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Old 03-18-2009, 01:52 AM   #21
Jarrow
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More frost/condensation pics



OUCH! Not only frost.. but can you see the debri in the block... that is the problem with using the reservoir water... might make a copper coil to place in the reservoir... do you think it will run as cool that way?



This is my workshop where I keep the ac chiller... pipes run into the office on the other side of the wall... keeps the office quiet. How much cooler do you think the cpu will get if I insulate the lines?



Lines comming from tool room with shutoff valves.
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Old 03-18-2009, 07:01 AM   #22
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As I said before, use a normal watercooling radiator, or a heater core (i think that's the word? the small radiator in cars for the heating system), and drop it into your reservoir.

If you use a normal watercooling radiator you might want to peel off that thick paint. I know somebody here did it but I can't remember who did it?
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Old 03-18-2009, 10:16 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagoshi View Post
...use a normal watercooling radiator, or a heater core (i think that's the word? the small radiator in cars for the heating system), and drop it into your reservoir.

Do you think I could use a variable speed pump to control the temp?

I would really like to control the compressor though.
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Old 03-18-2009, 10:22 AM   #24
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I don't know if a controllable pump would allow you to "control" the temps. I would suppose that "yes it would", but I am really not sure.

You can't control the compressor? Wouldn't the "original box" control it? I guess you could hack the controls back on the compressor and put it at max chill, if you can.
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:55 PM   #25
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Hey Jarrow,

Nice job with this project, that reservoir is ingenious.

You can prevent all that debris from getting into your waterblocks by using an inlet filter on the pump. No need for copper coil or submerged heater core.. just get a filter. Yes.. get your mobo, waterblocks and tubing insulated before it's too late. It's also a good idea to waterproof the back of the video card incase water drips down. I also use a folded paper towel on the video card just for added safety. You can use the a/c's thermostat to control temps to around 63F.. then have a switch that bypasses the t-stat to take the temps to max lowend. Post a pic of the wiring to the t-stat and I'll show you how to do it.

Get that reservoir sealed airtight asap to help reduce the amount of methanol from evaporating and to keep air/moisture, biological growths, etc out. You may or may not need to use washer fluid.. depends on temp range and the strength of your pump. You should add some anti-corrosion additive to the washer fluid or just mix in some Zerex.

Just probe between the +12v pins and COM on the back of the 24 pin power connector. The pin layout will be in the instructions for your psu. I believe the +12v rails would be pins 10&11. There are several COM pins.. one of them being pin 24.

These taylor Indoor/outdoor thermometers are pretty accurate and read down to -50c. http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-1450-In.../dp/B0001U6RJM


Pumps: http://www.aquatictech.com/pumps.html
The mags come with inlet filters

Filters and parts: http://www.aquariumconnection.com/tw...lacement+Parts

Some info on how I condensate proofed my mobo: http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...4&postcount=33 Read some of the other posts too.

Here's a pic of a mobo sealed up nicely with the eraser stuff.
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Last edited by Drewmeister : 03-21-2009 at 01:56 PM. Reason: oops, 63F not C
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Old 03-18-2009, 11:49 PM   #26
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Just a quick word of advice from my experience, if you read my thread you will see where I used the liquid rubber to try and seal my res and what happened was that once it reached 0c the liquid rubber became brittle and began cracking and breaking off. I seriously would just go by a $16 Rubbermaid 12 can cooler from Ace Hardware. It will save you a lot of headaches.

As far as the Gigabyte Extreme and it's water block, it is actually pretty good. I was running one (now selling) and tried out the block. It kept the NB and everything attached to it nice and cool, especially the mosfets, which get very hot. Only thing is that it is a 3/8" fitting, so keep that in mind. Oh, and before you ask why I am selling it, I decided I wanted the Blood Rage.
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Old 03-20-2009, 12:33 AM   #27
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Thank you everyone for your great input!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by utnorris View Post
I seriously would just go by a $16 Rubbermaid 12 can cooler from Ace Hardware. It will save you a lot of headaches.

The reason I made the smaller reservoir was to be able to keep the whole chiller contained in the original AC case.... more compact. I would actually like to make it even smaller but will probably just build my next one instead.

I just made some samples of the liquid plastic and will stick them in the freezer tomorrow to see how brittle they are... so far no leaks on my reservoir and it has been below zero quite a bit.

Anyway... the un-insulated wood/liquid plastic sealed reservoir I made was just a quick fix so I could get the thing running.. I was in a hurry. I think I will make a new one out of tin with the corners sealed with a special very flexible caulk surrounded about 1 1/2" of Hilti brand closed cell foam insulation... that way I can still keep everything in the original case.
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Old 03-20-2009, 04:37 PM   #28
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beware of caulk at low temps. I spent a ton of time making a pot, and made the mistake of sealing it with caulk. Drew pointed out my mistake, so it's sitting in my room, unusable. He recommended using JB weld for stuff like this.

Additional Comment:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewmeister View Post
You can use the a/c's thermostat to control temps to around 63c.
Sorry drew, gotta point out this one!

Last edited by eligray : 03-20-2009 at 04:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 03-20-2009, 07:27 PM   #29
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Sounds good. Let me know what you find works the best. My next one I do I will probably build from scratch and I will probably fabricate the res also.

