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Old 09-05-2010, 11:10 AM   #1
blinker0
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12,000 BTU Compressor

I have a new compressor (Rotory) From a new damaged window A/C unit. Is this overkill for a SS phase unit.

Computer it was intended for Crunches WCG the entire time it is on

Running a Xeon 3580 Clocked to 4.6 mhz 1.32v HT on

Condensor is one of Drews Cubes with two SOYO 110CFM fans in push pull config
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:53 AM   #2
boshuter
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That's a lot of compressor for a single stage Would be awesome as first stage compressor in a cascade though...... that being said, I see nothing wrong with using it in a single stage, I'm a firm believer in large rotary compressors in single stage units.

That single cube condenser is is not enough for that compressor, you would be better off stacking two of them, or use the condenser that came from the window ac.

If you run that on a crunching setup, you will see very significant gains.... mostly in your electric bill

If you decide it's too large, I've got a new 9000btu rotary I'd swap you for it, I'd love to have a 12k to use in a cascade. I've also got a larger condenser that you might be interested in.
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Old 09-05-2010, 12:31 PM   #3
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Yeah electric bill would suffer.. It doesnt run 24/7 I have other machines farmed for 24/7 w/c cooled.
I have a larger condensor but in this case i would have to place it horizontal Which isnt no big deal as it is configured for that use. but would have to mount it on top of case to do that.
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:14 PM   #4
Drewmeister
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A 1hp rotary is fine for a single stage unit. Of course the power consumption, heat dump and sound levels may be an issue. The sound levels and heat dump can be greatly reduced but there's really no getting around the power consumption part. If the power consumption isn't an issue then I would go for it.

As Bo mentioned, you'll be needing a bit more condenser. Two stacked cubes in series will work fine using just 1 x 110 cfm puller fans each, use 130's for r410a. The thickness of the cubes will attenuate a large portion of the noise from a rotary compressor inside a case. You can use a large a/c condenser too.

Not all compressors will perform the same in a low back pressure application. Preferably you'll want a Matsu$hita, LG or Samsung. Tecumsehs don't have much capacity at LBP.
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Old 09-06-2010, 12:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blinker0 View Post

Running a Xeon 3580 Clocked to 4.6 mhz 1.32v HT on

That would be a lot of power consumption for only 4.60 Megahertz
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Old 09-06-2010, 04:51 PM   #6
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Guess I would have to see if it would go higher then Have had this chip to five with 1.39v but current phase bites the dust and Goes over 0c any higher than it is currently running...

It was just a thought

Additional Comment:

Compressor ROT(806-934-42E),SANYO This is the compressor model #

Additional Comment:

Or could build it as a bencher

Last edited by blinker0 : 09-06-2010 at 04:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:57 PM   #7
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The Sanyo should be ok. A strong SS is an indispensable tool for benching. I would go ahead and get some more experience with this next SS build. You can always tear it down for a cascade.
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Old 09-06-2010, 09:18 PM   #8
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Wouldnt hurt to try it.. I have all the stuff.. May give it a go
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Old 09-07-2010, 11:37 AM   #9
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Blinker, if you are on the market for a lineset PM me, I have a used one from my first build, it is in great condition (all brazes were pretty clean, kept free of dust). It is from under-the-ice, and I am looking to sell it, as I have access to all fab tools I want (engineering school does that to you )
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:23 PM   #10
flocko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blinker0 View Post
Guess I would have to see if it would go higher then Have had this chip to five with 1.39v but current phase bites the dust and Goes over 0c any higher than it is currently running...

It was just a thought

Additional Comment:

Compressor ROT(806-934-42E),SANYO This is the compressor model #

Additional Comment:

Or could build it as a bencher

Do it man... do it !

Going to keep an eye on this . Promise us lot's of pics
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Old 09-07-2010, 06:17 PM   #11
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Question is? Is the acuumulator on the compressor big enough. Or will it keep the lowside in a vacuum. Even with the high side pressures being correct.. Guess we will find out.. I will start on it this weekend..

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Blinker, if you are on the market for a lineset PM me, I have a used one from my first build, it is in great condition (all brazes were pretty clean, kept free of dust). It is from under-the-ice, and I am looking to sell it, as I have access to all fab tools I want (engineering school does that to you )
Thanks But I have a Chilly1 spiral and 4' lineset with 12'' of .042 captube sitting here.

Last edited by blinker0 : 09-07-2010 at 06:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 09-07-2010, 09:14 PM   #12
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The accumulator on the compressor should be enough to help prevent floodback, which is the purpose of them anyway. I usually fabricate another accumulator and coil the cap tube inside it for extra subcooling on any large rotary builds. It seems to help with capacity and there is virtually no worries about floodback.

