive Hose Clamp are next on the list since they are cheap, easy to install, and unlikely to leak. Problem is they can scar ends of tubing if tighten too much, looks ugly, are bulky, and slow to install and remove.
- Plastic Snap Clamps: I don’t recommend for permanent installs because they can still leak. Good for temporary setups and cheap enough to buy to keep on the side for emergency.
- Spring clamps are a new thing. They can look nice and very easy to install. Warnings, since some are cheap (thermaltake) and don’t have enough pressure and move around tubing, be pulled off easily and can leak.

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Water Cooling Maintenance Tools

Most of these parts cost $1-2 and will make setup and maintenance much easier. No one will ever have a list of these tools in their guide because they haven’t done this lone enough.

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1)Hoppy spill saver Funnel w/ long neck& splashguard: Help fill loop and empty loop. Can be inserted into tubing on fill line of T- line or angled into RES. Must have this since it makes the fill and drain work 10x easier.
2)Percolator Brush: Helps clean tubing after it gets cloudy. Brush inside of tubing with some warm water and soap, rinse with DI water. Can use gun barrel brush kits or Test Tube cleaners. Rubbermaid tube brush G183-12 is my favourite.
3)One gallon DI water:Always have same DI water around.
4)1 litre juice or liquid container:Use this container create coolant and to pour coolant into loop. Easier than pouring out of 1 gallon jug.

Other things to have but not necessary

5)Plastic container: Container and lid helps catch spills at bottom of case or help empty loop. Any sized container from Rubbermaid food containers to medium storage containers help. Medium container also holds all the water cooling gear in one box
6)Two or Three 1 gallon DI water bottles: Get the ones with screw caps to prevent spills. Helps rinse parts and other things

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Water Cooling Maintenance

- Before installing everything remember to inspect everything and rinsing it before using. I would also suggest opening the blocks, brush it out with a toothbrush and distilled water in the blocks, and then rinse out the block.

- It is required to flush the radiator looped to a pump and using hot water for 1 hour to remove any flux, manufacturing residues, and particles. At least rinse out the radiator by filling it out with warm water to clean out any particles inside the radiators and emptying the radiator. Fill the radiator with hot water, close the barbs with your fingers, shake the radiator around several times to loosen debris, and then empty the radiator of water and rinse again with distilled.

- Always leak test before running everything for at least 6 hours and minimal 12 hours. Make sure to have everything clamped down and nothing kinks.

- IF something does leak, take everything apart, take everything outside the case. Rinse graphics cards and mobo with 90% isopropyl alcohol to help remove any dried or wet coolant and let it dry. A blow dryer on low cool setting can help it dry but is not required. Also check any slots and underneath heatsinks, CPU mounts, PCIEX slots, and ram slots. Never run a computer right after a loop leaks if you didn’t disassemble it. If you didn’t disassemble it let it dry for minimal two days. Water takes along time to evaporate in tight spots.

- Remember to maintain your loop and WCing setup. Check up on water levels and appearance. Every 12 months try to flush it out, tear everything down, and refill the loop. If temps slow crawl up over several months you should inspect the loop.

- If you have problems with temps. Report the Water cooling parts in your loop including fans used. Give info on basic rig info, overclocks with voltage, what parts are being cooled, temps inside the case or room, idle temps of parts cooled and load temps reported by Intel TAT or Coretemp. Most of the time either too much thermal grease is used or the waterblock is improperly installed and has bad contact to IHS.

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Water Cooling Builds List

High End Build
CPU only $375-500 // +Single EK $550-575 // +SLI EK $700
(Phase change in same price range as SLI EK High End Builds)