Looks good and nice temps, get it insulated and see how far you can go.
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:15 AM   #30
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The liquid plastic spray samples were very soft after being placed in my freezer... pretty much as soft and flexible as they were at rooms temps.

I might buy some dry ice today from Wal-Mart and see how they do at that temp.

Additional Comment:

Liquid plastic in dry ice was a little more stiff... but not brittle.

Also... I sprayed 4 coats (per directions) on the back of an old video card... pealed off nicely the next day!

They also have a product that you brush on... or what ever way you want to apply it... like dipping tool handles in it... it is drying in my garage... looks like that is a faster way to do it... one quick coat... I will let you know how that goes.

Traded my Gigabyte EX58-UD3R in for an EVGA X58-SLI... having a hard time overclocking it. A guy on the EVGA forums was helping with that... he said that the EVGA board is totally manual... so things like the cpu vtt voltage has to to be set as well... learning new stuff... kind of a pain though.

So... I'm holding off on insulating my MB until I can get it at least up to 4ghz.

I'm pretty sure this EVGA MB is ok... lots of other people seem to do ok with it... but the bios in the Gigabyte was a breeze to get to 4.2!

Additional Comment:

Insulated now and 4.4ghz... I hate the EVGA board though... the Gigabyte was much easier to overclock.




Just noticed that high voltage regulator temp!

Ouch!

When I insulated my board... I kind of went overboard (maybe?)... the mosfets on the EVGA board are cooled by heat pipes connected to metal fins... like a standard cpu air cooler... when I insulated... I molded the art eraser around the mosfets and the heat pipes... do you think this could be causing the high VREG temps?

On the EVGA forums they say high temps for the VREG are normal (in the 60*c-70*c range) But none of the members are running as high of a vcore as I am... I need 1.55v to get to 4.4ghz prime95 stable... my core temps are still in the low 40*c range under load... what do you think?

My VREG is at 62*c with no load... EVGA forums are reporting in the mid to high 50*c range.

Last edited by Jarrow : 03-27-2009 at 05:17 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 03-27-2009, 07:07 AM   #31
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For load, use LinX or OCCT Linpack test. It's going to toast your chip and stress it MUCH MORE than Prime95
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Old 03-27-2009, 11:14 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagoshi View Post
For load, use LinX or OCCT Linpack test. It's going to toast your chip and stress it MUCH MORE than Prime95
When I use OCCT is won't test... says my cpu is too hot... lol 3*c?
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Old 03-27-2009, 11:37 AM   #33
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Go in settings and try to change the max temp number.

It might also be because you are too low for the probe software
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Old 03-28-2009, 02:18 AM   #34
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Your Vreg is going to get hot on the EVGA board due to the high voltage that you are doing. You need to either place a fan directly on the heatsink or replace the heatsink with a water block. The problem that most water coolers don't think about is that the mosfets/VR's were designed to be cooled by the cpu fan, which ia no longer there, so you have to either water cool them or use a fan directly on them to keep them cool. I would shoot to keep the temps below 75c.

Looks good, show some more pics.
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Old 04-01-2009, 03:16 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utnorris View Post
Your Vreg is going to get hot on the EVGA board due to the high voltage that you are doing. You need to either place a fan directly on the heatsink or replace the heatsink with a water block. The problem that most water coolers don't think about is that the mosfets/VR's were designed to be cooled by the cpu fan, which ia no longer there, so you have to either water cool them or use a fan directly on them to keep them cool. I would shoot to keep the temps below 75c.

Looks good, show some more pics.
Ordered my vreg waterblock yesterday

I will try to update this thread today with more pics.
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Old 04-01-2009, 03:54 PM   #36
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This stuff is so neat to watch!
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Old 04-01-2009, 04:49 PM   #37
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Let me get this straight. You took a ac unit and disassembled it. Took the cool plate and submerged it in a liquid reservoir. You attached lines to it, and pump that cooled water throughout your PC?

How loud is it if your next to it?

I'm JUST geting into water cooling and this wekend shall build my first build ^_^
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Old 04-01-2009, 05:09 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick911 View Post
Let me get this straight. You took a ac unit and disassembled it. Took the cool plate and submerged it in a liquid reservoir. You attached lines to it, and pump that cooled water throughout your PC?

How loud is it if your next to it?
Well... I am buy no means the first... search the forum... you will see a lot of them. Drewmeister has a great thread on his:
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...d.php?t=101902

I think utnorris has has a thread too.

It is as loud as any ac would be... that's why mine is in a different room with lines running thru a wall... Quiet for me!

Last edited by Jarrow : 04-02-2009 at 01:43 AM.
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Old 04-01-2009, 05:57 PM   #39
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GOOD FREAKING LORD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MY HEAD HURTS AND ON PAGE 7!!

SHISH, I saw water cooling and decided hey I'll take a stab!! Now i see chillers and I'm liek GREAT, now I'm going to make one soon ^_^
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Old 04-10-2009, 11:52 AM   #40
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Here are some more pics:












My method of keeping the thermostat at max chill was to wrap the thermocoupler around the warm side of the condenser line


Liquid plastic sprayed back side of mother board



1/4" armaflex pad on top of liquid plastic sprayed mother board... I would brush it next time... faster and thicker for easier removal.



Brushed on liquid plastic and dielectric grease... next time I will use petroleum jelly.






I can't say enough good things about the artist eraser moldable rubber... amazing to work with!








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