Project Snow flake

[boshuter]

You can use your guage set between the nitrogen regulator and the unit to check the pressure. Make sure you use the high side of the guage set to avoid damaging the low side guage. If the fitting on your regulator isn't what you need, go back to where you bought the regulator and tell them what you want. My regulator output port is the correct size to hook up to my guage set.

[flocko]

Originally Posted by boshuter

You can use your gauge set between the nitrogen regulator and the unit to check the pressure. Make sure you use the high side of the gauge set to avoid damaging the low side gauge. If the fitting on your regulator isn't what you need, go back to where you bought the regulator and tell them what you want. My regulator output port is the correct size to hook up to my gauge set.

Ok ... so let me say this in a different way than you and see if you agree

Pressure test though high side only and leave the low side alone and keep low side gauge closed /unhooked?

I think after further evaluation ... I am wrong about the out put size on the Nitrogen regulator. Before I go off "half cocked" I'm going to wait for my new gauge set to come in . Should be here the end of this coming week at the latest and new JB vacuum pump is coming Monday .

Next week end is going to be VERY interesting.

Oh... bye the way . PASSED MY 608 Type 1 certification

[boshuter]

Yes.... hook your yellow hose to the regulator and use the high side (red) hose to hook to the unit. Leave the low side (blue) hose unhooked.

Once you are hooked up, open the manifold high side valve all the way. Use the nitrogen regulator to control how much pressure you put into the system. Once you get to the pressure you want, leave the nitrogen regulator set there and leave the high side manifold valve open for 20-30min to make sure the system is all up to pressure, then close the manifold valve. At this point you can close the valve on the nitrogen tank and remove the yellow hose from the nitrogen regulator if you want.

You may want to spray all the hose connections both on the system and the manifold to make sure you don't have a very small leak there.

Congrats on your test!

[flocko]

Thanks a lot Bo ! Bet more than a ton of folks have chased leaks in equipment thinking it was in there system. Thanks

Well .. AAAWWW , aint they cute !! Bouncing baby twins . Well not really. Hey , I'm happy my pump and nitro cylinder are in order and ready to go . Really impressed with the pump and think the extra $20 over the Robinair was worth it . Thanks for the good advice Drew

Am I gonna take pictures when my new Yellow Jacket gauges come in ?? You **** skippy I am !! This is fun !

[Drewmeister]

Since you didn't purge while brazing I would recommend doing a quick evac to remove some of the oxide deposits first. Pressurizing first might force the oxide deposits into the compressor. You could blow the piping out with nitrogen from each access valve with the orifice removed too. Evac with the valve cores removed then pressurize. Check all brazed joints, flares, orings, etc with leak detection solution. If ok then go ahead a triple evac.. I recommend leaving the valve cores out for the first two evacs then put back in for final pulldown. Leave a few psi in the system when putting them back so no air gets in.

You'll need at least one charging valve so you can get the high side hose off without loosing refrigerant. That can be in the form of a core removal tool(get two), charging valve or core depressor valve. The lowside you can spin off fast with unit at a low positive suction pressure.

You need to oil up the tip of the orifice assembly. I put a small film of oil on the threads and metal o-ring too. Make sure the metal o-ring stays in it's groove while tightening it. Use a backup wrench on the valve body and torque to 28ft/lbs. Don't forget to leak check that seal.

I made a wiring diagram for you.. it isn't pretty but I'm sure it will do the job. You might want to add a second switch to balance the look of the front better. You would probably add it on the input side of the auxilary psu to control lighting or something.

Congrats on getting certified!

[flocko]

My, my, my ....what an informative post !!! Whew !
this is like two thirds of the entire project . Thanks Drew !!

I'll start with my original question and if you have answered it and I missed it then that means it went over my head which is not hard to do.

#1 The end of the yellow hose on charging gauges that does not hook to gauges has a shrader plunger in it. My nitro cylinder has no shrader valve in it. You said not to remove it so my output on nitro would be blocked by the plunger. Do I braze a shrader valve onto nitro out put ?