CPU WB: D-Tek FuZion with Nozzle Kit <> EK-Supreme
GPU WB: EK Full Coverage <> MCW60 with Dtek Uni-Sink or MC8800 Kit
PUMP: Laing DDC 3.1/3.2 with Top or Laing D5/MCP-655
RAD: ThermoChill PA 120.3 <> Black Ice GTX 120.3/120.4
FAN: Scythe SFLEX SFF21 E or recommended fan
RES: Swiftech MCRES-Micro <> T Line w/ FillPort <> any RES
TUBING: 7/16” or 3/8” Tygon R-3603 <> tubing or available tubing
COOLANT: Pentosin <> Zerex Super Coolant<> Swiftech HydrX additive
CLAMP: Zip Ties <> Worm-Drive with Anodized Covers <> Smooth Band Clamps
CHIPSET: MCW30 chipset or any chipset (Optional) /// + $30-45 to minimum $375
MISC BARB: EK Thermochill ½” barbs (Optional) /// + $6-8 to minimum
BARBS: EK Barbs or compression fittings. (Optional) /// + $20-40 to minimum
MISC: Dtek FuZion Intel 775 Pro-Mount set (Optional) /// + $8-12 to minimum
MISC: Swiftech RadBox MCB-120 (Optional) /// + $18-20 to minimum
MISC: Radgrills (Optional) /// + $15-25 to minimum

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Budget Thermochill Build (Thermochill with Midrange)
CPU only $280-350 // +MCW60 $350-400 // +SLI MCW60 $430-475

CPU WB: Swiftech Apogee GT <> Apogee Drive 350 Pump / CPU combo
GPU WB: MCW60 with Dtek Uni-Sink or MC8800 Kit
PUMP: Laing D5/MCP-655 <> MCP655-B <> DDC-3.2 / 18W / MCP355
RAD: 120.2 ThermoChill PA <> 120.3 ThermoChill PA /// + $15-20 to minimum $280
FAN: Yate Loon D12SL-12 <> CM Low Noise Fan
RES:T Line with T-Line Plug or w/ FillPort (Optional) /// + $12-15 to minimum
TUBING: 7/16” or 3/8” Masterkleer <> Masterkleer<> ClearFLEX <> Primochill
COOLANT: Pentosin <> Zerex Super Coolant<> Swiftech HydrX additive
CLAMP: Zip Ties (Cable Tie)
MISC: Dtek FuZion Intel 775 Pro-Mount set Optional) /// + $8-12 to minimum
MISC: Swiftech RadBox MCB-120 (Optional) /// + $18-20 to minimum
MISC: Radgrills (Optional) /// + $15-25 to minimum

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High End // Midrange
CPU only $225-250 <> +EK GPU $315-350 <> +EK SLI $400-475 <> +MCW60 $250-325 <> +SLI MCW60 $300-375

CPU WB: D-Tek FuZion <> EK-Supreme <> Swiftech Apogee GT
GPU WB: EK Full Coverage <> MCW60 with Dtek Uni-Sink or MC8800 Kit
PUMP: Laing DDC 3.1/3.2 with Top<> Laing D5/MCP-655 <> Laing DDC 3.2
RAD: 120.2/120.3 Coolingworks <> Swiftech MCR <> Swiftech MCR/Res <> BI GTS
FAN: Scythe SFLEX SFF21 E
RES: Swiftech MCRES-Micro <> T Line w/ FillPort
TUBING: 7/16” or 3/8” Tygon R-3603 <> Masterkleer<> ClearFLEX <> Primochill
COOLANT: Pentosin <> Zerex Super Coolant<> Swiftech HydrX additive
CLAMP: Zip Ties (Cable Tie)
MISC: Swiftech RadBox MCB-120 (Optional) // + $18-20 to minimumMISC: Radgrills (Optional) /// + $15-25 to minimum
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Budget Build <> Super Budget Build <> Used Parts
CPU only $165-210 <> +MCW60 $225-275 <> + SLI $300-335
With Quality Used parts ~ $115 -150

CPU WB & PUMP: Apogee GT with MCP655-B or Laing DDC 3.2 <> Apogee Drive
GPU WB: MCW60 with other cheaper ramsinks
RAD & RES: Swiftech MCR-QP Res 220 <> Swiftech MCR 220 with T Line and Plug
FAN: Yate Loon D12SL-12 <> CM Low Noise Fan
TUBING: 7/16” or 3/8” Tygon R-3603 <> Masterkleer<> ClearFLEX <> Primochill
COOLANT: Pentosin <> Zerex Super Coolant<> Swiftech HydrX additive
CLAMP: Zip Ties (Cable Tie)
MISC: Swiftech RadBox MCB-120 (Optional) // + $18-20 to minimum

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Water Cooling Stores

Primary US based Online Stores :These stores have a huge selection of parts and known for their great support of water cooling community. I have personally purchased from these places and vouch for them and so would hundreds of other people.