Unless you have a huge load on that rotary, chances are it will run in, or very near a vacuum. To me that is one of the best reasons to use a big rotary. Many people try to say that it will kill the compressor if you run it in vacuum for long..... well I'm sure it's true that it will shorten the compressors life, but in my experience, that may just mean the compressor will only live 10 years instead of 15. I built a rotary single stage for a guy in Virginia that wanted it to cool a QX9650 that was only used in a system to play online chess.... believe it or not, this guy ran that system for 8-12hrs, 7 days a week just crunching numbers in a chess program. That single stage ran every day like that at -52c @ about 4-5hg vacuum, it is still running today and is around 4-5 years old, it's hard telling how much longer that compressor will run before it gives out. I can live with that kind of lifespan to get the kind of temps you can get by running in vacuum.

I hope you go ahead with this build..... there is nothing like a huge rotary for a killer single stage..... anyone saying they built a "benching" single stage and isn't running a rotary is just fooling themselves (or trying to fool someone else ).

Additional Comment:

Quote:
Originally Posted by blinker0 View Post
Question is? Is the acuumulator on the compressor big enough. Or will it keep the lowside in a vacuum. Even with the high side pressures being correct.. Guess we will find out.. I will start on it this weekend..

Additional Comment:



Thanks But I have a Chilly1 spiral and 4' lineset with 12'' of .042 captube sitting here.
I recommend asking Drew about getting one of Kayle's newer evaps. He has some that will handle a load much better than the Chilly evaps. The Chilly evaps are great, but they were designed back when 200w was a big load, the newer processors put out a lot more heat and better evaps are really needed. Evaps are the main limiting factor in these units anyway. Just a suggestion

Last edited by boshuter : 09-07-2010 at 09:14 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 09-07-2010, 09:26 PM   #13
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I also have one of Peters steppers.. But would love to try a Kyle evap.. I am going to build it But would take longer if I buy another evep.. Thay being said.. If I could find one quickly and afford it I would most certianly try it. Like I said the parts are here(well except a new evap)
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Old 09-07-2010, 09:36 PM   #14
boshuter
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I need a couple of evaps myself, just havent' got the funds to buy them at the moment.

Contact Drew, he usually has some of Kayles evaps on hand.
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Old 09-13-2010, 05:03 PM   #15
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I may have to use the Chilly but I can always change it out later.. This is a learning curve for me so.. But am going to yank the compressor and get started this weekend Go BIG or go home right?

Additional Comment:

Let Compressor drain for a few days May be able to start on this soon

Last edited by blinker0 : 09-13-2010 at 05:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:17 PM   #16
Drewmeister
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There should be approx 350cc in a rotary that size. If you can't get that much out then you'll need to drill a hole in the top of the compressor to remove it. There's really no need to change the oil though, unless of course it's contaminated or is POE that has been exposed to humid air for several hours. You can just add 5% r290 to AB or mineral for miscibility with refrigerants like r404a, r507, etc. You can replace what you have drained with fresh AB oil. AB isn't as hygroscopic as POE and can normally be pumped dry over time.

I have plenty evaps here and would gladly sell to you fellas at cost. PM me if you need anything.
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:52 PM   #17
boshuter
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I've had pretty good luck by drilling a 1/4" hole in the suction tube below the accumulator, the oil will just run right out without the accumulator stopping it. That tube is copper and I braze a service valve in after the oil is drained, that gives me a good place for a suction line service valve that isn't so prone to frosting up.

I've heard some compressors need to have a hole drilled in the top also, as Drew pointed out; The ones I've drained have mostly been LG and Matsu$hitas.

I'm needing evaps Drew, got enough parts sitting here for a couple of cascades and a single stage... just very short on funds for projects right now. Hopefully I'll get something going soon and will try to grab a couple of evaps from you.
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:56 PM   #18
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Thanks Drew. It has AB oil in it But the unit was damaged and opened to air for quite a while..Plus the guy I got it from ran it a few min's after it was damaged and blew out some oil.. So I figured go ahead and change it out.
I have got out 260cc out of it and by the looks of the unit pan you are probably right on the 350cc I figured replacing around 300 to 325. Sound about right?
I did drill the top and suction return 90 for drainage...

Also We are starting to use different material for vibration damper suction lines at work.. This stuff is amazing.. Cold working temp rated to -170 and working pressure of 500psi and is extremely flexible.. It is stainless with Stainless braid.. 3/8 id total outside id with braid is 5/8 which at work makes it nice as 5/8 insulation fits very snug but easy to seal at the ends.
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