#2 I would really prefer to buy what will do the job the best not really the cheapest as these tools will be used for future builds. So what will serve me best and how many will make the job the EASIEST ?

http://www.yellowjacket.com/images/p...-in-1-tool.jpg

http://www.yellowjacket.com/images/p...s/93830-48.jpg


The electrical diag. is actually quite good and serves the purpose. Couple of questions

#1 My run cap has two sets of three connectors . Does it matter which ones I use as long as I keep each three separate?

#2 The back connections of temp sensor are very small .. What gauge of wire to use since some holes have more than one wire ? Or just pig tail two wires into one?

Thanks on the 608 GRATS. It was harder than I thought it would be but gave me a good learning experience and mostly GOOD SAFETY practices and how to be protective of our environment . I feel very stongly about that in a positive way

Note : Just edited the Yellow Jacket links above

Thanks Again

[Drewmeister]

Charging:
#1 There will be flow around the core depressor... reverse the hose if you have to.

#2 You really don't have enough equiptment or production atm to have a need for anything fancy. The main thing you need right now is a way of removing the hoses safely from a fully charged unit with the least amount of refrigerant loss. I would just get one or two core depressor valves for now.. then add to your tools as needed. These are around $6 ea at Johnstone part # H24-849 Grab an extra hose for the vacuum gauge too. If you don't mind spending $100-$150 then buy 2 x core removal tools w/ access ports and 1 x charging valve.

Electrical:
#1 It doesn't matter which spade terminal you use as they are connected... just keep them separate from the other three.

#2 Use 16 gauge wire for this unit. Use white for neutral and black or red for hot.. obviously green for ground. You can fit two 16 gauge into the terminals on the t-stat if you want.

Use a 10-12 amp slow blow fuse.

Expect a sudden increase in views from search results now.

[flocko]

Drew :
I have decided to install the txv metering valve first . Then evac with shrader cores removed and then pressure test. Seems like the preferred method . Couple of questions

#1 Can I get a quicky guide to evac process? The instructions that came with the Supco gauge are vague at best. I do no that the left port is not mainly used for vacuum but for cleaning

#2 Do I need my manifold gauges? Wouldn't think so as why would you pull a vacuum though gauges. How much vacuum to pull just for an initial cleaning

See pics. below

Man OH man that John Stones is a dangerous place
A man could get really carried away there . The folks there set me up with an account . 25% off new account discount .... food !! drink!! and plenty of good conversation . Really "stand up" place and VERY polite people.

Thanks Drew for the John Stone advice

Yes... of course my "'hit" count is always going to go sky high when I'm getting the kind of information you can't pay money for

[blinker0]

If you are doing a Vac @ first to clear debris Dont use the Vacume Guage.
1 Vac With hose directly Form Vac pump To service port (no Shrader valve) I like to use a splitter and Vac from both Suction and discharge lines for first vacuum. Then make sure you leave the system in a vacuum.

2 Pressurize With Nitrogen to at least 1 1/2 the intended high pressure. Let sit for a considerable amount of time to check for leaks and absorb moisture . No less than 1 hour, I like to let first Nitrogen charge for 24 hours ( record air temp when you charge it, And try to check at same temp for acuracy.

3 Release Nitrogen charge, just as you see the (or hear) that it is about 95% evacuated hook up vacuum pump And Vac again for a considerable amount of time @ least 1 hour perferrably longer if you arent doing a Triple vacuum.

3b if you are doing a triple vacuum . After you have Vacuumed for at least 1 hour, Break with nitroger to 1 psi and let set for @ least 1 hour. Repeat Step 3 for atleast 1 hour Then break with nitrogen again to 1 psi let sit for 1 hour Then do final vacuum. Let set for atleast 30 min Before charging.

You ask final vacumm . If your pump will do 500 microns Shoot for that. If not Vacuum longer periods of time and if possibe alternate between High and low sides to prevent vacuum lock. Probably wont happen but you worked hard so far Why not spend the time on the final steps..Good luck

[flocko]

Thanks Blinker for the post .