1) jab-tech.com : High end selection of cooling parts, great selection of water cooling parts, lowest prices, and great customer support with water cooling RMA support
2) petrastechshop.com : Water cooling and High end cooling specialty store with Petra being an active member in water cooling community. Good selection of parts and average prices. Ships worldwide and great support.
3) performance-pcs.com : Great online store with large selection of modding supplies, cases, cooling parts, and one of largest water cooling inventories. Also based on Florida so CA buyers can avoid some sales taxes.
4) svc.com : Awesome customer support with decent water cooling inventory but great cooling parts, accessories, and modding inventory

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Other US based Online Stores : I don’t have as much info on these stores and limited or no experience but they are decent online stores.

frozencpu.com : Large selection of water cooling and accessories, cooling parts, cases, and modding gear but very expensive.
sidewindercomputers.com : Probably the best selection of cooling parts and large selection of water cooling parts. Like above but cheaper
dangerden.com : Water cooling specialty store. Stocks major water cooling parts but limited selection.
dtekcustoms.com Water cooling specialty store. Stocks major water cooling parts but limited selection
swiftech.com : There is an online store.
sharkacomputers.com : Reseller to some parts you can’t find anywhere else in the US
directron.com : Reseller to some parts you can’t find anywhere else in the US

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Non US stores: I have no experience or knowledge of these stores so I can’t comment on them other then what I see and I would love input for people.
Canada based Online Stores
NCIX.com
directcanada.com

UK Stores based Online Stores
coolercases.co.uk :
aqua-pcs.co.uk
specialtech.co.uk
candccentral.co.uk
watercoolingshop.com
thecoolingshop.com
over-clock.co.uk
watercoolinguk.co.uk
chilledpc.co.uk
kustompcs.co.uk

Aussie and Kiwi based Online Stores
flabbergast.com.au
cool-z.com.au
chilledpc.com.au
pccasegear.com
overclockers.co.nz

MISC EUROPEAN based Online Stores
EKwaterblocks.com
heatkiller.de
Mips.com
Xspc.com
aquatuning.de
coolerkit.dk
bg-computers.com
vcore.dk

MaxxxRacers Guide to Online Water Cooling Stores http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=67179


:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :::::::::::::::::::::::::

Introduction, Purpose, FYI

Water cooling Kit Warning Rule
- Five reasons not to get Kits
- Kits you should never consider and these don’t require an explanation
- Decent kit with good performance but overpriced and difficult to upgrade
- Good Kits

Things you should always consider before buying water cooling parts

CPU Waterblocks
- Top 5
- Honorable mention

GPU Waterblocks
- Full Coverage Blocks
- Core Blocks
- Ramsinks

Pumps
- Top 4 Pumps
- Honorable Mention
- Budget pumps
- AC pumps- Dishonorable Mention List
- Laing DDC Aftermarket Tops

Radiators
- Radiator Brands- Radiator Size
- Fan CFM roughly determines radiator performance
- Radiator Fans
- Radiator Screws and Rad Grills

Tubing
- Basic Tubing FAQs
- Tubing Size Info
- Tubing Kink Info
- 7/16” Tubing Replacing ½” Tubing
- Impact of Tubing Size on Temps

Coolants
- Purpose of Coolant
- Don’t have to buy Pre
- Made Coolant
- Making Own Coolant and Additives to Look At
- Galvanic corrosion

Reservoir and T-Lines
- T-Line Info
- Reservoir Info

Chipset Mosfet Ram HDD Waterblocks

Chipset Waterblocks Info

Fittings
- Barb Fittings
- Compression fittings
- Quick disconnectsClamps

TYPE OF CLAMPS

Water Cooling Maintenance Tools

Water Cooling Maintenance Page

Water Cooling Builds List
- High End Build
- Budget Thermochill
- High End // Midrange
- Budget Build //Super Budget Build

Water Cooling Stores

Index

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

:: Guide Versions & Changes ::

Version v1.5 : Updated only CPU info 11/09/08. Reverting to posting the info on sticky.

