First Chiller

[utnorris]

What anti freeze do you recommend? Any that are not green? What about g-11?

[dooglo]

I'm curious. How or what are you attaching to the cpu, vga, etc... Do you have pics of that. I'd like to see.

[utnorris]

Mt current system. The chiller will probably just replace the rads and fans.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=194398&page=3

I may however, mount the mb and everything on top of the chiller, haven't decided yet. Once I finish the chiller's box I will have a better idea if I want to do an open air system or not.

[Drewmeister]

Originally Posted by utnorris

What anti freeze do you recommend? Any that are not green? What about g-11?

Prestone Dex-Cool, it has an orange.

[utnorris]

Ok, Drewmeister, another question for you, you mentioned I should seal the sides of the rad to force water through the fins, can I use the liquid foam insulation for this? Also, have you ever used a Pentek filter like this one:

http://www.petrastechshop.com/peinwafi.html

I was wondering how often it would be needed to be changed and if it was any good.

Thanks

[Drewmeister]

I think that great stuff foam will breakdown over time. I wouldn't use any sealers in there, the seal doesn't need to be 100%. Just cut a couple strips of brass or copper and screw them on using those little mounting tabs on the evaporator. Ace Hardware or just about any hobby store should have small sheets of this. I can cut you some to exact specs out of aluminium if you want... just cover postage.

[utnorris]

Originally Posted by Drewmeister

I think that great stuff foam will breakdown over time. I wouldn't use any sealers in there, the seal doesn't need to be 100%. Just cut a couple strips of brass or copper and screw them on using those little mounting tabs on the evaporator. Ace Hardware or just about any hobby store should have small sheets of this. I can cut you some to exact specs out of aluminium if you want... just cover postage.

Again, you are awesome and I appreciate the offer. I will probably just cut some myself, I thought about using some scrap acrylic, but I am afraid that would crack over time due to low temps. I have some aluminum and other sheet type metal laying around, I will see if it fits. I need to take some new pics of my progress, I am still deciding on what to use for making the box, aluminum or acrylic. I think I can get some smoked acrylic for free, so probably that. Anyway, thanks again for the help.

On a side note, if I did want to use six San Ace fans to cool the condenser, would that be enough? I probably won't since I already have the original fan in place, but I thought about entertaining the idea. Any thoughts on this?

[Drewmeister]

Thanks.. glad to help out. Don't use bare aluminium.. the stuff I have is electrostatically painted so doesn't add to anymore galvanic corrosion and the paint doesn't breakdown. Acrylic should be fine down to -20c.

What size fans and how many cfm are they rated for?

[utnorris]

I have 120mm Sanyo Denki San Ace 109R1212H1011, 102CFM. They are 12v fans, so I would have to set up something for them. I also have either 4 or 6 Papst 4112 N/2H fans, not sure what the CFM is on those, but I am sure it is in the same range as the San Ace fans. And I also have Sanyo Denki Mini Ace 32 92mm fans, model 109P0912H2011, my best guess is that they are between 92 to 100cfm.

[Drewmeister]

I'm pretty sure that stock a/c fan with speed reduction would be quieter than just one of those 102cfm fans. Yes you can use those little beasts, they'll need some huge speed reduction... may only need a 5v psu. You should use a shroud spaced out about 1". I have plenty of scrap aluminium so if you need one LMK.

[utnorris]

Ok, thanks a million. I really appreciate it. I have to fix a couple things first and load test it also. I ran into a leak today in my res. I had bolted the cooler to the board and thought I had sealed it well, well I was wrong, so I now have to go back and reseal it. Anyway, once I get the box made I will be able to test it out for noise.
Thanks again,
Utnorris

Additional Comment:

Ok Drewmeister, I ran my first test and it shuts off at 58f ends up dropping to 56f. This is with a a pump and CPU block running in a loop. I used a TEC to give it a load and after about 20 minutes it hadn't moved past 58f. Of course the TEC isn't the best in the world, so it wasn't a real world test. I have my materials to build my case, so that will start tomorrow and once it is built I will be able to test it with my system under full load. With a HD4870x2, QX9650 oc'd to 4.2Ghz, mosfets, NB and SB I am guessing it will turn on every 20 minutes or so and maintain a 58-60f temp.

Now for a quick question, if I wanted to pull the control module out of it, could I just connect an on/off switch in line with the compressor and fan? If so, how would I wire it? Any ideas? Or should I look at an actual control module?

Thanks, very excited about this.

[utnorris]

Thanks alot. Hopefully it will be done this week.

Additional Comment:

Ok, here are some images of my case that I am building. I am also going to try and use the smaller cooler. We will see how that tuns out. Anyway, the idea behind the chiller case is that it will be big enough for me to put my MB and other equipment right on top. That way I will have an open MB tray I can easily swap items out of and eliminate having two cases.

[Drewmeister]

You can remove the module and just wire in an aftermarket thermostat to cycle the compressor and fan... a switch by itself is a bad idea. Digital t-stats range from $50-$65.. I have a mechanical t-stats here for a fraction of that... pm me.

You're shortchanging the performance with that 56F cutofff, you really should change that t-stat. The humidity in your home will be much less in the winter months so you might want to take advantage of it if pushing your hardware. Use a hygrometer to measure the humidity in your room and then calculate dew point with this chart. Stay at or 2c above dew point with decent airflow in case. I have 23% humidity atm so I could be operating at 0c.

That's one heck of a case you're building for this unit.

Any Updates?

[utnorris]

Here are some new pics. I am still finishing the top, it will be a 3 piece top and I need to install the front with a cut out for the condenser.

[Drewmeister]

I take it you used jb weld to seal the hole for the tubing? I hope it's enough to hold up to the vibration from the compressor. As an added measure to protect against a leak... you may want to slip a heavy duty trash bag over the outside of the reservoir and attach with black duct tape.

Where are you adding the air inlet for the condenser?

Great work!

[utnorris]

I will be adding 120mm Fan holes along the top, one positioned directly over the compressor with a fan blowing air straight down on it. To seal the tubing hole I first used installation foam and then liquid rubber over that which flexes with vibrations. The nice thing about the way I mounted the pump was with shock absorbers to minimize vibrations. I will run it for 24 hours once I get everything setup to check for leaks. It would suck if I got a leak after I installed it in my computer room, but I think I will be fine. I may put a pan under it just to be on the safe side.

[Bloody Grin]

Lookin' good man.

[utnorris]

Thanks. Made some progress tonight and my control module comes in tomorrow thanks to Drewmeister. I will hopefully finish this next week on my days off since I work the weekends.

Additional Comment:

Here are the images Drewmeister:

[Drewmeister]

I have editted the wiring diagram to make things simple. You'll need to get a 15A inline fuse holder with fuse and a 15A SPST switch. Radio Shack or Ace Hardware will have these. You only need low speed/orange... the red wire should be capped.

I didn't add the speed controller because it might not be a good idea to restrict airflow with it inside the enclosure. You'll first have to test it out under load in worst case ambient temp conditions and check liquid line temp, compressor temps, sound levels and of course performance.

[utnorris]

So the original power cable has a fuse/safety breaker built into it at the plug side. If it is 15 amps or better, can I use it?

Additional Comment:

Also, do I disregard the extra lines on the cap or do I still run the white from the wall plug to the "C" on the cap and disconnect the extra red line that went to the PCB? I am thinking I need to use the white, but lose the red to the PCB (not the red to the compressor). That make sense?

Thanks

Additional Comment:

I think I answered my own question, just confirm it for me please. White will run from wall to module and cap. The extra red on the "C" on the cap will be discarded with the PCB.