Question . At #1 paragraph you state to "make sure you leave the system in a vacuum"... how ? If vacuum direct from pump and shrader cores removed I will loose vacuum as soon as I move the yellow pump hose to the nitro cylinder? Or are you using charging Gauges / manifold to prevent this?

I'm sure the stupid questions are a pita but I have never done this and don't want to screw it up

On another note: I have my site glass and am ready to braze in between filter/dryer and txv . Plan on wet ragging the glass as Teybor had a heck of a time with his first one .
One end of the glass has a yellow protector nipple and other end has a gray one . Does it matter which end faces in a paticular direction ? Or does the valve flow bidirectional . Looks like there is a "snap off" line on the stubs..... assuming that is to be cut off ?

[blinker0]

http://www.comfortgurus.com/product_...oducts_id/5421
This is what you are looking for Shrader valve removal tool with access port and ball valve. To vaccuum remove core removal part . And connect your hoses to it. When you finish your vacuum Close ball valve on tool. Johnstone supply has these too. Get two if you can one for High and low side.

As fo your sight glass some are directional some arent do you have a link/ model # or a pic?

FYI there are no stupid Questions.. But sometimes we get stupid awnsers

[flocko]

Here you go with the pic of sight glass. Sporlan SA-12s

Yes ... If you look a few posts back Drew felt those $45 EACH!! were not necessary. So , well... kinda lost
Suppose everyone has an opinion and I really appreciate yours as well!!

[blinker0]

I dont believe those are directional. If they are remove the top protective cap and see if there is a direction arrow. If not its most likely not directional and can be installed either way. Or if one of the connectors is higher than the other the higher one is the supply.

As far as the core removal tool As long as you get one that is for replacement it will have a ball valve and that will work also. I like the ones with the service port to add Vacuum guage to. Both will work fine

[flocko]

The lines on the sight glass are level. No directional arrow anywhere. I'll take that as it is bidirectional.

Thanks Blinker... Thanks a lot

[flocko]

Not exactly the productive weekend I thought I was going to have . Ran over to Jone Stone supply Saturday morning to pick up a few remaining things like charge valve ONLY to find they are not open on Saturday. Thirty minute ride each way for nothing

I did manage to get the sight glass installed and cold raging the glass was the ticket . Very tiny, tiny oxidation and the salts still rattle when I tap on the glass. I think high heat and a very fast braze is the ticket here. To low and prolonged heat would destroy the glass chemical.

Also installed the orifice to the txv and I'm ready for a preliminary cleaning vacuum after another trip to the J.S. for core removal tools and an adapter "T" for the pump. Will order ES-12a refrigerant tonight most likely.

[blinker0]

Looking very good there.
Sight glasses and shutoff valves can be tricky till you do a couple. I use Kooljel When I braze sensitive components Its a little messy but cleans up well with water. Cold rags work too I have also used a Ice cube in the wet rag And sit the Ice cube on the glass its self But you have to use very high heat and work quickly.

[flocko]

Back to J.S. to day . Picked up the two core removal tools and some extra fittings for vacuum pump . Not the prettiest set up on the pump but best I could do. This gives me ability to hook both vacuum lines and a gauge to the pump at on time. Need mirror for leak detecting and I'm READY to go.

What cha think? Will it work?

Thanks all!!

P.S. Thanks Blinker .... never heard of Kooljel ? The ice cube deal sounds good as well.

[blinker0]

Few more trips to J.S and you'l Be in the big leagues Those are decent pumps Should do you well. If you end up doing many builds those core removal tools you will learn to love them..

[flocko]

Originally Posted by blinker0

Few more trips to J.S and you'l Be in the big leagues Those are decent pumps Should do you well. If you end up doing many builds those core removal tools you will learn to love them..

Ya ... either in the big leagues or in the poor house!!
There not Yellow Jacket but at $28 each there a dam site cheaper!

Pulling the first cleaning vac down now and will get a nitro test tonight for leaks
Wish me well !

[blinker0]

I have the same core removers.. Had them for years. and have had alot of hookups on them They will serve you well..

Good luck The hard work will start paying off soon