Version v1.4 : Restructure with links to individual sections at beginning of guide and complete links of reviews of parts.
Changes v1.4
======

Guide Introduction
*Shortened Intro
*Moved Guide Version & Changes to current location
*Moved Things to Consider up
*Small Changes to Beware of Kits
CPU Waterblocks
*Changed to Top TWO CPU waterblocks from Top FIVE
*Honorable mention Blocks revised
*Legacy Blocks section added
*added CPU Review links
Pumps
*Added Sanso pump and CPX-PRO
*Edit to DDC 3.2 with top: Moved DDC top information
*Edit DDC top info
*Edit AC pumps
*Expanded pump review links
Radiator
*Added Feser Xchanger
*Demoted Coolingworks
*Expanded Misc Radiator Info
*Expanded Radiator performance
*Expanded on performance and radiator size
*Expanded FPI and performance
*Expanded air CFM and performance

Version v1.3 Proof read to remove gross violation of grammar and general slaughter of English language. Also to remove any link errors.
Version v1.2 Format and layout changed: Draft version.
Version v1.1was strictly text and incomplete. Completely revised with v1.2.

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :::::::::::::::::::::::::

[Darkmind]

I dub thee thine holy grail of water cooling parts for 2008!

[JustinThyme]

Nice guide and obviously a lot of work to prepare.
One tidbit of advice.
personal opinion should never be introduced into a guide. I know its hard to avoid but it turns it from guide to "he said she said"
Should also include links to unbiased test data or its just opinion which still makes it "he said she said".

[meowmix]

WOW, thanks so much for this.
Sample loops and installation tips would be a great addition to this.
Thanks for the links as well, very very very helpful.

[Narissis]

Well, it's just supposed to be a buyers' guide. An installation guide would be a nice supplement, though.

[FrostyOne]

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=54331

This covers the parts, the prep, the installation and leak testing, and is a must read for any water-cooler, especially the beginner.

Additional Comment:

And mods, please give this man a sticky.

[Narissis]

Amusingly, I had seen that guide before and was wondering how I'd find it again when it came time to flush my radiator. Thanks for doing my work for me!

[Mobias]

That guide looks great. Much easier to read than v1. So full of good information. If only we could require all new watercoolers to read this before posting.

[ricecrispi]

Originally Posted by JustinThyme

Nice guide and obviously a lot of work to prepare.
One tidbit of advice.
personal opinion should never be introduced into a guide. I know its hard to avoid but it turns it from guide to "he said she said"
Should also include links to unbiased test data or its just opinion which still makes it "he said she said".

It is just a link of actual reviews, product info, or product releases. This is just to keep things up to date. Generally I don't take forum talk about products seriously unless the person is objectively and thoroughly reviewing the product and then it will take 5-6 of these to consider it valid information.

I get nothing from several crap reviews where person never has reviewed or even used watercooling part in his life. I hardly trust these and can spot them a mile away.

Sometimes it takes several reviews to make a decision on the product or one very good review. The good relevant review usually will influence my decisions more. I know a good VALID unbiased review when I see one and usually go back to those same reviewers because they have good reliable methodology, offer some test data and results, and have reviewer experience. Even good reviewers make mistakes on products.

[Almost Tactf]

I bow to you!!!!!!

[JustinThyme]

Originally Posted by ricecrispi

It is just a link of actual reviews, product info, or product releases. This is just to keep things up to date. Generally I don't take forum talk about products seriously unless the person is objectively and thoroughly reviewing the product and then it will take 5-6 of these to consider it valid information.

I get nothing from several crap reviews where person never has reviewed or even used watercooling part in his life. I hardly trust these and can spot them a mile away.

Sometimes it takes several reviews to make a decision on the product or one very good review. The good relevant review usually will influence my decisions more. I know a good VALID unbiased review when I see one and usually go back to those same reviewers because they have good reliable methodology, offer some test data and results, and have reviewer experience. Even good reviewers make mistakes on products.

I understand your personal objectivity, only because I have read a lot of your posts. Not that I agreed wit all of them but I at least know you are ohjective.

What I was referring to was had I not read your posts and found you at least somewhat trustworthy whats to say you know the difference between a CPU block and a trash compactor?

Not to impune your work becasue obviously you did your homework and spent a lot of time with this. Just pointing out that If I were just a browser stoppping by I would have totally disregarded this in its entirty due to lack of cross reference. While it was a good read the word "I" should never appear. I do a lot of technical writing of training manuals and product guidlines so I have some experience at this.

Just offering a constructive critique to an otherwise flawless piece of work.

[ricecrispi]

Well you have to know what's golden and what's trash. There is whole spectrum of things and things worldwide we don't have or seen. Example heatkiller.de in germany makes the absolute best cooling gpu block by far, no one knows about them here.

I can't cross reference at the time because time constraints and I can't entirely because of length. I'll will include it in the MS DOC version and started CPU waterblocks so it will be finished eventually down the road. I already included a collection of bookmarks but editing from doc to text is tedious, took several hours to edit the text format and not simple paste and cut, so it won't get done right away.

As for the technical part, I look at it and try to limit the usage of the word "I" or "you". I take a look through it again. I try to stay away from my experience working on research papers but people will still ask what I would recommend and that is why I have it in there. It was very deliberate. Sometimes these things like opening waterblocks and inspecting them is not recommended by manufacturers. Very few people suggest using Zip Ties but I do.

Thanks for the input

[bftek]

I also agree that "I" should never be used in writing like this, but since this is not something that will get printed in a publication, I see nothing wrong it's use in this forum.
That nonsense aside.
It's really well written, and this is proven by the fact that I read through all of it.
It provided just enough information.
Congratulations, this needs to be stickied asap!

[JustinThyme]

Originally Posted by ricecrispi

Well you have to know what's golden and what's trash. There is whole spectrum of things and things worldwide we don't have or seen. Example heatkiller.de in germany makes the absolute best cooling gpu block by far, no one knows about them here.

I can't cross reference at the time because time constraints and I can't entirely because of length. I'll will include it in the MS DOC version and started CPU waterblocks so it will be finished eventually down the road. I already included a collection of bookmarks but editing from doc to text is tedious, took several hours to edit the text format and not simple paste and cut, so it won't get done right away.

As for the technical part, I look at it and try to limit the usage of the word "I" or "you". I take a look through it again. I try to stay away from my experience working on research papers but people will still ask what I would recommend and that is why I have it in there. It was very deliberate. Sometimes these things like opening waterblocks and inspecting them is not recommended by manufacturers. Very few people suggest using Zip Ties but I do.

Thanks for the input

I use zip ties too LOL
I use pretty thin ones. just big enough to get around what I am clamping. They are eaiser to put on and trim, floresce like mad when you use the right colors and I think when the smaller ones are used they get a better bight into the tygon. I know I tested the first one I did like that on a CPU block while it was still outside of the case by tugging in it with all I had. The tubing was stretching but it wasnt letting go.

[UrbanSmooth]

Thanks! About time this is updated! Any new wc parts on the horizon?

[stonk]

The only thing i noticed was this "3/8" BSPT/NPT" it is actually 3/8 BSPT not NPT.
There is a difference in threads and if you use NPT as apposed to BSPT you could get a spiral leak down the thread.
NPT = 60Deg thread and 18TPI
BSPT = 55Deg thread and 19TPI

I used this guid for getting my WC system parts great guide.

[TonyL222]

VERY NICE and well written. I am especially impressed with your even handed discussion of "Kits". Refreshing not to see the usual "don't use kits" which gets repeated just about everywhere.

I'm not in 100% agreement on everything - particularly the discussion of full cover gpu blocks - but it's an excellent read for novice and vet.

[BabyGorilla]

AWESOME thread!

Sticky anyone?

[propaintball]

God ddayaamm....Anyone else actualy read the whole of that?!

[ricecrispi]

Originally Posted by stonk

The only thing i noticed was this "3/8" BSPT/NPT" it is actually 3/8 BSPT not NPT.
There is a difference in threads and if you use NPT as apposed to BSPT you could get a spiral leak down the thread.
NPT = 60Deg thread and 18TPI
BSPT = 55Deg thread and 19TPI

I used this guide for getting my WC system parts great guide.

I'm changing fittings part slightly and adding links to that section.

Water blocks Threading and Fittings by Exa XS forums

Barb Sizes Explained by coolmiester coolercases.co.uk



- G / BSPP / NPSM threads are the same just different name.

-NPT and BSPT are not the same as above.
-BSPT and NPT are not the same


Also changed complete parts List and some price ranges so they are a little lower and easier to read with links as well.